CHINESE GARDEN

             A FABULOUS CHINESE GARDEN

Having visited several oriental gardens, I highly recommend  people to make arrangements for a docent. There is so much symbolism that one will miss if touring a garden on your own.

It is good to remember that you can never see all of a Chinese garden from any one place. There is always something in bloom. The doorsteps on the buildings indicate how low one must bow. The higher the step the more important the person, and the lower the bow should be.

The Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Chinese Garden, in Vancouver, British Columbia,  built in 1986,was the first classical Chinese garden in the world built outside of China. It is, without a doubt, one of the finest I’ve ever visited. The brochure told us that the governments of Canada and People’s Republic of China collaborated to create the Ming Dynasty-style garden (1368-1644). Local designers and consultants worked with 52 artisans from Suzhou, the Garden City of China. Four of the 52 workers were cooks.

The docent we met in the formal/reception area  told us, “This garden covers only 1/3 acre here in the busy city, on the edge of Chinatown. All the materials—rocks, wood, lanterns--were shipped from China in 1000 crates. There are no nails or screws used anywhere in the garden. Since this is the first Chinese garden built in a 100 years, it was a training process for the workers. Vegetation could not be brought into Canada so were bought locally..

The scholar’s garden would be a private garden. Scholars were civil servants who were required to take and pass an exam. Scholars worked for the Imperial family and often were sent to distant areas. They would retire after a few years, return home to their family and create gardens to bring nature close to them. Gardens were small, condensed areas, but various methods give the illusion of being much larger.

There are Imperial gardens, such as those at the Summer Palace in China, and public gardens that are near temples.Chinese gardens encompass the use of vegetation, rock, water, and architecture. A surrounding wall is intended to keep the outside out. Rock and water are the center of all gardens.

Our docent told us, “The formal area is always first with buildings on a north-south axis. Water runs on an east-west axis. All gardens involve the five senses---sight, sound, smell, touch, and taste (in the form of tea).”

The formal area of this garden used camphor wood in the ceiling and beams. Even with 15 layers of lacquer  the aroma of the aromatic wood was present.

Perhaps the Chinese were the first recyclers, as they used roof tiles as edging, in stepping stones and broken pieces of rice bowls as the white in rock floor designs.

The docent explained, “These leak windows allow the outside to leak through. Each one has a different geometric design. Plants are not clustered, as we do in many of our gardens, but separated to be fully appreciated and enjoyed.  Camellias,  the symbol of spring, are the first flowers to bloom. Banana represents learning and is found in all gardens. Bamboo represents strength, able to bend without breaking.  Pine represents strength. The flowering plum represents rebirth and purity. Bats mean good fortune.

Standing in one of the rock ‘patios’, pointing out the floor design, she concluded, “Square represents the earth and circles represent heaven. Notice how the rather feminine designs have slowly changed to more masculine designs in these rock patios as we’ve walked through the garden”

The visit to this fabulous garden was one of the highlights of our stay in Vancouver.  

GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

                A FEW WORDS ABOUT THE GALAPAGOS

Once upon a time anyone could sail into the Galapagos, drop anchor, and wander at will. Fortunately for the ecosystem, no one can do that any more. Ecuador has very tight control over the islands. Everyone wishing to visit the islands must check in at Santa Cruz Island, register, pay his fees, and hire a guide for the duration of his stay. The guide sails on the boat and informs the visitor where he may and may not go

Only so many people and so many boats are allowed in the island waters at any one time. All boats have a guide for every fifteen passengers.  Most of the boats are small accommodating between 8-20 passengers.

There only are three large boats with a limit of 60 passengers. All the guides are trained at the Darwin Research Center on the island of Santa Cruz. All life is protected and habitats and nesting areas are off limits.

We are familiar with the word dinghy or zodiac, but in much of the world such a small boat is known as a panga.  With the boat often moving with the wave action, loading the pangas was often a challenge, but the crew was always there to lend a firm helping hand.

It is a 600-mile flight from Quito, Ecuador to Baltra Island in the Galapagos Islands. Baltra has the only runway and the airport is small, open air and as quaint as the Honolulu airport was in the 1950s. At the time of our visit the park fee was $80 that could be paid in either US dollars or Ecuadorian sucre. One dollar equaled 1800 sucre so you can imagine the fist full of sucre I had to pay our $160 fee. I just handed it to the officer and with a smile said, “You can count it.” He did and we were on our way outside.

Once outside, an old school bus transported us to the harbor where all the boats waited new visitors. We loaded a panga and ferried out to our luxury yacht, Reina Sylvia.

