ALPHORN abd OPIUM ICE CREAM

MORE FUN EXPERIENCES

THE ALPHORN

        In the 1970s a Swiss band made the alphorn famous but we know it from the popular Ricola TV commercials. In Switzerland a visit to the only alphorn factory in the world was  most interesting. A factory guide told us that the factory manufactures two horns a day, or about 250 a year. The small factory has only a few employees.

      Half of the horns manufactured remain in Switzerland; 25% of the horns are exported to the US, and the remaining 25% go to Asia, mostly Japan.

      Holding a horn the guide explained that it has no holes or valves, so the length determines the pitch. The longer the horn the deeper the pitch.

      Then surprisingly he pulled the horn apart telling us that the horn breaks down into three sections to fit into a manageable carrying case. Narrow brass rings connect the horn when it is connected. The average price of a horn is about $2000. The longest horn in the world is 47 meters (approximately 153’) and is in the Guinness Book of Records.

      In the show room we were given a chance to try to blow an alphorn. A couple of the fellows had some success, but you really have to know how to blow a horn instrument. I huffed and huffed into the horn with absolutely no success.

      The alphorn is an unusual and unique instrument, and the visit to the factory was fun. I have kept an eye peeled for the instrument ever since, but so far have not spotted one except on TV.

OPIUM ICECREAM

       One evening in Vienna leaving a restaurant where we’d enjoyed a really good, if different, pizza my traveling companion said, “An ice cream would be perfect for topping off a great meal.”

      “Good idea! This afternoon I saw an ice cream kiosk a block from the hotel. Cross here and then turn right should bring us right to it,” I answered.

       We joined a short line at the kiosk. It was hard to make a choice of the twenty or so flavors displayed. They were labeled---in Austrian or German. It didn’t make any difference as neither of us read or spoke either language.

      I asked the young man behind the counter what flavor the vanilla-looking ice cream with tiny dark specks in it was. I thought likely  chocolate chip. I was totally unsuccessful, as the fellow didn’t speak English, which was a surprise, as most often I’ve found young people, and especially young males, speak English overseas.

      I gave up the conversation and just ordered the ice cream. For this ice-creamaholic, I knew it would be good, no matter what its flavor. Licking our cones we walked away. Suddenly a young man behind us said, “Ladies, that ice cream you are eating is opium ice cream.”

     “What!” we exclaimed simultaneously.

     “Yes, you know like from the poppies grown in Afghanistan. Opium ice cream.”

      After a minute a light went on in my head and I said, “Oh, you mean poppy seed.”

      “Yes. Yes.” He strolled past us licking on his cone.

       He had been standing behind us in line and I wondered why he hadn’t jumped in to interpret for us when we were trying to converse with the vendor.

      We had a good chuckle over my opium ice cream, and I’ve had a lot of fun relating the story ever since.

HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA, CANADA

So Much to See and Do

      Halifax, Nova Scotia, the 250-year-old provincial capital with a population of 300,000, is also the province’s largest city. The city has a long sea faring and military history. Its harbor is said to be the second best in the world---after Sydney, Australia. The deep ice-free natural harbor is the core of existence and the city’s most outstanding resource. The ten-mile long harbor is shaped like a spoon with the wide bowl at the end being Bedford Basin. It has been active with explorers, sea traders, navy ships, ocean going liners, freighters, and container ships.

     In the early 1700s a few French settlers arrived when the Micmac Indians were the only inhabitants, but it was not until 1749 that the British saw the potential of the ‘great long harbor’. Colonel Edward Cornwallis established a stockaded settlement with 2500 settlers arriving in 13 ships. He named the settlement Halifax after Lord Halifax.

     By 1750 more settlers arrived establishing Dartmouth across the harbor. With a population of 68,000 Dartmouth is Nova Scotia’s second largest city. With its 23 lakes, it is known as the City of Lakes. By 1752 the settlements of Halifax and Dartmouth were linked by ferry, the oldest ferry system in North America. Today the 1.5 K Macdonald (1955) and MacKay bridges connect the cities on each end of the Narrows at the harbor entrance. However, a scenic ferry ride across the harbor is still available today for a small fee.

