THE BEST LAID PLANS

              Unexpected Surprise 

When I agreed to accompany my friend to the Sea of Cortez I did have one condition:  we return via the Copper Canyon Railroad instead of flying home. We flew from LaPaz across the Sea of Cortez to Los Mochias, Mexico. Some literature we had picked up told us Los Mochias is a melting pot for Indian, Mexican, Chinese, Japanese, and Americans. A prosperous agricultural area, 40% of the population is involved in farming. Two million tons of sugar is processed here from sugar cane each year. The area is the number one producer of wheat and rice in Mexico.

I had made all the return trip arrangements through an allegedly reputable travel company in San Antonio. We picked up a cab outside the airport for the two and half-hour drive to El Fuerte.

When we checked in at the El Fuerte Lodge where we had vouchers we learned the fellow  in San Antonio has not paid any of our bills and our vouchers all along the way  were void.

            Shocked I responded, “You’re kidding, right?”

            “No, I’m afraid not. That fellow is a crook. He has changed the name of his company several times and is well known in these parts. You’re not the first to be taken. I can get you a hotel room here. That is no problem, and I can secure train tickets for tomorrow. Give me the rest of your vouchers and I’ll send faxes to the hotels ahead to make sure you’ll have a room, but you’ll have to pay each time you check in.”

            Well, there’s a first time for everything. The fellow in El Fuerte happened to be an American who had lived there for a couple of decades so language was no problem. He was super nice and most accommodating to a couple of little old ladies—well not really little or old. He accepted a check for the hotel, meals and train tickets.

            The hotel was lovely and the city is a picturesque old colonial one. It was a holiday of some sort so we watched a parade and some street performers and dancers before heading off on a short hike up to the old fort.

The city was established as a fort in the late 1500’s to protect the colonists from native North American attacks. Lake Miguel del Hidalgo is a man-made lake 15 ½  X 6 miles. The dam, built in 1956, was expanded in 1963. The lake holds 350 million cubic meters of water and houses a hydroelectric plant which generates 270 million kilowatts of electricity a year. The view from the old fort showed us the river and lake below. A slight breeze made the temperature comfortable and pleasant as we looked down on the quaint city below.

The next day, after an early breakfast, we walked to the train station to board the train at 7:30 AM. We were on our way.

Next time the journey.

MY 9/11 STORY

Getting Home After 9/11

      I’m sure you've heard many 9/11 stories and of course I have one also. My son and I unknowingly started the trek on the old Inca road on that frightful day. It would be three days before we’d even learn about the towers. Since this was the purpose of our trip. I often wondered what we might have done if we had known before starting the trail. Of course at that point all air traffic was halted so we might as well have gone ahead with our plans, as the saying goes we would have been stranded.

     But we did not know until we arrived at Machu Picchu. We continued with our plans to go on to Puno, Peru to visit Lake Titicaca and the Eros people. My son felt he should get home and back to work so we decided after that to cut the trip short by a couple of days, bypass La Paz, Bolivia and fly home.

   In Puno, the guide took me to a travel agent who managed to get flight tickets to Lima. If we could get to Lima we could use our original tickets to get home. We tried to keep our minds on the trip but we became concerned the day before we were to leave Puno as all transportation was threatening a strike. If that happened it would mean no cab, train, or bus service. Not sure about the flights but the airport was a good distance away and we had to get there.

    There is no point in worrying about things you have no control over so we went to bed and slept well, B U T was I happy to wake to the sound of horns honking! Cabs were running so differences obviously had been settled.

    Arriving in Lima we found airport security extremely tight and the airport crowded. I wove my way through the mob of people looking for an English speaking employee. I finally found an attendant I could communicate with and he took me directly to the Continental counter. The gal there couldn’t have been more pleasant or helpful. She managed to get us on the same flight but two days early. She made a tough situation easy, and believe me I’ll not forget her kindness.

    Like everyone else I’ll always remember where I was on that frightful day. There is no place like the US and it was good to be home.

