Legend says that Antwerp comes from the Dutch "hand werpen" meaning "hand thrown". The story has it that a mean and nasty giant controlled the river traffic, demanding exorbitant tolls. Those who refused to pay had one hand cut off. But one day, a young and brave Roman soldier named Silvius Brabo managed to kill the giant. He cut the giant's hand off and threw it in the Scheldt River, giving the city its name. Legends are fun but the name more probably comes from the word ‘aanwerp’ (alluvial mound’), which describes the first settlement's geographical feature.
The
Scheldt River, about 50-feet deep, is a tidal river that connects to the North
Sea. The modern city is on one side of the river and the historic ancient city on the other side. No bridges cross the river.
Centuries ago the enemy was on the other side and why would you want to give
them easy access? Then the French and German empires came along. As the city
grew ferries came into service and as the boat and ship traffic grew bridges
would have to be very high to accommodate them. In 1933 the first tunnel was
built under the river. Later bike and pedestrian tunnels were built. The
tunnels are 100-feet below the river.
Antwerp
was inhabited as far back as Gallo-Roman times. The first fortification was
built in the 7th century, but was destroyed by the Vikings in the 9th
century. In the 10th century, Antwerp
became a margraviate (a border province) of the Holy Roman Empire---the Scheldt
River marked the border with the County of Flanders, which belonged to the
Kingdom of France.
The city was annexed to the Duchy of Brabant,
and by the mid-14th century its seaport and wool market made it Western
Europe's leading center for trade and finance. In 1356 Antwerp became part of the
County of Flanders and lost many of its privileges to Bruges benefit. However, in the 15th century, Antwerp's
economy boomed again turning it into a world-class metropolis.
The
port of Antwerp is the most inland seaport and the second largest port in Europe, after Rotterdam.
Belgian exports transit through the Flemish city. Antwerp is also the world's
second petrochemical port, after Houston, Texas. Half of the world's top 20
chemical companies have offices in Antwerp.
The
city received much damage during both WW I and II, but today remains a city
with historical architecture dating back to the 16th century. In
1993, Antwerp was nominated Cultural Capital of Europe. In 1920, Antwerp hosted
the sixth Summer Olympic Games.
The
city has been a bastion of Flemish nationalism for decades. Like Amsterdam,
Antwerp is one of the world’s diamond trading centers. About 85% of the world's
rough diamonds and half of the polished diamonds are negotiated in the city.
The castle is known as the Steen, literally meaning stone,
so called because when it was built in 1200-1235 most buildings were made of
wood. Charles V revamped the castle in
1520. The statue in front of the castle
gate was once endowed as a conspicuous virile male, but the prude 17th century
Jesuits altered the statue to reflect their liking.
Old
Town was built around the Town Square (Grote Markt) as was the common practice at that time. The magnificent Guild
houses are richly decorated with golden statues, The Stadhuis (town hall) completed in 1564 was built in Renaissance
style, with a touch of Flemish Gothic to blend with the surrounding buildings. In the middle of the square stands an 1887
statue of Brabo, the legendary slayer of the giant. The water in the fountain is recycled but not
drinkable.
We
walked through an alley to see the old meat market and some new city housing as
well as part of the old city wall.
The
busiest shopping street in Antwerp is known as the 'Meir'. In 1531, a New Stock Exchange was built on the Meir and
was the first building in the world designed as a stock and a trade exchange.
After an 1858 fire it was reconstructed in Neo-Gothic style. Lined with
historic buildings, but at the western end of the Meir is the Art-Deco tower
building (Torengebouw), which was Europe's first skyscraper when
completed in 1932. It just seems so out of place among all the ancient buildings.
Screening covers statuary on the building façades to protect them from pigeons.
The
17th century artist Peter Paul Rubens lived in Antwerp from 1616 to
1640 in a Renaissance-Baroque house and. painted most of his masterpieces here.
He received his guests and patrons at his home in the heart of the city.
Subsequent occupants altered the home, but it was restored to its original
state after the City of Antwerp purchased it in 1937.
The
Gothic Cathedral of Our Lady with its impressive 134-foot high tower dominates the square. It is the
highest tower in the low lands. A chapel has existed at the location of the
cathedral since the 12th century, and the current structure was built between
1352 to 1481. Most of the original
furniture was destroyed or plundered by the Spaniards or the French, The church
contains two Rubens paintings: The
Descent from the Cross’ and the Elevation
of the Cross. Contrary to most
churches in Belgium, or Europe, this cathedral charges an admission fee.
We
received a detailed pamphlet telling us about all the paintings. Several other
artists’ works were also displayed. The museum was closed and under renovation
so many painting had been moved to the church. The church had lovely brilliant
stained glass windows on one side only.
A modern stained glass piece was over the door leading to the gift shop.
Antwerp
is an easy city to walk and our city tour was a long and interesting one.
