Saturday, May 15, 2010

CHAIN BRIDGE

An Interesting History     
In Budapest, Hungary, the Szechenyi Chain Bridge, built in 1849, was the first permanent bridge over the Danube River.

In the 1800s Count Szechenyi went to London where he was living the life of a playboy. When his father died, he went home for the funeral, but because the Danube was frozen, he could not get across the river and was unable to attend his father’s funeral.

 This experience so upset him that it changed his life. He remained home in Budapest and became one of the leading figures in the city during the last half of the 19th century.  The pontoon bridge prior to the chain bridge had to be removed when ships passed, and it also was at the mercy of storms. A Scotsman, Adam Clark, was   commissioned to come to Budapest to oversee the massive construction project of building a permanent bridge across the river. Clark liked the city so much, he remained there for the rest of his life.

During WW II, 80% of the city was bombed.  Still the Nazis blew up all the bridges before retreating from the city. The Chain Bridge was the first bridge rebuilt after the war. It reopened in November 1949, exactly one hundred years after the first opening. Two years after the war ended, all the bridges in the city across the Danube had been rebuilt.

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

SITKA, ALASKA

 A Charming Historic Town
Once the capitol of Russian America, Sitka is a charming small town at the northern end of most Inland Passage cruise destinations. It has a fascinating history and plenty to see and do, other than shopping, to fill your day. All major sites in this walkable city can be covered . Like all small cities along the Inland Passageway, Sitka exhibits magnificent scenery.

Two things I wanted my grandchildren to see were St. Michael’s, the Russian Orthodox Church, and the New Archangel Dancers, and I wanted to hike a bit in the National Forest.

Although I visited several Russian Orthodox churches in Russia I still learned a couple of things from the knowledgeable docent. He explained the three-bar Russian cross.
I had never seen or known about a riza, an exact replica of an icon done in 3-D shiny metal. Only body parts are left uncovered. The removable riza gives a glittery view of the icon while protecting it.
During the 1966 fire, people fled to the church to carry out the 16th century icons, a 400-pound chandelier and the heavy oak entrance doors.
The U.S. Metropolitan, similar to a Catholic Cardinal, was due to arrive at . We made it back to the church to witness his unpretentious arrival.

The New Archangel Dancers perform authentic Russian dances at Centennial Hall. None of the female dancers is a professional nor of Russian heritage. They dance for exercise, fun and to keep Sitka’s Russian heritage alive though dance. As I admired their agility, I wished I could squat and kick at the same time!

It’s a short walk to Castle Hill and the 92 steps up to the site where Russia passed Alaska to the United States. There is nothing left of Baranof’s castle and the fort is little more than a wall, a cannon and an American flag.  Across the street, on the old Russian parade grounds, is Pioneer House, a home for the indigent to live. Once free, there now is a sliding payment scale. The home is similar to our old Soldier and Sailor Homes.

Walking the mile-long totem loop-trail in the Tongass National Forest was a delight. We studied the 28 totems and paused at the site of the 1804 Russian-Tlingit battle.

Strolling back along
Lincoln Street
—the main street—we photographed St. Peter’s by the Sea, the Russian Bishop’s house, the oldest house in Sitka, and some park statuary before stopping at a hatchery.

The Sheldon Jackson Museum was a real jewel of a find. The first concrete building in Sitka, 1895, houses Indian artifacts and history of six native Alaskan tribes. Mary Bear was on site making Christmas decorations from seal skin and elk. She showed and explained an otter head belt that is traditionally given to a girl at menses.

Each city along the Inland Passage has something different to offer, but Sitka is probably my favorite city.


Sunday, May 9, 2010

HOMBREW

THEY CAN BE POTENT
            
Although I have never experienced any American moonshine, I have experienced home brew concoctions in several places as I’ve traveled around the world.
           
In Budapest we were welcomed with an aperitif glass filled with a liquid called puszta. It was explained, “Puszta is used to welcome a friend and is made with white Tokay wine, apricot brandy and bitters. It is usually homemade.” What a nice welcome and although not much of a drinker I did enjoy the drink.
           
In Bulgaria the brandy-like drink is called rakiu and definitely should be sipped.  In Romania the home brew is a plum brandy. For some reason home brews always seem pretty potent to me.

In Davos, Switzerland I had a cherry-brandy that was really really strong. Its strength certainly could be compared to the strong grape-brandy I was handed in Croatia.
          
  In Finland, we were offered Lakka, a cloudberry liqueur schnapps. I thought it was very good. A cloudberry  looks something like a raspberry, but is salmon-orange in color and its bumps are larger.


Kir, originated in French cafes mid 19th century, is a popular drink in many places. It was further popularized by Felix Kir after World War II when he, as  mayor of Dijon, served the drink to promote his region's fine wines, and the name Kir has been associated with the drink ever since. There are many variations, but generally kir is made with a 1:9 ratio of white wine, often Chablis, and cassis. I’m not sure how the restaurant owner in Nice, France made his kir but I found it pretty potent.
            
When asked if I drink these various drinks, I respond, “After one sip I generally can find someone close by or at my table who is happy to finish it  for me so I don’t appear rude by not drinking it. There was one exception though, and that was the home-brew vodka made by the 80-year-old grandmother in Uglich, Russia. She had a magic touch and her vodka was very good.”
           
I’ll no doubt run into other drinks as I continue to travel and I’ll be game to at least give them a sip.