AN UNUSUAL ANIMAL

Tasmanian Devil

Tasmania Devil Park is a delightful little park. Having only heard about the devil, I was anxious to see one.  There were three or four of them in an enclosure. It was fun to watch them run around and play.

A park guide told us, “The Tasmanian Devil is a wolverine-like animal extinct on the Australian mainland and found only in Tasmania. It is a carnivorous marsupial. The size of a small dog, black in color, it has a spine tingling screech. Its powerful jaws can crack bones so when feeding it can devour the entire animal. It is fearful rather than aggressive. A picture showing its teeth is usually a yawn rather than an aggressive act. Aggression is shown with loud noises.”

      Tasmanian Devils are synchronous breeders, mating in March, the babies are born in April/May. A female can have 6-8 pups, but she only has four nipples so only four pups can survive. The gestation period is only four weeks, but the pups suckle in the pouch for another six months. They generally live about five years. Inhabiting virtually all of Tasmania, they survive any and all climates, sleeping by day, and eating at night.

        Devils raiding poultry yards were a nuisance to early settlers . At one time there was a bounty offered for them  driving them to  remote areas. When protected in 1941, they had been hunted almost to extinction. The population has survived, and today is a healthy one.

The guide continued, “Although they have a reputation of killing sheep, they are rather inept killers, preying on small animals when they do kill. They prefer to scavenge, and are very good at it.  When under stress they produce a rather unpleasant odor, but when calm are not smelly but   rather tidy animals.”

    After watching the devils for awhile we strolled off and came upon a park guide who was holding an animal neither of us had ever seen.

It turned out to be Lilly, a baby wombat, who was just as cute as can be. About 18 months old she was still small enough to be held in a caretaker’s arms.

We were told, “Wombats grow to about the size of a pig, and they can do a lot of damage to a car if one is unlucky enough to hit one on the road. They burrow. See how their front and back claws are different. They dig with their front claws then throw the dirt back with the hind claws. A marsupial, they suckle in the pouch for six months, then stick around with mom for another twelve months. Related to the koala, wombats are vegetarians, and are nocturnal. In the wild they live 5-8 years, about 20 years in captivity. They have a hard steel-like back plate. When threatened, they head into their burrow, placing the hard plate at the entrance, which protects them, as nothing can penetrate it.”

Interesting animals indeed, and probably a couple we may never see again.

AN ANCIENT TEMPLE

                                             Jokhang Temple

This 1300-year-old temple is located in the oldest part of Lhasa, Tibet. What a cultural event! We saw  people walking around twirling prayer wheels and people chanting as they fingered prayer beads. Prayer beads contain 108 beads and the chant sounds like Om Mani Padme Hum which in Tibetan refers to the precious pearl on Buddha, the red water hill, and a clean heart to take me home.

            Seeing the throngs of pilgrims was a peek into a totally different culture. Outside the temple were two prayer poles covered with prayer scarves and prayer flags. On each side of the temple huge incense burners belched smoke. The aroma of incense permeated the whole city.

            Our Tibetan guide explained, “Tibetans pray with their thumbs inside the palms with palms together. Then they touch the forehead for mind, the lips for speech and the chest for the body. The motion is quick from forehead, to lip, to chest.”

            We observed many outside the temple prostrating themselves to Buddha. Shoes were removed. Women tied their skirts. After doing the prayer bit they fell to their knees, usually on a mat, put their hands palm down on pads and slid forward  flat onto the pad. That was repeated over and over. Later when walking the square we saw pilgrims prostrating themselves every few steps. People paid no attention and simply walked around them.

            The main gate of the temple faces west toward Nepal. The door fronts of the inner chapel date to the 7^th century. In 1950 Red Guards shelled and ransacked the temple. Part of the damage has been restored. The present temple dates to the 17^th century.

            As we walked clockwise around the inner of three halls we passed long long lines of pilgrims waiting to put yak butter into various burning candles and to peek into the many small chapels that were off the hall. We were told it was not uncommon to take 4-5 hours to complete the circuit.

            Large metal vats of of yak candles with 5-6 wicks the size of my little finger burned all over the temple. Many find that aroma offensive, so we all took the advice of our guide and used the tiger balm under our nose we’d purchased at the herb market. However, I found the incense aroma a lot more troublesome.

            It was very dark, dank and damp inside the temple. Wall paintings depicted Tibetan history. The inner hall murals date to 1648, while the murals on the outer walls are 19^th century.

            Large baskets, bigger than a bushel basket, filled with money, were located in many areas in the temple. Most of the bills were small, but people could make any donation that they desired. We were assured  that no one would steal money from the temple. In 2001 Jokhard Temple was designated a UNESCO site. Some restoration has taken place since then.

