HAVANA TID BITS

                                         A Great Visit

       There are many modes of transportation besides the yellow cabs; there are bike-taxis, horse drawn taxis, bicycles, and the adorable cococabs. People hitchhike all the time, especially out of the city. Obviously it is safe to do so and most all vehicles stop to pick up someone if they have the room.

    Traffic never slows. Pedestrians obviously do not have the right of way. However, we never saw an accident. Of course speed limits are slow, probably averaging about 40 miles an hour. There are very few traffic lights in Havana.

    Walking can be hazardous because of the conditions of the sidewalks. Havana has little pollution, which was a pleasant surprise.     

    Music was everywhere, all the time. It is nearly impossible to dine without music. Panhandlers are nearly non-existent. 

    The city is full of parks of all sizes and there are many many statues. Plazas abound. The island is lush and green, and extremely clean. Litter does not exist.

     The only part of the old city wall still standing is near the train station. The harbor had some pretty rusty ships at anchor. In the industrial area there were thousands of containers, many full size, but many also about half size. Also there were many oil storage tanks.

     A toilet seat outside of hotels seemed to be missing much of the time. It was smart to carry tissues or T P when away from the hotel.

     The old cars are easy to maintain. Even though parts may not be available they are easy to reproduce. The Russian cars are often cut up to make trucks or vans.

    Riding through decaying parts of town I noticed wires strung like spider webs out of windows, exposed to the outside, running loop after loop to somewhere else. It made me wonder who paid the electric bill, if in fact such a bill exists. Then again in some of these same parts of town were lovely old wrought-iron railings around balconies, which I’m not sure I’d want to step out onto.

    In the countryside I noted horses, goats, and cows grazing with no restraints and many times no fences. If there was a fence it was a flimsy line or two of wire.

     Cuba is a country of contradictions and surprises. Our trip was extensive getting us well out of Havana. People were friendly. Young people were open and spoke without a sense of fear. I would loved to have stayed a few more days and Cuba is definitely on my return-to list.

TRINIDAD, CUBA

                              Delightful Spanish City

           On our way to Trinidad we stopped at a hacienda in a valley for a scrumptious lunch. Afterward I asked one of our male travelers if he was going to climb the tower located on the grounds. We tackled it together and  I recall were the only ones in our small group to do so.

     Legend says two brothers were in competition for this property. One said he’d build a tower as high as the well was deep. Water never was found, but the tower exists today.

     We climbed the 136 steps to the top of the 142-foot high tower. What a fantastic view from the top! It was pretty windy but we were well enclosed. Some of the steps were a bit wobbly, but we really didn’t have any trouble.

     This area is known for its lace work and fine linens. The handwork was exquisite---and so reasonable.

      Trinidad (1514), in the lee of the Escambray, is maintained as a living museum, as it is pretty much as the Spanish left it. The city reached its peak in the mid 19^th century during the sugar boom. It is Cuba’s crown jewel of its colonial cities. It seems as though time has stood still here. This is where I really felt that I was in a time warp, and it was a bit surreal.     

      Ballast stones from sailing ships of days gone by paved the streets. These cobbled streets are paved with a slight V in the center. Logic says this would be for drainage, but legend says the first governor had one leg longer than the other. When he walked down the middle of the street, with his longest leg in the V, he was level and was able to walk without a limp.

     Situated on a low hill the city catches the ocean breezes, and the doors of homes reflect that with postigos, small wooden louvered windows in the center of doors to allow the breezes to flow through.

     The cobbled, narrow, slightly hilly streets are lined with pastel painted homes with tile roofs. Balconies are decorated with fancy wrought iron rails. The entire city is a national monument, which disallows any architectural changes to buildings.

     We saw many mule drawn two wheeled carts. Some of us walked down a side street where some construction was going on, and the mule-carts were hauling sand. Vaqueros (cowboys) rode horseback in Plaza Mayor around the white iron fence that surrounded the small park in the center of the square. We even saw a fellow walking a pig on a leash. I suspect it was going to be someone’s dinner.

     The soil is very red and a terra cotta pottery business is alive and well. At the museum we learned that the roof tiles were formed and rounded on the thigh of workers.

     A mild climate, fertile soil, and easy access to the Caribbean favored Trinidad’s agricultural

Plaza Major

(sugar) and commercial growth. Plaza Mayor was the heart of the original settlement. It was ringed by a cathedral (1892) and four museums, once mansions of wealthy colonialists.

     Holy Trinity Church is the largest in the country and houses the most valuable icons. It took 200 craftsmen three years to carve the wooden altar (1812). Seven saints decorate the altar and St. Francis is 400 years old.

     By the 19^th century Cienfuegos with a better harbor surpassed Trinidad, which started a slow steady decline for the city. In the 1950s Bastista declared the city a jewel and tourism started to be promoted. The town was named a national monument in 1965, and in 1988 named a UNESCO World Heritage Site

     After walking up to the square, our first stop was the Museo Romantico. The foyer was filled with plants and potted palms. Cameras were not allowed inside the museum and had to be checked in a cabinet at the entrance.

     The museum had the most gorgeous carved cedar ceiling dating to 1770. The tall walls did not go all the way to the ceiling leaving an air space between the wall top and the arches of the rooms.  The upper level of the building was added in 1804. Italian marble floors were throughout. The spectacular wainscoting in the rooms was all hand painted. The detail was unbelievable. The family had 12 children and 20 slaves, so basically 34 people lived in the house.

     I have never seen such a stunning wrought-iron bed! I also was intrigued with the kitchen. Baccarat crystal chandeliers and the Meissen porcelains were gorgeous. It was truly a treasure of exquisite antiques. 

     From the Plaza it was only a short walk to the craft market, where there was lots of lace, linen and crochet jackets and children’s dresses. There were some nice woodcarvings as well as some tourist junk.

     We went down a cobbled alley where we stopped in a courtyard to hear some music and enjoy another local drink served in small clay pot/cups. I didn't get the name of the drink.

    We had a delicious lunch at Eljigve, the oldest home in Trinidad (1614).

    I was most taken with this lovely city and hope to return there someday.