Wednesday, July 25, 2012

ST. SOPHIA CATHEDRAL

                                 A Very Old Church

St. Sophia’s, a UNESCO site since 1990, is the oldest church in Kiev, Ukraine. We learned that the 11th century, 13 domed church is considered one of the most remarkable structures from the Kievan-Rus period. Built 1017-31 by Prince Yaroslav, the church houses some of the country’s greatest mosaics, frescoes, and ancient icons.  Modeled on St. Sophia in Istanbul, the church is actually a small complex of two churches, bell tower, school and monks’ cells. Renovation in the 19th century was done in Renaissance and Ukrainian baroque style.
The 12 columns divide the interior into five naves.  The church represents a perfect fusion between symbolic image and architecture: the big central gilt cupola and twelve smaller cupolas which crown it evoke Christ and the 12 Apostles.
A complex of monastic buildings surrounds the church. Built originally of wood in 1633, the buildings were destroyed by fire in 1697 and reconstructed in stone.
On the extensive tour of the complex we learned there are 177 hues of color used inside. The old frescoes were magnificent. Stalin closed the church in 1934. Gold headed domes were very popular with Slavs and the city is full of them. There are domes everywhere you look.
A docent told us, “This beautiful iconostasis is gilded over carved linden wood, a popular technique and is about one third the size of the original one.”
The condition of this ancient structure was amazing.
The four-story bell tower reaches 230 feet and features several architectural styles. The first story is typical Ukrainian of the early 17th-18th century. The next two stories are embellished with molded decorations of Ukrainian baroque-style and the fourth story is pseudo-Byzantine.
From the plaza around the bell tower we had a great view of the water, and I regret to say I don’t remember what the body of water was.




Sunday, July 22, 2012

THE YUSUPOV PALACE

One of My Top Three Palaces

I have visited many palaces and castles in my travels but the Yusupov in St. Petersburg, Russia, is one of my three top favorites. It is positively magnificent!
The Yusupov represents a rare combination of architectural monument and a temple of art. The home of a wealthy family, the Palace is also noted for the murder of Rasputin in 1916.
We entered the Yusupov Palace, facing the Neva River, through the carriage entrance. Immediately I noticed the gorgeous large tapestries hanging on the wall, the crystal chandeliers and the marble floor.
The ceiling covered with gorgeous plaster reliefs and sculptures over the grand staircase was one of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. Two large white marble lions with the head of Madam Pompadour lay on each side at the bottom of the wide marble staircase.  A fancy dress collar covering the shoulders was sculptured on each lion.
The Yusupov family was the richest in Russia. Five generations lived in the palace, the last being Felix who died at 54. Our guide said, “Perhaps this exquisite ceiling is the first prefab as it was created by French artisans and shipped to Russia in bits and pieces to be assembled here.”
I was mesmerized by all the beautiful ceilings in the palace. Some of the beautiful parquet floors were done in marble, and the wood ones had different designs in each room.
This private home with a great interior has an interesting history. It was the first building to have central heating, electricity, phone etc. The family had large land holdings and was very rich. The family collected over 1000 pieces of art and sculpture. Some of the originals are in the Hermitage collection so replicas have been placed in the home. One stateroom was built to accommodate the gift of four huge tapestries. I estimated that each tapestry measured at least 12 X 14 feet, and they were gorgeous! In one bedroom the color scheme of pink and blue was carried out even to the chandelier that had a blue ball in the center of pink crystals.
            The blue drawing room displayed the original 300-year-old wall coverings. Blue upholstery covered the furniture. The ceiling was painted with what appeared to be sculptures---ah the talent of the artist! In the center of the ceiling was painted decorated latticework.
The dancing hall revealed another beautiful ceiling with cherubs and pastel colors. Pastel flowers bordered the center square of the happy ceiling. Candle lights, set in gold holders, were placed about every six inches around the upper wall. In the center of the room hung a gorgeous crystal chandelier.
            On the way to the private theater we walked under a couple of long domed ceilings. The hallway's large windows and mirrors were placed between marble columns. The theater was a takeoff on La Scala in Italy. Maroon velvet dominated the inner space. Baroque gold was everywhere. Two balconies extended to the ceiling. Rococo best describes the décor of the theater. Chairs were French. The orchestra pit receded 8-10 feet below the stage.
            Extensive carving dominated the oak in the dining room. Even the chandelier was carved from one huge piece of wood! In the 1800s palaces generally had no fixed dining room as the table or tables were simply moved from room to room to accommodate the expected crowd or occasion.
I had never seen crystal spindles which I spotted in a banister. Nor had I seen unusual embossed leather wallpaper. French stain glass decorated a couple of reception rooms. A marble fountain resembling a Turkish bath sat in the middle of a very Moroccan-décor room.
I love it when I can find and see something new and different.  What a fabulous visit! It is definitely a must-see when one is in St. Petersburg.