PERUVAN CITIES

                                               LIMA

         Pizarro founded Lima, along the banks of the Rimac River, in 1535. The colonial port on the Pacific Ocean was basically a small city for 400 years, and for 300 years the capitol of Spain’s South American Empire. The population explosion, started in the 1920s, has now swelled Lima into a bustling crowded city with a population of 7 million. One third of the country’s population lives in the huge metropolitan, capitol city. As such it is overcrowded, noisy and polluted. Heavy traffic is a constant.

Shantytowns that lack electricity, water, or adequate sanitary facilities have been created by the influx of poor people and surround this City of Kings. Several upscale suburbs are located 10-12 Ks outside the central city.

            Lima was the richest and most powerful town in colonial times. The many downtown colonial buildings and plazas bespeak the city’s past as the political and economic center of the Spanish colonies in South America.  A disastrous 1746 earthquake destroyed the city. However rebuilding was rapid, so most of the colonial buildings date from after that earthquake.

Plaza de Armas, renamed Plaza de Mayor a few years ago, is the heart of Lima, and from there one can angle out in any direction. It is the city’s administrative and political center. Located here is the Government Palace, City Hall, and the Cathedral.      

In 1551 the University of San Marcus was established and was one of the first universities in South America. The city today is full of museums, and churches.

Pickpockets and slashers are rampant in all crowded places in Peru. Snatching of watches and cameras is common, as well as the slashing of backpacks and fanny-packs. One should always be aware of his environment and what’s around him, but being on high alert all the time sure diminishes one’s enjoyment of any city. 

                                              AGUAS CALIENTES 

Most people, who are more sensible, take the train to Aguas Calientas and spend the night before taking a bus up to Machu Picchu the next morning. Instead we spent four days hiking to the site entering it through the sun gate, or the back door.  After an extended stay at the site,we took the that bus over the 8-kilometer dusty switchback dirt road to Aguas Calientes where we boarded a train in late afternoon.           

Aguas Calientes could be any border town. Close your eyes and give it any name you like.  It’s a dusty, dingy, poor, little town. The main street is lined with vendor shacks, all with the same tourist articles for sale. Show even the slightest interest and one is greeted with, “Senora”, followed by a stream of Spanish, which I never could follow.  I just didn’t have the energy to look at the same old, same old.

We made our way to the recommended restaurant where we took a sidewalk seat and ordered a sandwich and a cool Inca cola. While we relaxed, shoeshine boys came along and we let them remove the trail dust and dirt. They were a couple of 15-year-olds who seemed small for their stated age.  The cost of the excellent shine was one sol. We tipped the fellows well and they were happy campers.

While keeping an eagle eye on our belongings (as instructed to do) we visited and people watched while waiting for time to board the train. We were all glad we’d chosen the hike over the train ride and a stay in this village.

MIRAFLORES,PERU

                                        A Suburb of Lima

       I hate arriving in a strange city in the dark, but that is pretty much the case when traveling to Central or South America. After what seemed a very long time driving along a narrow curvy road bordering  water with not a single streetlight or building in site I was one happy camper to see the lights of Miraflores!

     Miraflores,  a bedroom community of Lima,  is where our hotel was located. The next morning we stopped at a pharmacy across the street from the hotel to buy some foot powder. What a surprise to find it all closed off with steel grating and to learn we had to stand on the sidewalk and make out request known to the clerk inside. No checking the merchandise here! It was unnerving and a pretty uncomfortable feeling.

     We had been assured it was safe to walk the area in daylight. As we made our way toward the waterfront I noted there seemed to be a bank on every street corner—and they came with a pair guards armed with assault rifles wearing bullet proof vests outside each door!

     We soon came to a nice little park with paved walkways and a church that was the focal point of the park. An art exhibit lined much of the pedestrian walkway. Shops and restaurants lined the streets surrounding the park. We were feeling more comfortable.

     We were in no hurry as we had the whole day while we waited for the rest of our hikers to arrive. After a leisurely lunch we strolled on a bit farther and found Parque Salazar which was our original destination.   

As we approached the park we spotted what looked like a huge candle shaped sculpture. On closer inspection, we saw three of them. They were mirror covered and the shape changed as one moved around them. They reflected the buildings across the street, and the reflections changed in shape and size depending on one’s position. These unique structures fascinated me.

A ramp led to a lookout viewing area, and we were surprised to find a lovely four-level shopping- restaurant complex with all kinds of views of the ocean. Navy blue uniformed security guards were found everywhere. It was not cold, but a bit on the cool side. Later we were to learn that it was typical Lima weather. Most of the year a coastal fog called garua blocks the sun. Locals told us that Lima never needs a weather forecast, because the weather is always the same. The only rain the city ever gets is a fine mist.

Before heading back to the hotel we made our way to the banos. What a pleasant surprise to find them clean and well stocked with an attendant wiping up every drop of water. As it turned out, these were the best bathrooms we would see for two weeks!

Public bathrooms hardly exist in Peru except in transportation buildings, and then they were most often dirty.  Most bathrooms had no supplies, so be prepared!  Decently equipped bathrooms were found only in the very best hotels and restaurants.

Because Peruvian plumbing leaves a lot to be desired, all toilets had a plastic trashcan nearby for the deposit of TP. Flushing paper can clog the plumbing and cause an overflow. Nearly all the time there was only a commode; for some reason toilet seats were few and far between. Then on the other hand, the plain ole hole in the ground wasn’t all that uncommon!

As we approached the hotel we stopped at a store to buy bottle water—a must in all of Peru. While there I was curious to try an Inca Cola.  Because it was in a glass bottle we had to drink it on the premises. The yellow drink tastes a lot like a crème soda and was quite good.

Because of 9-11 a couple of weeks later, we never made it back to Lima to continue our sightseeing as we flew home from Lake Titicaca.