SALISBURY CATHEDRAL

        A Lovely Gothic Structure

           
          In 1220 AD Bishop Richard Poore and architect Elias de Derham decided to build a new state-of-the-art Gothic-style Cathedral in a rough field called St. Mary's Mead. It would replace the old Norman Cathedral at Old Sarum.

        The cathedral in Salisbury, England is a beautiful gothic structure with the typical graceful curved arches with columns of stone and marble. Started in 1220, the church was completed 38 years later. However, the 404-foot tall spire, the tallest in England, was not added until 1320, and it took 40 years to complete---longer than the building of the original cathedral. The spire required 6 ½ tons of masonry.

60,000 tons of Chilmark Stone and 10,000 tons of Purbeck Stone were used to build the Cathedral and 28, 000 tons of oak were used to construct the roof. The 4 acre roof is  covered with 420 tons of lead. This magnificent gothic cathedral dominates the city and that spire can be seen from everywhere.

         One of the four columns supporting the tower has a slight bow in it. The tower leans 28-inches southeast into the wind. They say when the wind really blows one can feel the spire sway. Because of settling years ago major stabilization was necessary. On one very calm day a year, a mountain climber makes it to the top—to change a red aircraft warning light!

Water and slate run under the center of the cathedral. The water level is checked every day. If there is a drought, people become anxious, but if the water drops below a certain level, there is an arrangement with the water authority to release water to maintain a safe level. If the water table stayed down, the slate would dry out and shift, causing catastrophic results for the church.

     The stone used for the building was quarried 12 miles away. Apprentice masons were sent to the quarry to do initial trimming of the stones, which speeded up the construction. Stone could only be brought from the quarry to the church six months of the year because rain and mud made it impossible for the horses and wagons to travel the rest of the year. So stone was accumulated at the church site to keep the masons working during the slack time.

      The wall stones were moved from Old Sarum and taken to Salisbury where they were used to enclose the new cathedral. Its church area is the largest enclosed one in England. The choir stalls are the largest and earliest complete set in Britain

The church contains 365 beautiful stainglass windows. In the sanctuary the straight-backed cane seat chairs didn’t look very comfortable. No doubt that was intentional!  The chairs were in rows in lieu of bench pews. Originally a carved marble screen separated the learned folk from the peasants. Removed in the 1790s, it is now preserved in one of the side rooms There are 69 statues on the West Front.

    The original cross was kept on top of the church for 620 years. Made of iron and very plain, it was removed once after 200 years to be copper coated, as the lower shaft was beginning to erode; then it was placed back in position where it stayed until 1950. Now it is displayed in the main part of the church.

One of the four surviving originals of the Magna Carter (1215) is on display in the Chapter house on the grounds.

        The oldest medieval clock in England, and probably the world, is housed in the cathedral. The 1386 clock has no face, but is connected via pulley and cord to a bell in the bell tower ringing it every hour. Once upon a time it acted as an alarm clock to warn the bishop that he better be in church for services. It was originally located in a bell tower that was demolished in 1792. Following this demolition, the clock was moved to the Cathedral Tower where it operated until 1884. The clock was then placed in storage and forgotten until it was discovered in 1929, in an attic of the cathedral. It was repaired and restored to working order in 1956. The clock is most unusual!

         The 1877 church organ has three sets of pipes.

         The cloisters, the largest in England, were added 50 years after the church was completed. Cloisters usually signal monks, but no monks have ever resided at the church in Salisbury, although the original church in Old Sarum was monasteric. The Close gates are locked from 10.30pm every night through until 7.00 AM the next morning

         This fabulous church is one of my favorites as it has so much interesting history. I really recommend one pick up a docent when visiting, as there is so much to learn. This is particularly true when visiting other well known churches and oriental gardens.

ELIJAH CHURCH

                     A Russian Church That Survived

         In Yaroslavl, Russia the embankment is one of the most pleasant found among Volga towns. Landscaped in the 19^th century it comprises a long promenade bordered by a picturesque green belt referred to as linden alley. The colonnaded gazebo, perched atop the bank, offered wonderful Volga panoramas. The river freezes in winter and all too soon we were to find that very true!

       The industrial city—chemical—is also home to eight state universities catering to 20,000 students. Half of the churches in Russia have been destroyed, but we still visited many on this trip. In Yaroslavl we visited Elijah the Prophet Church, 1647-50, that features an asymmetrical exterior created by five unevenly arranged green cupolas on the main building, covered galleries, a belfry, portico, and a bulky spire of an adjoining chapel. Frescos, painted in 1680, blanketed the interior. The 1696 lace-like iconostasis is regarded as a Russian baroque masterpiece. The 1660 carved wooden czar thrones are superb examples of ancient craftsmanship. The frescos in this church were done by 15 artists in only three months! I swear every church we visited had frescos more beautiful than the previous church.

       In this small winter church we listened to the most fantastic quintet. We stood and listened to them for a long time. I still wish I had bought one of their CDs.

     After leaving the church and the fantastic music we walked through a greenbelt to a statue, the only religious statue in the country.

  The next day we learned that Lake Onega was still iced in. We just laid to for a few hours while an ice breaker caught up to us to clear a clean passage through the very southern portion of Lake Ladoga. It was a clear sunny day so we spent much time on deck enjoying the weather  and ice. The next two stops were cancelled; however, we made a couple of unscheduled stops to small villages which were interesting.