     By the 1800s Halifax was a thriving seaport and the harbor shaped and defined the city’s history. During the American Revolution the Royal Navy sailed from here to harass the east coast of the United States, and during the Civil War ships ran the blockade.

In 1838 Cunard Lines established British and North American mail, and by 1840 four ships provided regular transport between the two continents. In 1841 the seaport incorporated, ushering in the mercantile era. Troop transports gathered and sailed from Halifax during WWI and WWII.”

     Today the city wraps itself around its historic heart. Historic old districts are integrated with modern stylish buildings. The streets leading from the harbor are steep. Several covered walkways over streets, called pedways, eliminate a great deal of the climb and they also keep people dry in inclement weather.

    The waterfront is still very active. Dover flour has a huge facility and can load 90,000 barrels of flour an hour into a ship.

     In the 1960-70s sand blasting of old building exteriors began a historic preservation program, and upscale hotels appeared on the landscape. Although a municipal mandate restricting building height, to preserve the view of the waterfront, was passed, somehow a few managed to get around the mandate.

     The old wooden waterfront warehouses and fine stone structures have been renovated and turned into a favorite area for restaurants, sidewalk cafés, and trendy shops.

    The Citadel, a hilltop, star shaped, granite fortress, dominates the city. Over-looking the harbor it offers a strategic view of the bay, and a magnificent view of the city. The present Citadel, completed in 1856, took 27 years to build and is the fourth built on the site. Its construction was at the urging of the Duke of Wellington; the cost was 242,000 pounds. In its day the Citadel represented the best of defensive military technology. However, a shot has never been fired.

From 1749-1906 the Citadel was under British rule. In 1906 it was transferred to the Canadian Department of Defense, and in 1956 designated a National Historic Site. 

     During the summer, college students dressed in period uniforms and kilts of the 78^th Highlanders, who originally manned the fort, demonstrate various military drills. Changing of the guard takes place on the hour. After a two-hour rest they are again on duty where they stand at attention for an hour. During that time they are allowed to take 15 paces a total of seven times to aid leg circulation. These young men look smart and do a remarkably good job.

      On the harbor side of Citadel Hill sits the Old Town Clock. Prince Edward, father of Queen Victoria, commissioned it in 1803. The clock on each side is a different size. The population in each direction, N,E,S,W, determined the clock size.

      Below Citadel Hill is St. Paul’s Anglican Church, a gift of King George III, and the oldest building in the city (1749). City Hall is of Georgian architecture dating to 1916. St. Mary’s Basilica has the tallest granite spire (128’) in Canada. Halifax has many historic buildings.

     Trivia: The first newspaper was established in 1752, and the first post office in 1754.Nova Scotia exports more lobsters than any place else in the world.

      Point Pleasant Park is still leased from England for the sum of one shilling a year. Each year there is a ceremony when an official from Halifax gives the crown the one shilling. Then it is given back to Halifax because the price has never changed, but the shilling is no longer available, so that one is guarded carefully!

      The Public Gardens (1865) cover 17 acres in the heart of the city. Early one afternoon we elected to walk through the lovely Victorian gardens. Part way through the park we heard music and followed the sound to a quaint gazebo where we stopped to listen to a great lively concert---what good timing!

      The harbor is bordered by Upper and Lower Water Streets. Barington Street is the historic center of downtown and is the street many troops marched down to Pier 21 for transit to areas of conflict. For 43 years (1928-71) Pier 21 was also the gateway for a million immigrants, including 50,000 war brides from Europe.

     On D-day it was decided that all pubs and business establishments should close. Servicemen weren’t at all thrilled about not being able to get a drink and a riot ensued causing much damage. Windows in nearly all the establishments were broken. The riot lasted two and a half days before the city regained control.

    Halifax is a city with small town friendliness while maintaining big city sophistication. There is much to see and do.