VIENNA TRIVIA

            On my second and shorter tour of the lovely Schönbrunn Palace  in Vienna we got into new and different rooms. (Only about 40 of the over 1000 rooms are open to the public)   The guide stopped in front of painting of a monkey sitting on a woman’s head saying, “In those days washing was a lot of work when you had to carry water. It was common for bugs, mites etc to setup housekeeping in  a lady’s hair. People actually made a business of renting out a monkey for a period of time to pick at the bugs. The monkey was well fed, and the lady itched a lot less!”

            It was an interesting picture and a tale I’d not heard before!

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            On another trip to Vienna we were told that there was a grocery/deli department in the basement of a particular large store where there  would be a place to sit and eat. We found the grocery store with no problem, and after buying our lunch we looked around for a place to eat. Maybe it was in some obscure place, but after inquiring of the checker we were informed there was no place to sit. Not to panic, I knew where there was a nearby Starbucks.

            We walked the couple blocks to that familiar landmark and entered a side door. This coffee house had a second floor, so we climbed the steps, found an empty table and proceeded to leisurely eat our lunch. Yes, we felt a little guilty and intrusive, but neither of us drink coffee after mid morning. We did agree that if anyone approached us we would gladly pay for the space or for a cup of coffee to donate to someone who would drink it. We were meticulous about picking up all our trash and getting it into a trash can. We enjoyed our lunch respite; no one was the wiser that we were intruding, and we left without  leaving any footprint.

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          I had a several-hour wait for my traveling buddy to arrive in Vienna so I walked  from the hotel to  Stephenplatz and then found the Ankeruhr clock, considered to be one of the finest art nouveau monuments in Vienna. It forms a bridge between the two parts of the Anker Insurance Company‘s building. Instead of hands, the Ankeruhr shows the time by means of 12 figures representing famous Viennese historical personalities. In the course of 12 hours, twelve historical figures or pairs of figures move across the bridge. Every day at noon, all of the figures parade, each accompanied by music from its era. It was good use of my time on a misty day in my favorite European city.

MONTENEGRO

                                               A Small Balkan Country

            On the two hour drive to Kotar, Montenegro from Dubrovnik we passed large groves of tall Italian cypress trees whose straight trunks were once used for ship’s masts. Huge fertile valleys were backed by 1335-1500-foot high mountain peaks. Persimmon trees were in full bloom with their orange flowers. Fig trees were growing wild. Palm and citrus trees were numerous.

            The small country of Montenegro, a wee bit larger than Connecticut, is one of great natural beauty. Never conquered by the Ottoman Empire, it showcases rugged alpine scenery, deep canyons, coastal fjords, a sparkling vegetated and folded limestone mountain range that plummets down to the azure Adriatic Sea. Its scenic coastline is dotted with historic cities. Beautiful peaks and valleys surround charming villages. From 1482 the country was ruled by bishops, and after the Turk defeat in 1878, independence was assured.

            In 1910 Nicola Petrovic declared himself king, but was evicted by the Austrians in 1916 and the country was incorporated into Serbia.  In WW II Montenegro fought with Tito’s army and after the war’s end became a state in Yugoslavia. With the breakup of Yugoslavia, the country again became part of Serbia. The tiny country became independent from Serbia in late 2006.

             Kotor, a coastal town is located in a secluded part of Gulf of Kotar. The administrative center of Kotor municipality has a population of 13,510. The Gulf of Kotor, one of the most indented parts of the Adriatic Sea, is sometimes called the southern-most fjord in Europe, although it is actually a submerged river canyon. Overhanging limestone cliffs create a gorgeous landscape. The Bay of Kotor, with a proud maritime history, is the largest, longest and deepest fjord bay in Europe.

            The old port of Kotor, surrounded by an impressive four kilometer city wall built the by the House of Nemanjie is very well preserved. Between 1420 and1797, Kotor and its surroundings were under the rule of the Republic of Venice and the Venetian influence is seen in the architecture. Kotor, first mentioned in 168BC was settled during Ancient Roman times. The plaque arrived in 1572, and the city was nearly destroyed by earthquakes in 1563 and 1667.

            Kotor, fortified since the early Middle Ages has been controlled by many including the First Bulgarian Empire of Ragusa, Venice, Hungry, The Ottoman Empire, Habsburg Monarchy, France, Italy, Russia, Austrian Empire and again Serbia. Kotor was the site of some of the fiercest battles between local Montenegrin Slavs and Austria-Hungary in World War I. After 1918 it became a part of Yugoslavia.

             The Old Town (Stari Grad) of Kota is a UNESCO site. The main entrance to the city is through an 18^th century gate fronting the  . Straight ahead is the 6^th century clock tower. Aristocratic families owned mansions on the small narrow cobbled lanes linking the squares. There are six 12^th century Romanesque churches in the well preserved city.

            St. Tripien’s Cathedral, 1166, is one of two Catholic Cathedrals in Montenegro and is the seat of the Kotar Bishopric.  It is built in honor of Saint Tryphon, the patron and protector of the city, on the site of an older church built in 809.  Seriously damaged by the 1667earthquake the cathedral was rebuilt. The lack of funds slowed reconstruction and accounts for the difference in the towers. A 1979 earthquake devastated the Montenegrin coast damaging the cathedral as well. Careful restoration again showcases the Romanesque architecture of one of the oldest and perhaps the most beautiful monuments along the Adriatic Sea. Its rich collection of artifacts is older than many famous churches and cathedrals in Europe.

            The priest was in. He graciously gave us some history of the church which the guide translated. Today, it is the best known tourist attraction in Kotor and a symbol of the city. The Saint is depicted in the city’s coat of arms, along with a lion and the Mount of San Giovanni (St. John). A unique gold marble curtain is the altar backdrop of the Franciscan monastery where only two monks remain.

            The road flanks one side of the fjord while houses line the opposite shore. In the Middle Ages the natural harbor was a walled city and an important artistic center with well known schools of masonry and iconography.

            We enjoyed a great lunch in Bodva, another walled city with a medieval past.  Returning to Tivat we rode a ferry across the fjord saving close to an hour driving time. It is amazing what the small ancient cities in a small country have to offer.