There is much to tell about this awesome vacation, its animals and people, but another day.  

A VIENNA EXPERIENCE

                                      OPIUM ICE CREAM

One evening on my third visit to Vienna, my traveling buddy and I finished a great pizza, and as we were walking outside she said, “Wouldn’t ice cream just top off that great meal?”

“While I awaited your arrival I scouted the neighborhood and I’m sure there is an ice cream kiosk around the corner about half way down the  block on the way back to the hotel.”

She followed my lead and as we turned the corner we could see the queue in front of the kiosk. We joined the queue, and when it was our turn I realized the young man understood no English. After several failed attempts to learn the flavor of the ice cream I was eying, I just opted for what looked like maybe chocolate chip but with micro chips. As we walked away, a young man standing behind us who had overheard my attempts to learn the flavor started talking to us. “That is opium ice cream you are eating,” he said.

            “What,” We chorused.

            “You know from the poppy, like they grow in Afghanistan.”

He repeated this twice and finally the light went on in my head as I said, “Oh,. You mean poppy seed.” Sure enough, that is what it was!

The young man continued on his way.  As he disappeared around the corner I said, “I wonder since that young fellow understood and spoke English why he didn’t come to my rescue when I was inquiring about the flavor.” 

My friend giggled saying,, “Now you can go home and tell everyone you ate opium ice cream in Vienna!”

TID BITS

SOME GOOD AND SOME ANNOYING

Pesky Hawkers are always annoying. Our first day in China set the tone for what was to come at nearly every tourist attraction.

In Beijing, it was very hot and humid but clear, and I was beginning to think I had taken the Texas heat with me. There were a lot of people about, but Tienanmen  Square was not a mob scene. This is where we experienced our introduction to really pesky, in-your-face hawkers.  They were relentless following one around, and never taking no for an answer. The price of whatever they were selling kept getting lower and lower, and eventually became a good buy if the article interested you.

  ***************

We were just finishing a city tour the first time I was in Auckland, New Zealand when I asked the driver, “Is there a floral clock in the city?”

He answered, “Yes, there is a lovely one in the park. Would you like me to take your there?”

 When we arrived he let us out to wander, take pictures and enjoy the area. I was a happy camper as I have been fascinated with floral clocks ever since I saw my first on in Niagara Falls in 1965.

I thanked this kind kiwi profusely for taking the time and going out of his way to accommodate a stranger to his city.

  *****************

QVB is short for Queen Victoria Building, a beautiful sand-stone structure, built in 1893. It occupies a whole city block in Sydney, Australia. The building has been restored and now houses 150 specialty shops. The tile on each of the three floors is different. Stain glass windows tower above the beautiful large marble stairways. A large clock dangles from the ceiling in the atrium in the center of the building. The basement level, which is under the street, is full of eateries.

This is a most unusual and beautiful building.

CEILING BOSSES

FASCINATING OBJECTS

            When I travel I’m a pretty unusual tourist. In fact I don’t think of myself as a tourist but as a visitor to another place. I’m often off the beaten track and am always looking for something different and unusual. While others are photographing the popular tourist attractions I’m looking at manhole covers or unique trashcans, or something else that is different. I could probably do a whole article on any of the previous mentioned if I went through my scrapbooks and pulled the pictures.

            OK, so now to today’s topic. What in the world is a ceiling boss and where would I find one?   I spotted my first ceiling boss in a church foyer ceiling in Chipping Campden in the Cotswolds, England. I was intrigued, and had to ask what the handsome wooden designs I was looking at were.

            I was told, “A boss is an ornament, often of carved wood, but can be plaster, that overlays the joints of wood or plaster beams on decorative ceilings. They are quite common in Gothic architecture.”

            Of course I had seen them in the many Gothic churches I’d been in. I just thought they were part of the architecture and never gave them a second thought.

After finding the ones in the Cotswolds, I looked for them and found many more, but, except for the gothic churches, I have never seen them anywhere else. I’ve never noticed them in our old Victorian or antebellum homes, but I also admit I’ve not specifically looked for them either.

            I wanted to buy one so I started looking for them everywhere I went. They are not easy to find. I finally found one in a church gift shop, and a second one in another gift shop. They hang on my hall wall with my collection of photos and paintings of famous churches I’ve visited. The bosses often provoke questions and I have great fun explaining about them.

SOLITARY CONFINEMENT

SCARY THOUGHT

            Tasmania, Australia’s island state, is picturesque with a good deal of the island inaccessible because of rich forest. On the way to Port Arthur we rode over rolling hills and farmland. We passed Barilla Bay, famous for its oysters, and stopped to visit the Tasmanian Devil Park to learn all about that unique animal.