            Originally it was undecided where to build the temple. Some high priest threw a gold ring which landed on a sand bar in a swampy area. This was considered a good omen. Goats carried dirt in baskets to fill in the swamp so the temple that was originally called the goat dirt temple.

            Eventually we worked our way around to the 7^th century golden Buddha for which the temple was built. I was actually glad to see sunlight as we left the temple.

            Surrounding the Jokhang Temple is the Barkhor Baazar. Most of the venders and hawkers displayed the same merchandise. Prayer wheels, prayer beads, jewelry (junk) and small brass objects dominated the marketplace.

            This was an interesting visit. One I’m glad I did as it gave me a better understanding into another culture and religion.

FUN TRIVIA

Useful Trivia

            Traveling around it is always nice to know where the American Embassy is located. Absolutely the ugliest one has got to be in Warsaw, Poland. One had to wonder who the architect was for that big concrete box. By now I surely hope the stars and stripes are flying in front of a more appropriate building.

            The most beautiful American embassy is in Australia’s capitol, Canberra, where major public buildings are built on low knolls around the lake. One exception is the ten acres the US embassy sits on. Australia deeded this land to the US for our help in World War II. The embassy is the largest and sits on the highest knoll. All of the red bricks in the colonial building were imported from the United States.

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            England has a creative smart idea of putting clean well supplied restrooms in their carparks. You always know where you’ll find a ‘loo’ as the Brits say. They are stand-alone buildings. Wonderful

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We looked out the airport window on Kangaroo Island in Australia to see several small planes lined up with EMU written on their tails. A gal standing beside me said, “Who would name an airline after a flightless bird?”

We were weighed with our packs and then led out over the tarmac to two small planes. I remarked, “Well I think I’d rather fly back than take that ferry back across that rough channel.”

The pilot took our packs and stuffed them into the end of the wing.

The pilot placed the biggest fellow in the co-pilot seat. We were all seated and bucked up when we watched the pilot crawl up over the wing and through a window into the cockpit.

This seemed like a good alternative to the ferry?. What was I thinking?

A good part of the short flight was above the clouds. When I could looked down on the water, the white caps looked like wiggly little viruses look under a microscope. When over land the sheep in the pasture looked like little golf balls.

It was a smooth flight, but I was happy to have my feet on firm ground again.

A GORGEOUS CATHEDRAL

Yorkminster

York, England is on my list of places to return to, not only because it’s a fun interesting city but because of it fantastic cathedral of which we only had a cursory visit. Like Westminster and Salisbury one should pick up a docent to really appreciate the wonderful features of these churches.

 During a walking tour we walked around the outside of the cathedral as our local city  guide told us, “This cathedral is the fourth building on this site and was built in 1220 in stages until completion in 1472. It is the largest medieval structure in England and the largest Gothic church north of the Alps.”

            The Minster contains 128 stain   glass windows and one half of all the stain glass in England. John Thornton created the east window in 1405-08. It is the largest stain glass window in the world. Its 117 square panes represent 1680 square feet and is the equivalent size of a tennis court! It is truly a gorgeous window. Thornton’s work surely was a labor of love as his payment was 50 pounds.  The five sisters window, completed in 1260,  consists of five lancets, each of which is fifty feet high and five feet wide, and contains more than 100,000 pieces of glass. It.is the oldest window in the Minster.

            The Chapel house  built in 1280-90  contains fine carvings and medieval glass. The central tower of the 15th century is built in the perpendicular style. The original tower collapsed in 1407 and was rebuilt in the form of a lantern tower.

            The ceiling wood in the nave is painted to resemble stone, and it sure fooled me.  On one wall, 400 year old oak figures strike a charming clock every fifteen minutes. The clock movements date to 1749 and the clock needs to be wound every two days. The 15^th century screen is decorated with statues of fifteen kings from William I to Henry VI.

St.  Stephen's Chapel is dedicated to healing and peace.  A short healing service is held here at regular intervals. A portrait bust of Mother Teresa of Calcutta is in this chapel. It also houses a terracotta reredos (the decorative screen behind the altar) which depicts the first hour of the Crucifixion. 

Prince William of Hatfield's Tomb is the only royal tomb in Yorkminster. Although the tomb figure is that of a young boy, William, the son of Edward III, actually died as a baby. The tomb has been moved several times. It was placed here in 1979, in what is thought to be its original position.

There are two fonts in the Minster: a permanent one in the eastern crypt and a movable one in the nave. Traditionally a font is placed near the western door of a church to symbolize entry into the Christian faith.

