My Stay in a Brothel
When I went to Churchill, Manitoba I chose a particular trip because it included a couple of days at the White Whale Lodge, where mothers and cubs are most often seen.
A helicopter transported us, a few at a time, across the Churchill River to the lodge, built in the early 1900s. The rustic bunkhouse contained a large main room, several small rooms, each with two bunk beds (slept 4), a dining room, and a kitchen. At the time the lodge was built, Churchill was on the east side of the river. The town moved across the river in the early 1930s after the completion of the grain facility.
Although the bears are wonderful and beautiful animals, everyone is very conscious that they are wild animals. Flares moved the bears away from the immediate helicopter landing area. To be on the safe side, a fellow stood by with a loaded rifle. Transfers from the helicopter to the lodge were quick. When all were inside, the barred gate was replaced. In 1960 Hollywood filmed Savage Image with Anthony Quinn and (I think) Peter O’Toole at the lodge.
When my daughter picked me up at the airport on my return she said, “You look like you had a good trip, Mom.”
“I did! You know I slept in a brothel two nights.”
Her eyes got big and she abruptly stopped walking saying, “You did WHAT?”
Then, of course, I had to explain that during the time 3000 men were building the grain facility, the lodge was used as a brothel. Most everything at the lodge was run on butane. A generator was turned on, for a few hours in the evening, so we could watch slides and videos about the bears. Hudson Bay and the Churchill River, surround the cabin on three sides. A rocky cliff, borders the north side. One reaches the area by small boat or helicopter. Looking out the window at the bay, with its rough water and white caps, one could be anywhere.
It seemed a bit strange to have the humans behind bars and the animals loose. All the windows and the two small porches were covered with bear proof steel bars.
This afforded us a good and safe viewing area to watch and photograph the bears. A mother and her two cubs kept us entertained, off and on, for two solid days. We were in and out of warm jackets and gear several times a day, and it was always so nice to return to the warm interior of the cabin.
The cubs teethed on the bars, and stuck their paws through the spaces. They played like playful kittens. It was great fun to watch them spar, and to stand on their hind legs and box with each other. They are very curious animals and easily entertain themselves.
The food at the lodge was outstanding. The chef out did himself with delicious hot meals, no simple sandwiches here! The chef’s regular job was cooking for inmates at a jail. He has taken his vacation at this time for several years to spend at the lodge cooking for inmates of a different kind. He loves being with the bears and meeting visitors to Churchill.
The lodge is open only four weeks a year, and is available only to small groups. It was a wonderful experience that has given me some fun stories! It has been amusing to watch people’s reaction to the tales of my stay in a brothel.