Port Arthur was not a town at all but a prison from the time of its settlement in 1830, until its closing in 1877. It operated as a prison for 47 years.

Original punishment was whipping with a cat ‘o nine tails—nine leather straps, each knotted nine times was dipped in salt water before striking the offender. Punishment was carried out in front of all other prisoners. This punishment was abolished in 1849 in favor of solitary confinement.

Taken to a separate building the prisoner was placed in a small totally dark room (no windows) for 72 hours where guards would then play mind games. Fed only once in 24 hours, sometimes the guards would bring a meal just before midnight, then an hour or so later bring the next day’s meal. Prisoners totally lost track of time and became disoriented. In 1867 an asylum was built, and when the prison closed in 1877 the asylum housed 100 prisoners. Charles Dickens visited Port Arthur for research material before writing Oliver Twist.

   As we walked the grounds, we found the isolation room. Of course  I had to check it out. I entered the room leaving Jan outside to open the door when I yelled. When I was inside she turned off the light.  I don’t think I made it even a full minute. If you’ve ever been in a cave when the lights were turned out you know what total darkness is like and as a prisoner there would be no end.

I stepped out of the room saying, “Oh that is awful. I’d go insane real fast! I'd rather take the beating.”

            Before leaving Port Arthur we took a short boat ride out to the Isle of the Dead. All 1769 prisoners who died are buried on the low south side of the island, often in common graves, and. 180 free settlers are buried on the top northern side of the island. Headstones were not permitted until 1852, and prison stonemasons often cut head stones for the settler graves.

            Following  closure of the prison, buildings were sold or gutted by fire. In 1884 in an effort to remove the ‘convict stain’ the name was changed to Carnarvon. The name Port Arthur was resumed in 1927. The National Parks and Wildlife Service acquired the site in 1970. The Port Arthur Historic Site Management Authority, established in 1987, now manages and maintains the site.

PORT ARTHUR, TASMANIA

                                             NEVER A PORT

Port Arthur, located on the isolated Tasman peninsular,  was just as much a natural prison as Alcatraz was in the US. The peninsular was surrounded by hungry sharks, and was connected to the mainland only by the 100-yard wide Eaglehawk Neck peninsula that was guarded by chained angry dogs. The possibility of escape was nearly impossible. In the history of the prison there were only two successful escapes.     

Our driver told us, “Convicts in a chain gang built a causeway in 1872-74. All deliveries to the prison were by boat, as the overland road from Hobart to Port Arthur was not built until 1893.  Of the 73,000 English convicts sent to Australia, 12,500, mostly second offenders or violent criminals, found themselves in Port Arthur. These worst offenders also included women and juveniles. The young boys were sent to Puer Island, (abandoned in 1849) and were required to attend school. This was a progressive concept as school was not yet required for the general youth population. Males and females were separated.

   In 1830 Colonel George Arthur with 68 men established Port Arthur as a timber station. The first three years 1½ million cubic feet of lumber was cut and sent to England. There were no permanent buildings for three years. Over the next eleven years Port Arthur saw 6002 convicts in the settlement. Although the prison generally held 600-700 prisoners at any time, at its peak in 1840 the prison held 2000 prisoners plus a complement of soldiers and supporting personnel numbering 1200.

Although the conditions at Port Arthur were brutal, the prison also was progressive. All convicts were gainfully employed in one of  47 trades. The trades all evolved with a commercial bias. Included in the complex were a sawmill, granary and flour mill, railroad, shipbuilding workshop, tannery, coppery, gardeners and cobbler shop. The brickyard produced 50,000 bricks a month. The blacksmith made nails and fasteners. Between 1834-49, the shipyard produced over 200 long and whale boats. The largest boat was the size of the Mayflower. When the shipyard was closed down, a lime kiln was built to produce lime for mortar. Shells were collected and crushed as a limestone source. The bakery produced 1000 loaves of bread a day.

There still was a lovely 1800 church on the grounds.  There had been a hospital on the grounds and the guard towers were close to the officer housing. Today the ivy-covered ruins and restored buildings are a lovely historic site with a feeling of  peacefulness--a bit of a contradiction from its history. I couldn’t help but wonder what we would hear if the walls could talk!

It was a delightful van ride to the isolated site and a fascinating look back into Australia’s early history.

VENETIAN GONDOLAS

VENETIAN CANALS AND GONDOLA RIDES

            Arriving in Venice we quickly learned that the hotel chains are across the canal on the mainland. Our hotel was in Venice which meant we arrived by water taxi. Our luggage arrived by water boat. On the main island there are no vehicles and no bikes. It’s foot power or a boat ride. The canals are the roads.