TRAVEL MEMENTOS

                                     Key Ring to Wreath Ornament

       Everyone wants to bring home a memento from their trip, but as I got older and traveled more I developed a real jaundiced eye for where I spent my money: where would I put it; what would I do with it; use it; ever look at it again?

        Except for a very narrow space around a hall closet where I hung small oils or prints of memorable churches I simply ran out  out of wall space. When the churches ran down below level even that had to stop.

        After buying a shot glass at Balmoral Castle and  one from Cuba they became the main post for a rather extensive collection.Three times I had a local wood working shop make me a case to hold 24-30 glasses to fit in various office wall spaces.Twice a year on a dull rainy day it is fun to dust that collection and remember many fun and interesting places.

           I don't clothes or shoe shop, but I do sometimes do a little Christmas shopping for friends and family. I also buy unique ear rings, not expensive jewelry that can be bought anywhere. My unique ear rings are never seen on anyone else.

           But my favorite item to look for and buy is a key ring specific to where I am visiting.When I get home the ring is removed and is replaced with a gold string. Then it is hung on my Christmas wreath. During the year the wreath hangs on the back wall of a closet where it is always ready for a new ornament. On Thanksgiving the wreath moves to the front foyer by the front door  where I enjoy it until late January.

           All my treasures are easily packed in my 22-inch roll-on and arrive home safely with no fuss.

           Perhaps these ideas will give you inspiration for your own unique collections.

NUREMBERG, GERMANY

                            An Interesting City

We arrived in Nuremberg on a Sunday, and in Germany Sunday is a family day, no question about it.  The shops were closed. However a local city guide showed us the important sites.

The medieval foundation was built on Roman ruins. Nuremberg means stony hill and the first settlement was built on a hill. The first documents in 1050 mentioned when a slave was freed. That was unusual as most documents then referred to trade or war. The medieval trade route was lost when a sea route developed, and the city became part of Bavaria under Napoleon.

Nuremberg is the second largest city in Bavaria and capitol of Franconia. The 16^th century zigzag fortification walls were designed by an Italian architect. By the 19^th century the entire city was still behind the city walls. In January 1945, 525 British Lancaster bombers bombed the city, so much of the city’s medieval splendor was lost in the ashes of WW II. Dresden is the only city that received more war devastation.

 For years the city’s name conjured up a recollection of the infamous Nuremberg war trials. That is now soft-pedaled as the city has many other things to offer. However, our first stop was the Party Rally Grounds of the Nazi Third Reich 

The 11 square kilometer grounds were built between 1933-38 for the Nazi conventions held each September. The convention center resembles the Roman Coliseum, which is no coincidence. Built between 1935-42 it is 40 meters high, but was never finished to its intended 60 meters. Besides being built to impress, it also was built to seat 50,000 people. Hitler intended the granite-fronted building to be a monument forever. Located next to a lake, the center’s reflection gives the impression it’s even larger. At the time these grounds were built unemployment in Germany was 33%, and it gave many people a job.

The field was meant to accommodate 100,000 spectators and 70,000 participants. A huge golden swastika was removed from the lecture area by the allies. Pillars were also removed, possibly because they also had swastika imprints on them. The whole Nazi movement was a combination of fascination and violence. The SS barracks were occupied by American soldiers and new refugees from 1945-92.

Nuremberg was a rich important city because it was an important trade route, and it was close to the Emperor who held his first diet (imperial meetings) here. Today the city has a full democratic council. Nuremberg, an industrial town, is known for its toys, and many other handcrafts with excellent workmanship.

As we traveled the city I noted a marked contrast as the architecture changed from modern boxy construction to old medieval buildings. It was almost like a curtain had been dropped in some areas.

The Imperial Castle (Kaiserburg) was the residence of German kings and emperors. We walked up a cobbled incline to the entrance where we stopped while our guide explained, “An enemy had to climb this ascending wooden bridge that made it hard to run, but if he was successful, he immediately ran into a stone wall here. The ascending walk inside made it easy for the inhabitants to roll a burning fireball down on to the enemy, and if that failed there were holes in the ceiling where hot oil could be poured on the trespassers below. But as far as we know none of these things were ever put to use.”

