FRANCE'S LOIRE VALLEY

                                         A Charming Area

           

The Loire Valley was once the setting for the French court. This chateaux country is where England battled for the control of France. It was an area of great opulence during the 16^th century. In the land where Joan of Arc triumphed, today it is a region of lovely chateaux and parks. The Loire Valley is rich with meandering streams, patchwork fields, cool forests, majestic oaks, quiet roads, and lush green countryside. Its royal châteaux and pastoral villages grace its overwhelming natural beauty.   Picturesque cobblestone streets and breathtaking architectural masterpieces provide tiny discoveries hidden in the inviting gentle folds of the landscape. Agriculture includes vineyards, feed corn and sunflowers. The area is known for its white wine.

Each small town seemed to be more picturesque than the previous one. We enjoyed crepes in Tours after determining with a waitress who spoke sporadic English that scratched eggs were indeed scrambled eggs. There’s nothing better than a yummy dessert crepe to top off a lunch at a French sidewalk café! 

The impressive Chateau de Chenonceaux--- a jewel of renaissance architecture, graces the pretty town of Amboise. Sitting peacefully on the banks of the Cher River, Chenonceaux is well-known for its traditional French gardens and rich history. The grounds and river are a spectacular backdrop for the impressive structure. The estate of Chenonceaux is mentioned for the first time in writing toward the end of the 11^th century.  From the 13^th to the 15^th century, the estate with its unprepossessing feudal manor was the property of the Marques family.  In 1411 a royal order to punish Jean Marques for an act of sedition included an order for the destruction of the manor.   In 1432 Jean Marques had a castle and a fortified mill built to replace the lost manor.

The ceiling was different in each room. The chateau is full of beautiful large tapestries. One was quite unusual because it was done in tones of blue. Three of the huge marble fireplaces were carved and gorgeous. The rest of the fireplaces in the home were large but plain. The floors were generally tile, but one room had a floor design made with orange and rust 3-inch tiles. The big hall was done in 12-inch black and white tiles. The white ones were a porous material and the tiles quite worn. The kitchens were in the basement. The three floors of the chateau were accessed via winding staircases with rope hand rails.

            We had good views of the gardens across the mote from rooms on each side of the castle. They are extensive, gorgeous and I have no idea how many gardeners it takes to keep them.

            I once thought about biking the Loire Valley, but after seeing it another way I’m not sure I wouldn’t be stopping so often enjoying it all that I’d never finish—but that wouldn’t have been so bad. If you’re ever in the Loire Valley allow yourself plenty of time to visit castles as I’m sure any one you chose will be well worth your time.

A COUPLE HONG KONG EXPERIENCES

                          Something Old and Something New

VICTORIA PEAK

I visited Victoria Peak the first time when I went to Hong Kong to join my husband for some R & R when his ship put into port there in 1970. We stayed on Hong Kong Island and one day took the tram to the top of the peak. The tram ascends the mountainside at a 45% angle, one of the steepest in the world, before stopping at the top, 2000 feet above the city. Opened in 1880, the sign inside one of the two cars noted: capacity 95 persons.  We exited the tram on the rocky top and had the most fantastic view of the harbor and city below. The air was clear and there was nothing there but a few other people and solitude, peace and quiet.

What a difference 35 years can make! On an extensive trip to China in 2004 I was looking forward to showing some friends the view from Victoria Peak once we arrived in Hong Kong. We stayed in Kowloon this trip as the hotels had been moved from the island. We took the ferry---it was still free—across to Hong Kong. We followed the tram signs and found the station with no problem. The tram was the same and the ride still a thrill. We exited it into a huge mall! High end stores were everywhere and crowds prevailed. It was so smoggy that we couldn’t see the harbor or city below. I wanted to cry! We looked around and then crossed the street to McDonalds where we sat on the patio and enjoyed some ice cream. While visiting with new friends we discussed our plans for the following day when we would be venturing out into the New Territories. The tram was full on both the up and down trips, and on our way down to street level I felt sad on what used to be.

NEW TERRITORIES

            I am usually the one to do the trip research and decide pretty much where we will go, do and see. But I had left Hong Kong a blank slate. My one-time roommate was a very timid traveler and decided after one subway stop that she was going to stay in the city. I joined three younger new friends who wanted to visit a walled city in the New Territories and I was excited to be able to join them.

            We left the hotel at 9:00 AM and started out on the subway after figuring out how to buy the tickets in the automatic machines. We boarded the right train going in the right direction and after 6-7 stops we transferred to another train after purchasing another ticket. At that point one of the gals discovered that I could travel for half fare since I was over 65. So from then on I pushed the right button and traveled for less. That was a nice bonus!  Exiting the subway we took a minute to get our bearings as there really wasn’t any real landmark and we would have to make our way back to the station.

      It was a pretty good but pleasant walk from the train station to the walled city we were in search of and were delighted to see the outer wall still standing. Walking around the perimeter we eventually came to the entrance where a pair of elderly ladies, in local colorful hats, made it clear that we needed to pay one Hong Kong dollar to enter the 800-year-old walled city.

A plaque on the wall outside the entrance stated, “All inhabitants of this walled village have the surname   Tang. Their ancestors moved from central and southern China during a period of unrest and populated the area 800 years ago. In the 13^th century shelter was given to the last of the ruling Sung dynasty and one Tang married an aunt of the Emperor.

“In 1898 when China leased the New Territories, this village was closed to British forces. The wrought iron gates to the only entrance were confiscated. In 1925 the gates were discovered in Ireland and were ceremonially returned as a goodwill gesture.

“Today the villagers cultivate the surrounding rice and vegetable fields. Their village walls and moat stand as an unspoiled example of a typical Cantonese community insulated against banditry prevalent 200 years ago.”

The gate was most unusual. Made of heavy iron chain-link, the entire gate was made without a break in the chain creating a very unique geometric pattern. In all of my museum travels I had never seen anything like it. It’s design is so delicate, yet heavy and durable. Inside we found modern three-story apartment buildings. We learned only a few old walls remain. The rest of the new modern three-story apartment buildings were separated by narrow paved walkways. Most apartments had left doors and windows open. We wandered around the inside village with nobody bothering us. We stopped often to admire and comment on something. As noontime approached the aromas of local cuisine permeated the entire village, and it made me realize I was beginning to get hungry.

Down one little alley one of us spied a family Buddhist shrine, and when she stuck her head in the doorway, the owner looked expectantly at her. She remarked to the kindly looking woman, “This is such a peaceful place. It’s lovely.”

At that Florence Tang invited everyone into her living room. She then explained that she had studied marketing in Scotland and England and had a passion for Buddhism. Her English was excellent and we enjoyed talking and visiting with her.

Eventually we left and walked back to the subway station. We found the subway extremely clean with no graffiti anywhere. Back in Kowloon the first business at hand was to find something to eat. We had had a wonderful adventure and learned a lot of new things. I thanked my friends for their research, curiosity, and for including me in their outing!