            Before I embarked on this trip I’d made a deal with my traveling partner. I’d go to the Moulin Rouge with her if she’d go on a gondola ride with me. A gondola ride in romantic Venice was high on my to do list, no matter the cost. One quickly learns that the gondolas are strictly for tourist traffic. Venice is easy to walk, and even though yellow signs around the city direct you to Piazza San Marcos, the Rialto Bridge, Pizza Roma, or the train station, the many alleyways make it very easy to get lost.

            After dinner one evening we ventured down to the canal to find a gondola. That was no problem as they were lined up like taxi cabs outside an airport. Each gondola had an accordion player to accompany the singing gondolier. We were lucky to have a very pleasant gondolier who happened to have a fantastic voice. He serenaded us with lovely Italian love songs which we enjoyed but that would have been very romantic if one were with her honey. He took no requests and appeared to speak only Italian. It was a nice way to end a long busy exciting day.

            Everything in Venice is old. Our hotel was comfortable and clean and had no air conditioning. The windows had no screens, but after we turned off the lights we simply opened the window and actually were serenaded to sleep by the singing gondoliers below. That was nice!

COOK ISLANDS

                          FEAST FOR A KING

Most of the road around the island of Aitutaki was little more than  tire tracks. However, about two miles before we reached an absolutely gorgeous park we hit a paved road. This park was at the lagoon’s edge. Palm trees grew everywhere affording relief from the hot sun. Picnic tables were scattered around a central area near a BBQ setup.

Islanders had laid out the most fantastic feast for our lunch.    The yellow fin tuna was delicious and absolutely the best I've ever eaten!

The chef told us, “The fish is sliced very thin and dipped in a marinade and then it is cooked quickly.”

When asked for the marinade ingredients he smiled, “It’s a family secret.”

All the food was served on woven palm fond plates. All the large serving dishes were also woven making for one of the prettiest tables I’ve ever seen. Included in the meal were all kinds of fruits, and salads. It was a feast fitting for a king and that day we felt like kings and queens!

            Local musicians serenaded us for over two hours while we ate.  The music was delightful and the setting was magnificent.  We lingered over the most enjoyable lunch just relaxing, talking and eating. This day is a treasured memory!

The friendly sweet people definitely know what’s important in life. The pace is slow and relaxed. The people are happy and content living in this lovely island paradise. I truly fell in love with the place!

COOK ISLANDS

AITUTAK

  Aitutaki, 155 miles from Roratonga, is generally referred to as an almost atoll because of its unique structure  The island  actually consists of lagoon, coral reef, and scattered sand islets with  a high volcanic island at the northern end. It covers only eight square miles and is the northern most island of the southern islands in the Cook chain. A low barrier reef protects its triangular shaped lagoon which has 15 small uninhabited islands in it with the whitest of white sand beaches and beautiful clear water, all fringed with coconut palms.  

The rolling hills are lined with banana plantations and coconut palms. Until 1960 these were the main exports with most of the fruit being shipped to New Zealand.

            We left the ship in the zodiacs about 8AM. We maneuvered through a cut in the reef but we did not have to surf as we had at Atiu. The flower lei is a symbol of love and peace and we each were  given one.

    We walked, uphill to a large recreation hall where we sat on benches to watch a dance demonstration accompanied by a small island band. The dancers ranged in age from kindergarten age  to those in their late teens. Some of the older dancers were very good. After the dancing we were offered a cool drink before loading les truck for an island tour. These vehicles were a bit more comfortable than the ones on Atiu.

Arutanga is the main village. Religion is a large part of island life. The Congregational Church is the major religion of the Cook, Society, and Samoan Islands, and the large white church was built by English missionaries in 1821. Baskets woven from coconut leaves and finished with braided looped handles made from hibiscus fiber are a popular island craft.

            This island was lush with foliage, and the large heart-shaped elephant ear leaf of the taro plant was everywhere. Coffee, pineapple, breadfruit, papaya, mango, guava, and oranges are also grown . Cows, goats, chickens, and wild pigs grazed everywhere, but there are no dogs on the island. Fish is the main protein source of the island diet. A boat with supplies arrives once a month. Nearly everything, except fruit and vegetables, needs to be imported.

Life is ruled by the island council. Each of the seven villages has one representative to the council. All the land belongs to the people and the government must lease the land for their buildings. The total island population is 2500.

