MITLA and YAGUL

                 Different Archaeological Sites

       Another day we hired a cab to go to Mitla. A couple from Massachusetts, also staying at the B& B joined us. At the end of the day it had cost us twelve dollars each to have a private driver.

    We entered the site through an opening in an unusual cactus fence.       Mitla meaning place of the dead is an ancient Zapotec village that dominated the area in the 1300s. Located on a high plateau it provides a wonderful view of the surrounding valley. As we entered the site we latched on to an English speaking guide, but it was evident that he had a group, not just a random bunch of people. I spotted the gal I thought was the leader, and since another guide was nowhere in sight,  quietly spoke to her  asking if we could tag along,  and pay her guide when finished. That worked out well for all of us.

      The Mitla ruins are very different from the much larger Monte Alban. We wandered through many rooms of the ruins admiring the intricate geometric designs on the walls known as greca {Greek-like} frets. Some were in very good condition and it took 100,000 stones to create them. Instead of being carved, each is an individual stone. Amazing! It is believed that these designs and techniques are from a Mixtec influence. Mitla hit its apex about 1350 with a population of about 10,000, and remained occupied and in use for generations after the Spanish conquest.

     Several very steep narrow steps lead up to a room containing six large monolithic columns that once supported a roof. On each side of the palace of columns is a long room with restored lashed bamboo roofs. The greca frets were in particularly good condition here.

A tomb was open for inspection but to enter one practically had to crawl as the opening was but 40-45 inches high.

       In 1592 the Spanish built a church which today continues to serve the present town of San Pablo Villa de Mitla. Builders used the original temple stones from Mitla to build the church. A large crystal chandelier hung on a rope thrown over a beam of the bell tower. We left the church just as some sort of service was starting.

       On the way back to Oaxaca we asked the driver to stop at Yagul, Zapotec meaning old tree. These ruins were different from either of the others. Only six miles from Mitla and sharing similar architectural details, the size and complexity of its buildings suggest it was an independent city/state. Archaeological evidence indicates that Yagul was occupied for about 1000 years until around 1100-1200 AD.

      The Palace of Six Patios has three identical complexes of two patios each. In each patio, rooms surround a central courtyard. The northerly patio of each complex was more private and probably a residence where the other more open rooms may have served administrative needs. It was almost like a maze to walk among the rooms and a couple of times we did have to backtrack.

      A large ball field is included in the site. It was a clear day and the views of the valley were great. However, it was very hot and we all decided we did not need to climb to the top for a view that probably was not much better but perhaps more panoramic.

MOUTE ALBAN, OAXACA

                                    Huge Area

      A few of us hired a van to take us to Monte Alban, meaning white mountain. After paying our 38 peso admission fee we hired a local docent to escort us around and tell us all about the ruins.

     The spectacular mountain city (6500’) of Monte Alban, about ten miles out of town, is Mexico’s largest and possibly most significant archaeological site. In an unbelievable feat of engineering the hilltop was leveled to build the ceremonial center of the Zapotec Empire. During its 1200 year reign, it was capital of the Zapotecs from 500 BC--750 AD. The mingled smell of dust and herbs from the shrubbery greet the visitor as the wind blows off the bare hills.

Panoramic views of green mountains are seen from the clusters of temples on the North Platform. The main plaza situated on a north-south axis is 1000 feet long and 2/3 as wide. Building J (OAD) at the foot of the south plaza was possibly an astronomical observatory that is estimated to be 2000 years old.    

       The guide told us, “The Zapotec peoples were farmers who cultivated corn, beans, squash, chili and fruit on hillsides of the adjacent valleys. Occasionally they would dine on fresh meat from deer or other small game. Only a small area has been excavated, and 176 tombs have been discovered.

       “Archaeologists have divided the site into five periods when walls, plazas and walkways were added. Period I is from 500 BC to 0 AD. An advanced culture with gods, temples, a priesthood have been discovered. Writing as well as numbers and a calendar existed. The home designs indicate a multi-layered society. The danzantes (dancers) buildings were decorated with unique bas-relief.”

        The main plaza is huge and a clap of the hands proved the echo and acoustics to be fantastic. The Zapotecs had no stringed instruments, only wind instruments and drums.

       Nubby barked cotton trees were shedding small amounts of white fluff. Beautiful Indian laurel trees on site were 1000 years old. I asked about a rather scrubby tree with white flowers, and was told they were huaje trees.

       Walking he continued, “Period II covers from 0-300 AD. A heavy Chiapas and Guatemalan influence appeared. They built strange ship-shaped buildings. A jade bat god has been attributed to this era. Period III covers the years between 300-800. This is the time when the area reached its apex with a probable population of 40,000 covering a three square-mile area spread over the hilltops. The hilltop you see today was built during this period. The buildings had handsome sloping staircases, corniced walls, gods, monumental carvings, and hieroglyph-inscribed stelae depicting kings and heroic scenes of battles. Ball courts/ fields with 20-foot

Fantastic stone work

elevated walkways around them are evident. A decline started in 800 and by 1000 AD the site was nearly abandoned. Why? It is speculated that drought, disease, or revolt may have been the reason, or the lack of water, wood, salt and a food supply also may have been factors.”

        During Periods IV and V Mixtecs from the north invaded the valley of Oaxaca and became rulers of many small city-states. A mixture of Mixtec and Zapotec art and architecture appeared, and Monte Alban became a refuge and burial ground.

       There are thousands of archeological sites in Mexico. There are still 17 ethnic groups in Oaxaca. When the Spanish arrived, many ancient temples were destroyed and churches built on top of the old foundations. In Monte Alban there were no rooms or chambers in the temples. The Zapotecs chose the top of the mountain to be closest to God. They believed in a he and she god. The original rock walls were covered over with stucco hiding motifs in the colors of nature. The site, plundered for years, became a protected site in 1910.

       People slept on the floor. When they died the body was wrapped in a cloth and placed in a tomb. Dishes were left with the body to nourish it on its journey and new sandals made the long journey easier.  

      Tumba 7 (7^th tomb), a few hundred feet below the visitor center, is where in 1450 Mixtec nobles removed the original 8^thcentury contents and reused the tomb to bury a deceased dignitary and two servants. Along with the bodies they left a fabulous treasure of gold, silver, jade, alabaster and turquoise. These jewels now are at the Museo de Oaxaca, also known as Santo Domingo Museum housed in the old convent. We visited the museum on another day.

     The visitor center had a small museum, café with a fantastic view, information counter and a store with a good selection of books. Monte Alban was a fantastic visit and learning experience!