HEIDELBERG, GERMANY

                            Heidelberg Castle and Environs         

The big attraction in Heidelberg is its castle sitting high on the hill overlooking the Neckar River. There is much to see here and lots of history to learn. The castle ruins are the largest in Germany. The French destroyed the castle during the 30-year war. One tower blown up by the French had 21-foot thick walls! Five dukes lived here, each adding another wing to the castle. The moat has always been dry.

We entered the castle through the Elizabeth Gate which was a birthday gift to Elizabeth from her husband, Fredric. She was the daughter of Mary, Queen of Scots. Elizabeth had 13 children. Her fourth child established the Hudson Bay Company. Another son became George I, and number twelve child became a Hanover. After WW I the Hanover House became the House of Windsor.

The views of the city, river, old city towers from the once fortified walls, and the 200-year old bridge spanning the river were fantastic from the high vantage point.

Berg denotes a castle before the advent of artillery when a structure was primarily used as a fortification. Schloss refers to a castle after fortification when a structure was primarily a residence.

Famous Heidelberg Fass

In the castle cellar sits the Heidelberg Fass, also known as the Tun. The largest wine barrel in the world has a capacity of 58,124 gallons of wine. Today it is more of a tourist attraction than anything else as it is no longer used. It is said that it took 130 oak trees to build the enormous keg.  Stairs lead up to a dance floor built on top of the barrel. Mark Twain apparently visited and received inspiration for a chapter in Huck Finn.

            Heidelberg is a rather small baroque city built on Roman foundations where culture is highly valued. The city is home to Germany’s oldest university, founded in 1386.

            We learned about several old historic buildings and churches  in the heart of the city before moving on to the university. A rather unusual feature of the university was its Student Prison, which functioned from 1712-1914. Mostly well bred, rather well-to-do students attended the university. Punishable offences included dueling, brawling, practical jokes, drunkenness, extinguishing street lamps, and chasing citizen’s pigs down alleys.

We were told, “Students actually liked to be sent to the student prison as it was such a lark. The first two days they were starved on bread and water, but after that they could have food brought in. Water came from a well in the courtyard. Visitors were allowed. The boys continued to attend classes. Liquor was not banned. The boys arrived with their mattress and linens.”

 The walls were covered with graffiti. There were five cells with an iron bed frame, a couple of tables and stools. Using a bright light and candle-soot the boys fashioned silhouettes. The graffiti is preserved now with a coat of varnish. There are a few stairs up to the prison, but it is quite unique and worth the visit.

For some unknown reason the city of Heidelberg escaped WW II bombings which helped preserve its lovely old buildings.

KELHEIM, GERMANY

                               Kelheim Surprises

            On our way into Kelheim, Germany we stopped at Liberation Hall, nicknamed the drum, built to celebrate the 50^th anniversary of the Nations’ War by Ludwig I. The Nations’ War was when 18 nations came together to defeat Napoleon. The domed building stands isolated atop a hill. We climbed 85 steps to reach the entrance where we had a spectacular panoramic view of the city and Danube River below.

            Inside is a huge rotunda where, surrounding the base, stand larger than life marble angels, each in different dress and hair adornments. A spiral staircase with an additional 255 steps led to a viewing area at the top of this huge circular monument.  I climbed the stairs and   walked the whole 360 degrees around the top. Occasionally I stepped on a spongy board, which was a bit disconcerting, as I didn’t know if there was a sub-floor or if it was just a good drop down to the base. 

            It is a lovely huge monument, but it seems to be plunked down in the middle of nowhere. Maybe it means more to Europeans  than it did to me. Still it was an interesting little detour.

       Kelheim is located at the confluence of the Altmuhl and Danube Rivers. It is a small fairy tale town that we entered through the old south gate. The 400 year–old city hall was located on the one main street, and right next door sits the new city hall. Pastel painted homes lined the cobblestone street. 

            There is a plague statue and a glimmering golden Marie Ascension statue half way up the main cobblestone street. At the end of the street is a statue of Ludwig I. We poked our head in the 14^th century Maria Ascension Church to view the gothic and stained glass windows.

            At the end of the street just beyond the Ludwig statue we entered the 1607 Brewery. It was my friend’s  birthday so she  enjoyed a celebratory beer. This was during Europe’s unseasonably hot summer but  the temperature in the outdoor biergarten was comfortable.  For the non beer drinkers there was the inevitable ice cream!

            The shopping opportunities for those so inclined were limited, but this lovely, picturesque, quiet, little town was certainly worth the visit to remind us what our busy lives used to be like.