The tower dates to the 11^th century. The inner court contained a deep well, which was guarded. The moat was dry. At the end of the courtyard was a Roman chapel with only one seat---for the emperor.    

  We ended our city tour at Marketsquare that houses the 60-foot high, 1370s stone pyramid fountain where thirty figures are arranged in four tiers. The ironsmith who made the wrought iron fence surrounding the fountain had an apprentice who fell in love with a nobleman’s daughter. Naturally the dad objected to the match. One evening the apprentice disappeared never to be heard from again, but he left a golden journeyman’s ring on the fence. It is said that if one turns the ring it will bring good luck. Because the ring had to be replaced frequently it now is no longer gold.

The churches were all having services so we could only view the facades. The center of the square was covered with several hundred green rabbits—a modern art exhibit.  It was different but at the same time kind of quaint.

This trip to Europe was made during the big heat wave that blanketed the continent. It was hot, hot, hot so we were happy to make it back to the boat to enjoy the air conditioning!

LOOKING FOR DOLPHINS

Bottlenose Dolphins

            Each day in Belize we went looking for dolphin in different locations. Our team was lucky as we found these beautiful creatures every day!  We used a 23-foot boat with a 75 horse power outboard engine and took turns documenting various data.

            When we spotted dolphins we counted the number of animals and the composition of the pod as well as their behavior. We followed them as long as possible noting the beginning and ending times of the sighting. Dolphins are identified by their dorsal fin. In the evening we had a chance to help identify various dolphins---not an easy task!

Because there are no year-round residents at Turneffe Atoll the human impact on the ecosystem and dolphin is minimal. The government owns a few small fishing camps on the atoll which are leased to licensed fishermen who fish mostly for lobster, conch, snapper, grouper, and barracuda. Gill netting and purse-seining are illegal in Belize, so all fishing is small scale.

The mangroves serve as nurseries for baby fish and invertebrates. They are a nutrient source for the sea grass beds which trap sediments from the mangroves. Clear water is essential for the health of the reef. Corals need light to grow and the reef is home to a multitude of fish.

Bottlenose dolphins inhabit temperate and tropical waters throughout the world. There appear to be two ecotypes: an off shore and a coastal form. They can be identified by skull and teeth structure and by blood characteristics.

            Coastal bottlenose dolphins vary in group size ranging from one individual to 30 animals. These animals stay within a limited home range although they may migrate hundreds of miles. The home range of coastal populations may overlap. The offshore ecotype can be observed in larger groups. Atlantic bottlenose dolphins are generally 6-9 feet long and weigh between 136-272 kilograms. They receive their name from their bottle-shaped beak. Their body resembles a torpedo. The coloration ranges from gray to almost black. In warmer climates they exhibit a pink belly when engaged in rigorous activity as a way of releasing heat.

Males reach sexual maturity between 10-12 years; females at 5-12 years. Gestation is 11-12 months and calves nurse 12-18 months.  Females give birth to a single calf. Long term studies show that their lifespan can be 40-50 years. Age is determined by growth layers in a dolphin’s tooth. (Similar to counting the rings on a tree) Bottlenose dolphins are active predators that feed on a wide variety of fish and invertebrates.  In many areas they have adapted their feeding habits to coincide with human activities. They are often seen feeding behind fishing boats and shrimp trawlers. At Turneffe the main activity is lobster and conch fishing.

Bottlenose dolphins are often seen bow riding and body surfing and this may be a means of reducing energy expenditure by allowing the wave motion to carry them forward. However, they also will surf on a wave that takes them in the opposite direction of movement and may suggest that this is a form of play behavior.

Dolphins are highly social and are usually seen in schools.  It has been suggested that learning within the social unit is important and that school behavior is a major component of the animal’s daily activity regime.

