ST SAVIOR CHURCH OF SPILT BLOOD

                   St Petersburg, Russia Highlights

We moored at a pier in the Neva River about 45 minutes from the heart of the city. There was a subway nearby and we were cautioned to be careful with our belongings when using it. Most of the many trips we made we used a bus shuttle which besides being comfortable gave us a chance to view the scenery along the way.

You may remember my post on the Yusopov Palace months ago(You can locate it in the blog archives in July 2012). St Petersburg is such a fabulous city.

St. Savior Church of Spilt Blood, also known as the Church of Resurrection or Assumption Church, is a takeoff on St. Basil’s. A local guide told us, “In 1881 Alexander II, age 63 and after a 26 year reign, was assassinated on the site of the church. After a parade, Alexander was riding in an English built bulletproof carriage when a bomb was thrown at the carriage. No damage was done to the carriage, but Alexander stepped out of the carriage just in time to take a second bomb that blew off both his legs causing him to bleed to death.

“The church is very unusual architecture for St. Petersburg. His son, Alexander III, refused numerous church designs as he wanted something truly Russian. This Byzantine design church won his approval. Funds for the church were raised by the people. It took 24 years, 1883-1907, to build.”

We had to walk down a street the bus could not navigate to get to the church. Both the outside and inside are covered with incredible mosaics, wall to wall and floor to ceiling. It really is quite beautiful. The Church contains over 7500 square meters of  mosaic pictures. The intricate detailed main pictures are biblical and each is surrounded with a finely patterned border, setting it apart from the next one. The artistry and workmanship was mind boggling.

The church was closed in 1930 and remained closed for 30 years when churches were being destroyed in Russia. A massive 27-year restoration project was completed in 1997. When in St. Petersburg it is a must see.

CROATIA

                               Croatia Overview

            Croatia is about the size of West Virginia. About 90% of the country’s population is Catholic and 5% are Serbs. The coastal areas of the country feel more Mediterranean than Eastern European. The currency is the Kune (Kn). One US dollar equals 5 Kn. A kuna is a fox-like animal that goes back to medieval times. The currency was changed to kuna in 1994.

            In the country of spectacular scenery, nude beaches are no big deal. They are labeled FKK, German for free body. The Croatian shrug means don’t know, don’t care.

            Except for Dubrovnik and Zadar, the coast was generally untouched by the recent war. However, it is advisable to stay on paths and avoid deserted villages, or tall grass fields.

            In upper Croatia Slavic influence and traits left from Austrian rule are evident, where the coastal areas portray a Roman and Venetian past. There are no specific Croatian foods as it is influenced by Italian, Turk and Hungarian cuisine. The common element is lots of meat. Food is a flavorful blend of Mediterranean and Slavic.  Prosciutto, Italian-style ham, is unrivaled anywhere. Pork leg, smoked and dried, is served with dry cheese. 

            Meat is smoked in a traditional indoor fireplace called a komin. Meals are often cooked ‘under a bell’ over hot coals. I liken this similar to an imu. Meat cooked this way is very tender but vegetables on the bottom tend to be a bit oily. Desserts most often include figs, dates, almonds, and honey. On the coast seafood is popular and plentiful. Inland, burel (phyllo dough) filled with meat, cheese, apples or spinach, is popular. These are especially good when fresh but tend to get greasy as they sit. The big meal is eaten at noon and many stores close afterward for siesta.  Croatians refer to the country as Hrvatska. The crescent or C shaped country has a population of 4.5 million. During the Homeland War between 1991-95 nearly five percent of the population left. A million Croats live outside of the country in other parts of the old Yugoslavia.  Forty percent of the country is mountainous and 30 percent is forested. The breadbasket is in the north. Road construction was common in Croatia and signage was poor----another manana.land.

            Croatia has 372 miles of coast line as the crow flies, but when one counts all the coves it expands to 1100 miles. Only 66 of the 1185 islands in the Adriatic are inhabited. Beaches in Croatia are not sandy, but pebbly and rocky. We were told that is how the Croats like it. The coastline is rocky with many cliffs that fall right into the sea. Croatia actually has more mountains than Switzerland, although Swiss mountains are higher. There is almost no where in Croatia that one cannot see mountains.

            Grape vineyards and olive groves thrive in the red soil around Pula. Strong Turkish coffee is common here but picturesque sidewalk coffee cafes were few in this town.

            Our guide told us, “During Europe’s 30-year war, 1618-1648, Croats were sent to Paris. They wore a scarf in a unique way. The French intrigued with the fashion adopted it. The French word cravat means tie, and thus the tie was born.”

            We visited many small cities in Croatia and their unique qualities are spotlighted in other posts.