PINKAS SYNAGOFUE

                          A Couple of  Prague's Synagogues 

            In Prague we learned that Jews were free until the 13^th century, then they were confined to the Ghetto until the 18^th century. Men wore a yellow hat, women a yellow scarf. Armbands were worn until the 16^th century.

            Street paving and general improvements were made to the Ghetto in the 16^th century. The area housed six synagogues. The oldest synagogue, built in 1270, is orthodox. The Pinkas Synagogue, 1519-35, is now a museum. The town hall was saved after the flood in the 19^th century.

             Inside, on the walls are the names of 80,000 Jews who were exterminated during the holocaust! It took four years to accomplish the writing of the names. At first glance it almost looked like stripped wallpaper. Names in red are those from Prague and are designated with a yellow star, and a whole family is printed in black. There is way too much black.

Of the 40,000 Jews taken from Prague only 1000 returned after the war. But instead of returning to the Ghetto, they settled in other neighborhoods. The present Jewish population in Prague is between 1-2000.

A Jewish cemetery is behind the synagogue and the oldest stone is dated 1439. The small cemetery was used until 1787, and in some areas contains twelve layers. As bodies disintegrated, the ground sank, and in time dirt was hauled in so another body could be placed on top.

    Eventually there were five layers of bodies. As the weather loosened stones, they floated on top of one another. Now the cemetery is just a mass of jumbled stones.            Over the centuries, four architectural styles of stones can be seen. Mr. Maisel and Rabbi Lowe are buried here. There are nearly 12,000 gravestones in the cemetery yard.

   Later in the day outside the Maisel Synagogue, it was explained, “This was a private synagogue built by the Mayor of the Jewish Town, Mordechai Maisel, who funded the extensive Renaissance reconstruction of the ghetto.”

A fire in 1689 resulted in much damage, and it was rebuilt in Baroque style. It was rebuilt again in a pseudo-Gothic design by Prof. A Grott in 1893-1905. All that remained intact of the original Renaissance layout was the ground-plan of the tripartite central hall with the upper-story women´s section During WW II it was used to store gold and other treasures. It is a very different structure and has a much different feel than the Pinkas Synagogue

This was a sobering day but a memorable one!

NOTRE DAME

                        A Paris Historic Landmark

            As stated before it is not my intent to dwell much on well known famous landmarks. Although I include them in my must-see category, I like to find the little known facts about such sites. The following hopefully will tell you something new about this lovely church.

            The gothic beauty of Notre Dame dominates the River Seine as well as the history of Paris. The famous church, started in 1163, was not completely finished until 1345.  Located at the geographic center of Paris, all distances have been measured from Notre Dame since 1768.

            Notre Dame is the cathedral of the Catholic Archdiocese of Paris and  is the church that contains the official chair of the Archbishop of Paris.          

The Celts had sacred ground at the site and later a Roman temple to Jupiter was built on the grounds, followed by a Christian church, a basilica, and a Romanesque church. The church has a long history. Crusaders prayed here before going off to the Holy Wars. Polyphonic music was developed here. Notre Dame was pillaged during the revolution, but the great bell avoided meltdown. The 13-ton bell, housed in the south tower, is only rung on major Catholic feast days. All of the bells have names. For the hardy individual, one can climb the 387 steps to the top of the towers.

            There was a time when the church was used as a warehouse and storage of food. Napoleon crowned himself emperor and Josephine empress here. In the 19^th century the church fell into disrepair. Victor Hugo was instrumental in a campaign to restore the church and the project was started in 1844, lasting 23 years. The spires were added and houses were demolished to afford a better view and to make room for a plaza. Gargoyles on the façade look down on the activity below and actually are carved gutters.  Notre Dame is a spectacular symbol of medieval Paris.

The building measures 420-feet long. The twin towers are 225-feet high. The 295-foot high spire was added in the 19^th century. The story of the bible is retold in the portals, paintings and stained glass. The large rose glass windows are spectacular. The northern 13th century window is massive, measuring 13-meters. There are 28 statues, Gallery of Kings, on the western front. Roman ruins are underneath.  General de Gaulle prayed for thanksgiving here after Paris was liberated in WW II.  In 1991 a ten-year program of maintenance and restoration was started.  

            The Cathedral is an impressive building and a landmark of Paris. I have enjoyed all of my three visits.