Dolphins are mammals and must breath to survive. Unlike most mammals they have no hair but an insulating layer of fat to maintain a constant body temperature of 97-99 degrees. The porpoise is a close relative of the dolphin, but has a blunt snout and a stockier build, not quite as sleek 

This was my first research trip and whetted my appetite to do several other such projects. It was a  fun, learning and active vacation!

AN ALMOST NON LUNCH

 

                       An Open Restaurant  a Welcome Site

          Our Bordeaux city walking tour was a long one,  not ending until close to the end of the lunch hour. Ending at a large square we took a little extra time to study the huge fountain and then to buy a few post cards from a kiosk before heading off to find a restaurant for lunch.

            The city is full of cobbled alleys and sidewalk cafés. We were to learn that most shops close for the lunch hour and the cafés are full of people enjoying food and conversation. As time passed we also learned that by 2:30 PM most cafés close and even the tables and chairs are taken inside. This was beginning to be a problem for four rather hungry gals who were looking forward to lunch.

            Down one alley we finally found a café that took pity on us Americans and served us lunch even though they were about to close. It felt good to sit as we’d been wandering around the city for about four hours.

            I remarked, “I don’t know about you gals, but since we’re not biking today I’m going to have a glass of wine. I’m in France, eating lunch at a sidewalk café on a picturesque cobblestone alley, and this picture needs a little wine to make it complete.”  It was a good choice!

            One does not visit France and expect to find low fat anything, skim milk, cold coke, iced tea, or many other things we take for granted. Diet one does not! You can expect to give your arteries a good jolt with flakey butter-rich pastries, wonderful cheeses, real cream, whole milk, good French bread, and all kinds of fish. I just hoped the good extremely reasonably-priced wines would counteract any adverse affects. My motto was to relax and enjoy. We did!

GREYFRIARS BOBBY and OTHER TALES

       A Faithful Dog and Other Tales

In the Edinburgh Castle bookstore I bought a book about this wonderful dog for my grandchildren. From the castle we walked down the Royal Mile as we both wanted to give the little bronze dog a pat of good luck.

On our city tour the local docent told us, “The statue of a little dog is one of the most photographed statues in the city. The little Skye Terrier was the dog of an Edinburgh policeman known as a bobby. For five years he accompanied his master all over the city on his rounds. Then the policeman died. The gates to the cemetery proclaimed NO DOGS, and the gates were shut the day of the funeral before the little dog could get through them.

“Each day after the one o’clock cannon firing at the castle the little dog walked to the coffeehouse his master often frequented. He continued to be  given a few scrapes to eat. Then he would return to the cemetery where he went to guard his master’s grave. After the first day when the cemetery caretaker saw him he realized the dog was Greyfriars Bobby and ignored the no dogs rule. Every day after that for ten years the little dog would repeat this routine. Often on very cold winter nights a caring person would give him shelter in their home. When the little dog died thirteen years later, an exception was made to allow him to be buried beside his master.”

We stopped to admire the policeman’s faithful friend and of course took advantage of the photo op.

Continuing our walk we window shopped, listened to pipers, and watched mimes. When we reached the Deacon Brodie Pub we stepped inside to admire the lovely ceiling. Brodie, the son of a cabinetmaker, was born on Brodie Close.  The wealthy pious citizen was elected to Deacon Counselor in 1781, but at night he was a gambler and thief.  When working he carried a wax plug in his pocket and pressed impressions of client’s keys into it. Then when he knew the residents were not home, he used a newly made key to enter their home to steal jewelry and money. Eventually he was caught and hanged at St. Giles in 1788. In a twist of fate he was hung by a gallows, which he had improved upon. Both his birthplace and death place are close to the tavern named for him.

One afternoon as a break from sight-seeing we rode a local bus out to the zoo. Unexpectantly we entered the zoo a couple minutes before a penguin parade was to start. We joined the crowd to watch as several attendants walked between the spectators and the penguins. Many little penguins strutted around in orderly fashion just as if they knew they were on display. It was a sweet bonus to the end of a busy day.