            The 1291 nave, in  Decorated-Gothic style, is the widest Gothic nave in England. Nave is derived from the Latin navis, meaning a ship and compares the Church to a ship in which the faithful will be saved. The pulpit commemorates Archbishops Temple and Lang. The brass eagle lectern has been used for bible readings since 1686.

There are many points of interest within the magnificent Minster.   

HAVANA'S FORT

      A Tradition Continues

Castillo de San Carlos de la Cabana

In Havana, Cuba there is a nightly cannon ceremony at the old fort known as Castillo de San Carlos de la Cabana. Many years ago the cannon designated the nightly closing of the city’s gates at 9:00 PM. If one was not inside the walls by then he stayed outside until morning when the gates opened again.

The massive fortress, built 1764-1774, occupies 10 hectares on a hill at the north side of the Havana's harbor. It is a huge complex. It was dark when we arrived and walking was a bit hazardous. After we found our way to a good viewing area I mentioned to our guide, “Next time you might mention to your people to bring a flashlight so they can more easily see where they are walking. Some of that ground is pretty uneven and there is very little light.”

She thanked me for the suggestion. Dah! This was a pro who led such excursions frequently!

The castle was always heavily armed and by the mid 19^th century one could count 120 bronze cannons and mortars and a compliment of 1300 men. However, the garrison was designed to hold 6000 men if needed. Perhaps its sheer size was a deterrent, as the fortress never had to defend itself.

Today one passes by 18th century clad sentries guarding the moat bridge. Ten minutes before the hour there is a cry announcing the procession of costumed military men as they march across the plaza carrying muskets and flaming torches. They march to the cannon where they load and ram rod it ready for firing at exactly 9 PM.

The flash was quick and the noise loud when the cannon went off. It is a popular ceremony with hundreds attending nightly. We carefully walked down the ladder/stairs to the plaza below and after a short walk stopped to listen to musicians playing in front of the barracks.

It was a fun evening and at an interesting age-old evening event. 

ODDS AND ENDS KNOWN AS TRIVIA

Unimportant but Fun Tidbits

            In Texas, towns are spotted from a distance by their water towers. In much of Europe towns and villages are spotted by the church tower. The church is usually built on a hill and the tower generally is built on the west side of the church.

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When biking in Germany and Austria I was standing outside a coffee shop in the village of Aschach.  I had finished my lunch shopping and was admiring the houses that were painted in pastel colors in this little village. A little old man approached me, “Are you American?” he asked.

“Yes, I am.”

“I was in America once,” he said. “During World War II, I was a prisoner of war at Fort Smith, Arkansas. I’m sorry my English is not so good.”

How I wish I had had more conversation with this gentleman. I was just so shocked to learn that we had POW camps on American soil. He did tell me he was treated well.

It’s a small world!

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As we approached Land’s End we lost the trees and the landscape became quite barren. Land’s End is the most westerly point in England. The area has been turned into sort of an amusement area, but it’s one of those places that if you’re near you should at least take a look-see.

A friend and I walked down to the first and last point gift shop where I bought a couple of post cards.  There’s not a whole lot to see other than shops and some amusements for kids.

One of England’s rescue lifeboats was on display near the parking area. All men who operate the rescue boats are volunteers, and they are kept pretty busy at times.

It was very windy and I suspect it most always is. The coast is very rugged. Nasty waves were splashing over the rocks where the lighthouse stood as a steady warning to all who sailed those choppy seas along the  rocky coastline.

FOOD ALL DAY

Why Aren't the Dutch Heavy?

The Dutch are known to have ‘breakfast all day’. Their eating habits are quite traditional. At breakfast it is common to put hagelslag, chocolate sprinkles, on buttered toast. At 10:30 in the morning  coffee time  is observed everywhere. The strong coffee is  served in small cups. The time allotted to coffee is that given to a meal. The first coffee house  opened in the Hague and coffee was commercially introduced on a large scale in 1711 by the Netherlands East India Company.

At lunchtime one may have erwtensoep, pea soup, or bread with cheese or meat topped with a fried egg. At 4:00 PM  it’s time for afternoon tea which is served with gebak (pastry). Or small pancakes with butter and sugar, known as poffertjes, may also be served. Patat is a cone of french fries smothered in mayonnaise or a sauce.

At 5:00PM it is time for borrel. That’s a drink accompanied by nuts or cheese and crackers. Bitterballen are fried meatballs eaten with a pick after being dipped in mustard.

The traditional Dutch evening meal consists of vegetables, meat, chicken or fish and salad. This is followed with a milk dessert. Then coffee with pie or cake follows, and finally a drink of wine, beer, or liqueur.

After learning about Dutch food habits I thought most of the day was spent eating!

Whenever I have been in Holland I have eaten pretty much at normal times for me and enjoyed the cuisine. 

