SEA OF CORTEZ

           Islands off Mexico

The Sea of Cortez in Mexico wasn’t even on my radar until a friend called looking for a roommate and travel companion. This would be a primitive camping trip and my friend knew no one else willing to sleep on the beach in a pup tent. She figured I’d be game.

After arriving at LAX  I learned we were being weighed and limited to one small carry-on bag. I found a couple empty chairs to do a little repacking before checking in. Fortunately I’d stuck a backpack in the outside pocket of my suitcase. I pulled a change of clothes, nightgown, bathing suit, tee, mask, snorkel, and cosmetic kit out of the suitcase, put it in the pack and was good to go. In case the luggage didn’t arrive with me at least I could cope.

            On arrival in La Paz our guide told us, “The Sea of Cortez spans nine degrees of latitude crossing the Tropic of Cancer at the southernmost tip. The diverse landscape provides for a variety of cultures and ethnic groups. The shores of Baja’s Pacific coast vary from the shores along the Sea of Cortez. There are many resorts along the shores of Baja for those who enjoy that sort of comfort and travel, but the 53 uninhabited islands and the many rock outcroppings in the Sea of Cortez provide adventure and real variety. We will be camping on Isla Espiritu Santo, one of the larger islands in the southern part of the Sea."

            Espiritu Santo is approximately 25 miles from La Paz and a 2 ½ hour boat ride. When arriving at our beach the azure blue, clear water was too shallow for the boat to get very close to shore, so the captain dropped an anchor over the side and we loaded pangas (small outboard Zodiac-type motor boats) for the trip into the beach. The 6 X 8 tents housed two people. You can imagine the calisthenics we performed when getting out of a wet bathing suit!

            We retired early after the evening programs, but the gentle lapping of the waves on the beach soon sent me off to dreamland. I woke with the sun and each morning my friend heard me say, “What a treat to wake up to fresh steaming coffee and a hot breakfast. This is the life!”

            Our cook produced wonderful meals. Food always tastes better when eaten out doors, especially when it is prepared for you! The island was our home port for ten days and we had a wonderful time with lots of adventures.

LOVELY MOUNTAIN ACCOMMODATION

                                                Inland Belize

           After our dolphin project on the Belize atoll I decided to stay over  on the mainland to see some Mayan ruins. We traveled about 20 miles on paved road through the rural countryside. Although the road was paved it had no dividing lines, and there was very little traffic after the first five miles.

            Then we turned onto a dirt road for about another 20 miles. Our four wheel van progressed slowly dodging ruts and holes in the road. It was also a gentle climb to about 2000 feet. In the valley we passed huge citrus farms. The pine trees were tall and straight, slightly smaller than a telephone pole.

During the ride the driver told us, “The Mountain Pine Ridge here  in the southwestern part of Belize has some of the most diverse scenery in the country. These stately pines cover 300 square miles of steep hillsides in the foothills of the Mayan Mountains. Along the edges of the pine ridge are limestone caves, white water rivers, hardwood forest, and sharp escarpments with sweeping views. The climate is slightly cooler than the rest of Belize. Birds are plentiful, butterflies are particularly numerous, and there are many varieties of unusual bromeliads and other epiphytes. Much of the wilderness is in virgin condition, just as it probably was 2000 years ago when the Mayans left their footpaths.”

We were headed to Blancanceaux Lodge which happened to be owned by Frank Cuppola. The beautiful tropical landscaping was a surprise. We stayed in a lovely thatched roof cabana with a nice screened veranda that afforded us a spectacular view of a waterfall in the Privassion River beyond. All the electricity for the lodge was generated from a small facility on the river.

I spent the afternoon hiking around the area and enjoying the lovely landscaping. It was a quiet, peaceful afternoon.

The rainy season normally starts the end of May but that year the archaeologists left the area in mid-May, two weeks earlier than usual. This was not a good sign! 

 That night I fell asleep listening to the running water of the river behind our cabana not knowing if we would make it to the ruins in the morning. Would the weather let us attempt the trip? (Yes , we woke to a thumbs up, but more about that later.)