BALLENBERG

Eco-museum and Swiss Woodcarving

We took the train from Interlaken, to Ballenberg, Switzerland’s only outdoor museum. I’ve visited many eco-museums which seem to be popular everywhere, but I think Ballenberg was my first. Eighty homes and structures of every Swiss style and from every canton exist on sixteen of the museum’s 77 acres.

The park has many lovely wooded hiking trails. All kinds of exhibits and demonstrations were taking place on the grounds. I personally found the lace making and herbal medicine exhibits of particular interest. Others enjoyed the bread making and blacksmith.

Opened in 1978 the museum is open only from Easter to late October. Many of the houses were over 100 years old and had been lovingly restored. There is the inevitable gift shop and two restaurants on the premises. We had a hearty lunch in the large restaurant.

Ballenberg was a delight to visit and was the favorite of my eco-museum visits.

The famine of the late 1800s was a big factor in the woodcarving business. In the 1870s over 1000 woodcarvers perfected their trade during the long Swiss winters. The only wood carving school in Switzerland is in Brienz. A three-day exam is required for entrance to the school’s four-year apprenticeship program.

The school established in 1884 had 30 carvers in residence. In 1944 they started making violins. I was looking forward to buying a small wood carving but it was not to be. This turned out to be one of the very few disappointing visits I’ve encountered in years of traveling. Sadly the guide was truly disinterested, rushed us through one room after another and appeared bored even answering our questions.

We did see a lovely exhibit of antique music boxes. The gift shop had hugely inflated prices and my buddy saw the exact scarf for 43 francs which she’d paid 10 francs for in Interlaken!

The same attitude seemed to prevail throughout the small village of 2500 people. There are many small shops and on the stroll back to the waterfront I saw a Hummel figurine I really wanted to buy but the shop refused to take a credit card so they missed a sale.

This was a few years ago and I wonder if attitudes have changed any.

IPRESSIONS OF CROATIA AND THE BALKANS

                                      Croatia Observations

            At the end of a trip I often make a journal entry of my impressions of the country I’ve visited. Today I decided to just include that page and I believe you need no further explanations.  This particular trip was chosen as Plitvice Lakes and National Park were a priority for me. This trip held some wonderful surprises and it was a most interesting and informative travel experience.

If you are interested in reading more about Plitvice N P, see post of September 19.

            * Marked difference in attitude in Croatia from that in Slovenia and Slovakia.

            * Pay to pee in Croatia or buy a drink in a bar or café to use the facilities.

            * Croatia coastal towns typical beach towns.

            * Seaside promenades popular everywhere along the coast.

            * Much more limited use of credit cards in Croatia.

            * Slovenia and Slovakia vibrant young populations.

            * Strong Turkish coffee café/bars culture everywhere.

            * Sidewalk cafés the norm.

            * Croatian towns look ‘worn’, but much construction in outskirts and on roads.

            * Typical European toilet paper, stiff and narrow.

            * Bathtubs very deep—thigh high from the floor---except in an American chain hotel.

            * No commercial salad dressings. Vinegar & oil. Light w/ no swimming salads. Very nice.

            * Marble paving stones common.

            * Cobbled streets and narrow alleys.

            * Small cars everywhere or large buses, no large cars.

            * Walled cities with gates and remnants of.

            * Red tile roofs.

            * Big meat eaters.

            * Wonderful fresh vegetables and salads.

            * No wooden structures.

            * Stone walls divide fields.

            * Tips not expected. Happy when receive one. No hands out though.

            * Salt & Peper seldom on table.

            * Bread eaten dry, generally no butter on table.

            * Little litter, but lots of graffiti.

            * Pedestrians beware!

            * Good local beer and wines everywhere.

            * Lots of stairs everywhere.

            * Hotel elevators very small—hold four people at best.

            * Almost impossible to be anywhere where you can NOT see mountains!

            * Lots of English everywhere, less in parts of Croatia and in small rural areas.