Tourism is a major source of income. The island’s two hotels and seven guest houses are able to accommodate the island’s 1000  annual visitors. Tourism is in its infancy and the yet unspoiled island paradise is what Hawaii was in the 40s and 50s before its tourism explosion.

There are some public cemeteries, but there is no law prohibiting one from burying relatives in their yard and many do. Yard graves and memorials were a fairly common sight.

There are four primary schools on the island but for higher education one must go to Rarotonga.

Small boats took many of us out to the sand bars to snorkel the reef. The numerous fish could be seen with the naked eye as the water was so clear. Venturing into the deep holes revealed an underwater spectacle. I swam among the fish until I got chilled and then reluctantly got out of the water to warm up again in the tropical sun.

I was really taken with Aitutaki and certainly could spend a wonderful peaceful restful vacation there.

GRIZEDALE NATIONAL FOREST

A UNIQUE HIKE

            In England we did many great hikes, one that stands out in my mind was through the sculpture of the Grizedale National Forest. Enroute we were told, “In the 10^th century peaceful Vikings came to this area. Many married the villagers. Monks from 1150-1539 dominated this area. In 1539 Henry VIII destroyed the monastery and sold the property to landowners.”

Scotch pine is the only native coniferous tree in the area and the English oak the only native deciduous tree.  In the 17^th century the larch tree was introduced for its aroma and medicinal uses.

Our guide continued, “In 1936 one could purchase parcels of 1500-2000 acres. During World War II women tended the farms when the men went off to war. The Forest Commission was formed after the war ended. Soon after, lodgepole pines were planted on the high area.

“In 1960 English representatives went to the United States to study the park system and brought back many ideas to England.  Grizedale was one of the first forests in England opened to the public. In the mid 1970s sculptures were allowed and encouraged. They can be made of wood, stone, or metal.  There even is a special sculpture map of the park.”

The hike started out with us climbing 500 feet straight up a rocky eroded path, but the view when one reached the top was magnificent! We viewed many sculptures hiking that day. Some were really neat, some conventional, and some pretty weird. It made the hike interesting—sort of like a treasure hunt. It was a fun afternoon.

            In England people live and farm in the parks. While hiking, during our visit, we opened many a gate to continue on our way.

During a lecture we learned that today there are many pressures on the National Parks. One of the most urgent and biggest problems is the impact of tourism. The area needs tourist income, but how to control the impact of many people using and enjoying the landscape. Then there is the need for tourist facilities and control of building and type of structures, all of which impact the growth. The need of the residents is always  present. Modern farming methods and commercial forestry are also needs.

Erosion is a constant problem, often caused by people straying off paths destroying vegetation. Repair of paths is a constant man-power and financial problem.     Leveling walk-ways, providing disabled access, identifying drainage problems, replanting and protecting such from sheep and deer are other problems facing the area. It might be said that the area has been loved to death. Trying to find a quiet balance is a challenge.

LOWITZ, POLAND

POLISH COUNTRYSIDE

            It is always nice to get out of the city and ride through the countryside. When in Poland we stopped at the Bernardine Monastery where the nuns had prepared and served us lunch.

            The nuns basically run a soup kitchen serving lunch to several poor people every day. They were expecting us and I must say it was one of the most memorial meals I’ve ever had. The vegetable soup was delicious and the bread was hot out of the oven. It was not elegant dining but it was a delightful time. The nuns were friendly and gracious and it was a pleasure to add to their coffers. When we left, the nuns standing on the front stoop, serenaded us with their lovely voices.

            When we arrived at the Lowicz Castle ruins musicians and dancers were waiting for us. Dressed in native costume they performed songs and dances specially for us. This was a real native performance, not some commercial affair.

Lowicz is a small native Polish village. The spokesman for the group explained, “I bought these ruins a few years ago and built this building on the grounds. My wife and I live here. Eventually, I want to restore part of the castle.”

            They were most gracious people and invited us into their home. I don’t know much about the history of the castle but it looked like he had an ambitious restoration project before him.

            Inside the home the man’s wife and a girl maybe 11 or 12 years old were doing some paper cutting. We all stood gaping in amazement at the intricate designs they were creating with sheep-shearing shears! The designs were beautiful and the shears were so big. I couldn’t imagine the patience it would take to accomplish such a fine art.

            We asked if the designs were for sale and were stunned when they said they ranged from 6-10 zoltys which translated into $2-3. We learned that this craft is unique to only this part of the country. I treasure my paper cutting and have it hanging in my living room.

As we were leaving, the fellow climbed a small hill to give us a cannon salute from his real live cannon. What a nice tribute!