Jokhang Temple
This 1300-year-old temple is located in the oldest part of Lhasa, Tibet. What a cultural event! We saw people walking around twirling prayer wheels and people chanting as they fingered prayer beads. Prayer beads contain 108 beads and the chant sounds like Om Mani Padme Hum which in Tibetan refers to the precious pearl on Buddha, the red water hill, and a clean heart to take me home.
Seeing the throngs of pilgrims was a peek into a totally different culture. Outside the temple were two prayer poles covered with prayer scarves and prayer flags. On each side of the temple huge incense burners belched smoke. The aroma of incense permeated the whole city.
Our Tibetan guide explained, “Tibetans pray with their thumbs inside the palms with palms together. Then they touch the forehead for mind, the lips for speech and the chest for the body. The motion is quick from forehead, to lip, to chest.”
We observed many outside the temple prostrating themselves to Buddha. Shoes were removed. Women tied their skirts. After doing the prayer bit they fell to their knees, usually on a mat, put their hands palm down on pads and slid forward flat onto the pad. That was repeated over and over. Later when walking the square we saw pilgrims prostrating themselves every few steps. People paid no attention and simply walked around them.
The main gate of the temple faces west toward Nepal. The door fronts of the inner chapel date to the 7th century. In 1950 Red Guards shelled and ransacked the temple. Part of the damage has been restored. The present temple dates to the 17th century.
As we walked clockwise around the inner of three halls we passed long long lines of pilgrims waiting to put yak butter into various burning candles and to peek into the many small chapels that were off the hall. We were told it was not uncommon to take 4-5 hours to complete the circuit.
Large metal vats of of yak candles with 5-6 wicks the size of my little finger burned all over the temple. Many find that aroma offensive, so we all took the advice of our guide and used the tiger balm under our nose we’d purchased at the herb market. However, I found the incense aroma a lot more troublesome.
It was very dark, dank and damp inside the temple. Wall paintings depicted Tibetan history. The inner hall murals date to 1648, while the murals on the outer walls are 19th century.
Large baskets, bigger than a bushel basket, filled with money, were located in many areas in the temple. Most of the bills were small, but people could make any donation that they desired. We were assured that no one would steal money from the temple. In 2001 Jokhard Temple was designated a UNESCO site. Some restoration has taken place since then.
Originally it was undecided where to build the temple. Some high priest threw a gold ring which landed on a sand bar in a swampy area. This was considered a good omen. Goats carried dirt in baskets to fill in the swamp so the temple that was originally called the goat dirt temple.
Eventually we worked our way around to the 7th century golden Buddha for which the temple was built. I was actually glad to see sunlight as we left the temple.
Surrounding the Jokhang Temple is the Barkhor Baazar. Most of the venders and hawkers displayed the same merchandise. Prayer wheels, prayer beads, jewelry (junk) and small brass objects dominated the marketplace.
This was an interesting visit. One I’m glad I did as it gave me a better understanding into another culture and religion.
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