TORTUGUERO NATIONAL PARK

                                          Turtles Are The Attraction

            It was not until my third trip to Costa Rica that I got to Tortuguero National Park, located in a remote area on Costa Rica’s eastern Atlantic coast. The park, covering 47,000 acres, was established in 1970, although regulation to protect the turtles and control visitors started in 1963 when turtles were nearly extinct. Trade in turtles has gone on since 1541. Tortugas, in Spanish, means giant sea turtle. Turtles are the main attraction in the park.

Of the eight species of marine turtles, six nest in Costa Rica and four species nest in the park. The green turtle is the most common. Hawksbill turtles are also found in the park. The Loggerhead is the rarest, and the giant Leatherback is the most spectacular and largest of all the species. It can grow up to six feet and weigh 1000 pounds. 

Raffia palms line the jungle canals and lagoons that lie behind beaches. These canals are the main highway, as no vehicles or paved roads exist in the park. Boats, skiffs, dugout canoes ply the canals and transport goods and people. Such water crafts are often referred to as pangas. Many say the lush tropical jungle is similar to the Amazon.

Tortuguero is home to spider, capuchin and howler monkeys as well as the great green macaw, green iguana, toucan, three-toed sloth, and the endangered manatee. The area receives 200-inches of rain a year and is the rainiest part of the country, resulting in a healthy mosquito population. We were very lucky as far as both rain and bugs were concerned. Although we were prepared with long sleeves and long pants we had no need for them and we never did use any of the bug juice! It was VERY humid and smothering hot though.

The rain forest protects 350 species of birds, 110 specie reptiles, 57 species amphibians as well as butterflies, jaguars, anteaters, and peccaries. The lowland rain-forest is a true tropical jungle.

While in the park we took three additional boat rides for nature watching. Our guide checked in with the park rangers each time before we went exploring various canals. The palm canal (Cano Palma) totally fascinated me. Palms contain a lot of tannin, and with many dead leaves on the bottom, the water appears very black and was mirror calm. The reflections were so incredible that it was hard to determine what was real and what was reflection. When we did turn up the speed, the boat’s wake was a marked bronze color instead of white.

It was common to see monkeys playing in the trees and sometimes teasing us as we walked along the paths. Iguanas and small lizards were seen often so it was wise to watch where you stepped. Our cabins were individual, enclosed and you could see nothing but lush foliage when looking out the screened open-shuttered ‘windows’. Ceiling fans were helpful at night as there was no air conditioning.  Being a naturalist I thoroughly enjoyed our stay in the park as did the rest of my family. Rain forests are neat areas, and having stayed in several, I’ll take one every chance I get.

BATH, ENGLAND AND ITS ABBEY

                         A Lovely City Full of History

The city of Bath, England sits in a valley at the bottom edge of the Cotswold’s. This city of 100,000 exists because of water where 270,000 gallons of water bubbles up each day from the bowels of the earth. They are England’s only hot springs. The springs are 10,000 feet deep, and surface in three places with a temperature of 46 degrees centigrade.

Legend tells the story about a Celtic chief who had leprosy and was forced to leave his people for their own safety. During his travels he happened upon the hot springs. After bathing in them for some period of time he was cured and eventually returned to his people. He had a difficult time convincing his people who he really was, but when he did he moved his people to the springs which they called ‘sul’ and which they worshipped.

The Romans put Bath on the map in the first century when they drained the swamp and built a temple to the goddess Minerva.  They built a sophisticated network of  baths making full use of the mineral springs and called the area Aquae Sulis. They  occupied the area for 360  years  but in 410 suddenly abandoned the area. Over the years water again overcame the area.

In the 12^th century present day Bath was built over the unknown Roman ruins. The Roman ruins were not discovered until the 1800s. The old Roman lead lined pool is 5’ deep and still water tight! The original Roman drains are still used to drain the excess water and carry it to the River Avon.

            By the 18^th century architect, John Wood, united the present city making use of the local yellow stone.  The debonair and flamboyant Beau (Richard) Nash threw extravagant parties, and Bath was the hottest social scene in the country.

Bath Abbey

Monks established    the Bath Abbey in the 900s and it  is across the plaza from the Roman Baths ruins/museum. This gorgeous 16^th century Gothic abbey is over the site of a Norman cathedral, that was on the site of an ancient Saxon monastery. 
The Abbey measures 67 meters by 22 meters. The nave vaulting is 24 meters high and the height of the tower is an additional 49 meters. Why isn’t it a cathedral? The Abbey is a parish church; a cathedral is the principal church of a diocese, the area of a bishop’s authority. When visiting the Abbey do plan on giving yourself enough time and if at all possible do it with a docent who can relay a lot of history. Such docents are extremely knowledgeable and love to partake all sorts of neat information.      
 In 1499 Bishop Oliver King demolished the Norman cathedral to build the present abbey. This Anglican parish church houses one of the most beautiful fan vaulted ceilings I’ve ever seen. It is truly magnificent. The front façade of the abbey is intricate and interesting. A miter, olive tree, and crown are worked in the façade as a play on the present building’s founder, Bishop Oliver King.

         On my second trip to Bath I pretty much  knew my way around. I visited the Roman Baths again, and saw some things I had missed the first time. I spent a fair amount of time in the Abbey, as it is truly beautiful. Then I walked across the street and watched the waterfall on the River Avon before making it back up to the bridge.
           Bath boasts the only bridge left in England that is lined with shops. The Putney Bridge spans the River Avon and was a famous city landmark in the 18^th century. On one end of the bridge was a small sandwich shop. After walking down one side and back on the other side of the bridge, I stopped in the sandwich shop and bought a ham and cheese baguette for lunch.