AN ORKNEY SURPRISE

Wonderful Italian Church

When in Scotland I wanted to include the Orkney Islands where 20,000 people are outnumbered by 100,000 head of cattle and sheep. There are few trees, and the major industries include fishing, silver jewelry, and North Sea oil. The Orkneys are way north and few people visit the hilly grass-covered barren landscapes. Long rows of plastic covered baled hay standing on large farm plots. Winds are harsh and strong, but the Gulf Stream moderates winter temperatures.

The Orkneys have not always been part of Britain, but were part of Norway until 1460. In that year Norway’s King Christian’s daughter married James II of Scotland and the Orkney Islands were her dowry. Of Orkney’s 70 islands only 20 are inhabited. The island chain covers 376 square miles and has a coastline of 600 miles.

During WW II, 1000 Italian POWs were confined in Orkney. About 500 men at camp 60 resided in Quonset huts. They were pretty loosely guarded, as there was nowhere for them to go. It didn’t take long for those Catholic boys to realize they wanted and needed a chapel. After making a request through proper channels, they were given a Nissen hut (the British equivalent of a Quonset hut) and the support of the camp commander and chaplain.

Under the direction of artistic prisoner, Domenico Chiocchetti the POWs embarked on creating a church. The boys then set about scavenging whatever scrap materials they could find. Scrap metal was used to create the altar and decorative archway. The walls were flat and one actually had to touch them to realize the beige bricks were all painted with a brush. The inside is of Gothic design. A lovely fresco decorates the ceiling. At least one talented artist was among them! The entrance has a lovely simple façade. It is evident that this church resides in a Quonset hut only from a side view. As the war was nearing its end and the prisoners were released, Chiocchetti stayed behind to complete the chapel. This little chapel in a Quonset hut is quite amazing.

Stepping inside we stood stunned at the beautiful sight before us. To think such a lovely chapel was created out of scrap materials is unbelievable. Chiocchetti died in 1999, but what a wonderful symbol of peace he left behind!

More about the Orkneys another day.

SINGING IN THE RAIN

Our First Swiss Hike

Our first Swiss hike started on an overcast drizzly day. We took a cog railway, built in 1889, up to Mt. Pilatus. The 48% incline makes this cog railway the steepest in the world. It took a year to build the approximately three-mile railroad. It was like going straight up the face of the mountain!

Legend says the mountain got its name Pilatus from a holy man who slayed a dragon living on the mountain.

At the top we wandered out on a walkway to a viewing area, but by then we were completely fogged in with a heavy mist. It was disappointing not to  be able to see the view, but it was still a thrill to be 7000’ above sea level. Even though we couldn’t see, it was so quiet that we could hear the serenade of the tinkling cowbells below in the alpine meadow.

Our hotel had packed us a picnic lunch, but we didn’t want to eat in the mist or in the middle of the foyer even though there were very few people about. Charly, our guide, knew everyone and his brother in the country, so he ventured into the mountain-top restaurant and talked the manager into letting us eat our lunch inside. We were the only customers in the big room. Most of us ordered a cup of soup and a hot drink. The friendly staff was very kind. We were especially careful to pick up all our mess and carry it off, as we were grateful for their hospitality.

After lunch we took the gondola down to 1415’ to Frakmuntegg where we started to hike with a destination at Krienseregg at 1026’. By the time we started to hike it was raining pretty hard. Several people had put a folding umbrella in their day pack and they went up rather quickly. I got the giggles as it seemed so ludicrous to be hiking with an umbrella. The tree canopy was rather heavy so we really didn’t get very wet. The path was well kept and fortunately not slippery. It’s interesting that in Switzerland distances are not measured in kilometers from point A to point B, but rather measured in the time it takes an average hiker to make the trek. Time, not distance, signs were consistent throughout the country.

At Krienseregg we took a small cable car to the bottom where we boarded a bus for a short ride back to Lucerne. In spite of the weather we had a grand time, and fortunately that was our last rainy day for the whole trip. Ah, make no mistake, those Swiss Alps are gorgeous!

A PLEASANT SURPRISE

A GREAT HOTEL

In Prague we stayed at the Hotel Petr located in a residential area rather than in the bustling city which meant that it was quiet, especially at night. It was a darling homey and friendly little hotel with only 35-37 rooms. We were but a block or so from a bus line. However, even though we bought bus tickets we never used them. We walked everywhere, as it was an easy walk to and from the city center. At the end of the week we left the bus tickets for the maid.

There were no bellboys at the Hotel Petr, so we grabbed our luggage and made it up stairs to our room.
Our room was lovely and the bed looks comfortable. Being on the second floor we were able to leave the window open.

In a few days we would learn from the owner, “This hotel, built in 1910 was once my grandmother’s home. During the Communist regime the house was taken, and she was allowed to remain in a small two-room apartment. Once we were free from the Communist bloc we put in for repatriation of the house. My grandmother died in 1985.

“I have been restoring the hotel one floor at a time. In the beginning we had as many employees as we had rooms. That wasn’t very profitable. We learned a lot about free emterprize so today  we have a much better ratio .”

This fellow told us how during WWII people smuggled radios to illegally listen to Voice of America and how grateful they were to our country for the broadcasts.

The hotel was well run. We were comfortable, had unexpected amenities, and had a wonderful visit and stay. I hope this fellow has continued to prosper and do well.