Wednesday, August 26, 2015

ST MARTINS VILLAGE

                                           A Charming Village
      The seaside village of St. Martins, Gateway to the Fundy Trail, is nestled on miles of quiet, unspoiled Bay of Fundy beaches. Home to the World`s Highest Tides, the beautiful, picturesque village has a rich history. Besides miles of unspoiled, quiet, accessible beaches, two covered bridges, a light-house, garden-park, and an active harbor, the city also boasts world famous Sea Caves. Originally the area was called Quaco, but it is uncertain why, and today the area west of the city is now called West Quaco. (quack ko) The Village is a magnet for artists and photographers wishing to capture the unspoiled beauty of the area. A small community of artisans produces pottery, jewelry, paintings and sculptures.
     In 1783 a group of loyalist soldiers known as the King`s Orange Rangers settled here. In 1776, at the end of the American Revolution, the loyalists were sent to garrison duty in Nova Scotia. The Rangers originated from Orange and Duchess Counties, New York and disbanded at Halifax. What was known as New Brunswick at that time was part of `New Scotland` or Nova Scotia.
    The newly settled community was christened St. Martins by Matthias Moran, one of the original grantees, after his ancestral province in France. Moran was also the founder of the prolific Moran Shipbuilding Company. Together the Morans and the Vaughan family built the most number of ships at St. Martins shipyards, although there were 37 other builders. This little village became the third largest producer of wooden sailing vessels on the North America eastern seaboard.   
     The first ship, Rachel  named for his wife was launched in 1803 by David Vaughan. Of Vaughan’s 11 children, 7 of the 9 sons became master mariners. The last vessel, Salina K. Goldman was launched in 1919. When the days building sailing vessels ended, many men who comprised the talented workforce of the village found employment at the Saint John Shipbuilding Company using their expertise to produce the great modern commercial and naval vessels used today. The last vessels were the Halifax Class Frigates built for the Canadian Navy in the 1990`s.
      The unique architecture of the village was often copied from Europe. The intricate designs brought back by sea captains were incorporated into their own homes. European artisans often came to decorate ceilings and wall panels of village homes. Unfortunately, little of that art remains. Local cabinet-makers produced furniture and doors.
     A disastrous 1900 fire destroyed over 68 village buildings. However, the wealth of the shipbuilder has left a lasting architectural legacy in the grand homes remaining. 
    The village of St Martins has a very high volunteer mentality. The fire department is a volunteer one. The museum relies on volunteers. This volunteerism starts in the school system. All over town we came across small lending libraries. Each ‘little house on a pole’ was stocked with books and instructions of take one, leave one. They were darling and the system was run by students.
      All along the main street were lovely sturdy wooden benches with a large square flower box at each end. The boxes about three feet high were planted with herbs and edible plants like strawberries. A hand written sign invited you to take what you wanted but to leave some for the next person. Unfortunately the berries were not ready for eating yet! These little things lend charm to the village.
    The Quaco Museum and Library opened in 1978. The maritime museum contains the permanent collection of artifacts and archival material relating to the history of the area.
     A short hike into Fuller Falls provided me a new experience of climbing up and down a cable ladder. These large roaring falls were lovely!
    The village with a population of 314 has several guesthouses/B&Bs to accommodate visitors as well as some good restaurants. It was a positively lovely week and stay in the quiet village that does not have a traffic problem. The village is very walkable.

Sunday, August 23, 2015

St JOHN, NEW BRUNSWICK

                      Not to be confused with St Johns, New Foundland

     St John, on the southern coast of New Brunswick, is the largest city in the province as well as Canada’s oldest incorporated city.  Located at the mouth of the St. John River, covering an area of 121 square miles, the city has a population of about 75,000. Once called the Loyalist City, it is most often referred to today as Fundy City.
      The topography surrounding St John is hilly; a result of the influence of two coastal mountain ranges--the St. Croix Highlands and the Caledonia Highlands--which run along the Bay of Fundy. Frequent granite outcroppings rise from the rocky soil. Flying into the city I could see the forest below  opened up with numerous ponds, lakes, streams and rivers. Loch Lomond, a large lake, is part of the water shed for the city.
     The year-round, ice-free harbor was probably first entered in 1524 by Gomez, a Spaniard, and named Rio De La Buelta. Earlier still, Basque, Breton and Norman fisherman are believed to have made voyages to the Bay of Fundy in the early 1500s. History records show that French explorers Sieur de Monts and Samuel de Champlain arrived at the mouth of what is now the St. John River on June 24, 1604, feast day of St. John the Baptist.---hence the name.
     Portland Point, near where H.M.C.S. Brunswicker is located, is an important historic landmark, and is where the first permanent French settlement in that part of Acadia, now New Brunswick, was made. The city was fortified by Charles La Tour who was Lieutenant Governor 1631-1635 and who engaged in trade with the natives.
     Thousands of Irish immigrants were quarantined on Partridge Island during the time of Ireland’s Great Famine. Many died while sailing in crowded unsanitary cargo vessels. Hundreds more died on the overcrowded island with inadequate shelter, medical care, sanitation, and drinking water.  
     Those hardy enough to make it ashore faced continued poverty, prejudice, and great challenges in finding gainful employment in the Loyalist City, thus an Irish community was established in St John during the late 19th century. Over the years immigrants with the means traveled further abroad seeking better opportunities in the west or south in the United States.
     After the 1877 fire that reduced much of the city to ashes, the Irish laborers played no small role in rebuilding the destroyed city, this time with brick and stone.
      King‘s Square, laid out with the bandstand in the center, has six radiating paths leading from it to the bordering streets. The copper roof and filigree metal framework of the King
Edward VII Memorial Bandstand, constructed in 1908, was a gift from the City Coronet Band. It quickly became a favorite location for musical interludes in King’s Square. This beloved Saint John landmark was restored in 2013.
     Nearby the Loyalist Burial Ground lies in the center of a leafy, peaceful, park-like area with lovely gardens.  Established in 1783, many Americans loyal to the British crown are also buried here. After the cemetery closed in 1848 it slowly fell into disrepair. In 1995 the Irving enterprise restored the cemetery and its park. A sweet bronze beaver fountain, sitting in the middle of a small pond, was added during restoration. . Beaver, a symbol of Canada, is found on both the money and flag.
     The Old City Market is where locals go to buy fresh produce, meat and fish. The outer perimeter houses the meat, fish and food stalls. Craftsmen inhabit the center of the market and between these two are the fresh produce stalls. The market still accommodates bench merchants—those who do not show on a daily basis.
     The original graceful, but heavy wrought iron, gates still open and close the market each day. A year after opening, the market managed to survive the great fire, although surrounded by flames. It also survived urban renewal and remains the heart of the city.
     Walking the Trinity Royal Heritage Conservation Area, the city’s historic district, so designated in 1982, gives one a real feel for the city. Here you’ll find Victorian brick buildings built after the fire of 1877 housing shops, restaurants, pubs, art galleries, other businesses, as well as private homes.
     Walk along the Waterfront  to see the harbor activity. Look back for the skyline. The   Coast Guard station is right in the middle of the activity. The Chamber of Commerce is just up from the waterfront.It houses sculptures and a unique library on the second level. A small park with a big ole bronze moose is across the street.
      There is much to see and do in St. John. A quick Google search will give you a rundown of hotels in the city.