REYKJVIK RESPITE

        REYKJAVIK BOTANICAL GARDENS

            After exciting busy days on our last afternoon in Reykjavik the gal I was traveling with wanted to go shopping. I’m not a shopper, but never the less after three weeks I was shopped out.

            Our hotel room faced a park and taxis were easy to come by. I had observed what looked like people paying for a cab with a credit card. I left the hotel and approached one of the taxis. Sure enough he’d take a credit card---my first experience with this spreading phonon.

            I had a general idea where the botanical gardens were but thought it might be a trial to find them on foot. As my cab drove along, I paid close attention to the route, following it on my map, so I could find my way back to the hotel. I was glad the cab accepted credit cards as it was an astronomical sum for the two mile ride. When the cabbie realized I was going to walk back he pointed out a short cut on the map for me.

The Botanical Gardens were founded in 1961. It was a gorgeous day and many families were out enjoying the sun and warm weather. The gardens were lovely with several bridges over ponds, tree line lawns and paths, numerous flower gardens, large herb gardens and a gazebo café in the middle of it all. Many park benches were available for people to sit and enjoy.

I thought about stopping at the gazebo for a cup of tea, but it was crowded and being a single I didn’t want to tie up a table that could be utilized by four people. So I opted for a park bench to people-watch and enjoy the day and surroundings. It sure beat shopping!

            When  ready I started to walk back to the city. I was smart to take a cab to the gardens because of its location and my unfamiliarity I would never have been able to find the gardens myself. But it was a pretty easy to walk back. The cabbie told me which street to take as he had taken the harbor/water route where there were no sidewalks. It took me about 55 minutes to walk the estimated couple of miles. The street changed names  three times, so I was cautious following the map.

            As I approached the church I heard the organ play Here comes the Bride. On the patio of the church sat a ‘52 Hudson to carry the new couple away. I sat on a bench, but after awhile when the bride did not appear, I left and walked back to the hotel.   

            It had been a delightful afternoon. 

BROTHEL AND SUCH

My Stay in a  Brothel

When I went to Churchill, Manitoba I chose a particular trip because it included a couple of days at the White Whale Lodge, where mothers and cubs are most often seen.

A helicopter transported us, a few at a time, across the Churchill River to the lodge, built in the early 1900s. The rustic bunkhouse contained a large main room, several small rooms, each with two bunk beds (slept 4), a dining room, and a kitchen. At the time the lodge was built, Churchill was on the east side of the river. The town moved across the river  in the early 1930s after the completion of the grain facility.

            Although the bears are wonderful and beautiful animals, everyone is very conscious that they are wild animals. Flares moved the bears away from the immediate helicopter landing area. To be on the safe side, a fellow stood by with a loaded rifle. Transfers from the helicopter to the lodge were quick. When all were inside, the barred gate was replaced. In 1960 Hollywood filmed Savage Image with Anthony Quinn and (I think) Peter O’Toole at the lodge.

            When my daughter picked me up at the airport on my return she said, “You look like you had a good trip, Mom.”

             “I did! You know I slept in a brothel two nights.”

Her eyes got big and she abruptly stopped walking saying, “You did WHAT?”     

Then, of course, I had to explain that during the time 3000 men were building the grain facility, the lodge was used as a brothel. Most everything at the lodge was run on butane. A generator was turned on, for a few hours in the evening, so we could watch slides and videos about the bears.  Hudson Bay and the Churchill River, surround the cabin on three sides. A rocky cliff, borders the north side. One reaches the area by small boat or helicopter.  Looking out the window at the bay, with its rough water and white caps, one could be anywhere.

            It seemed a bit strange to have the humans behind bars and the animals loose. All the windows and the two small porches were covered with bear proof steel bars.

This afforded us a good and safe viewing area to watch and photograph the bears. A mother and her two cubs kept us entertained, off and on, for two solid days. We were in and out of warm jackets and gear several times a day, and it was always so nice to return to the warm interior of the cabin.

The cubs teethed on the bars, and stuck their paws through the spaces. They played like playful kittens. It was great fun to watch them spar, and to stand on their hind legs and box with each other. They are very curious animals and easily entertain themselves.

            The food at the lodge was outstanding. The chef out did himself with delicious hot meals, no simple sandwiches here! The chef’s regular job was cooking for inmates at a jail. He has taken his vacation at this time for several years to spend at the lodge cooking for inmates of a different kind. He loves being with the bears and meeting visitors to Churchill.

            The lodge is open only four weeks a year, and is available only to small groups. It was a wonderful experience that has given me some fun stories! It has been amusing to watch people’s reaction to the tales of my stay in a brothel.