COOK ISLANDS

AITUTAK

  Aitutaki, 155 miles from Roratonga, is generally referred to as an almost atoll because of its unique structure  The island  actually consists of lagoon, coral reef, and scattered sand islets with  a high volcanic island at the northern end. It covers only eight square miles and is the northern most island of the southern islands in the Cook chain. A low barrier reef protects its triangular shaped lagoon which has 15 small uninhabited islands in it with the whitest of white sand beaches and beautiful clear water, all fringed with coconut palms.  

The rolling hills are lined with banana plantations and coconut palms. Until 1960 these were the main exports with most of the fruit being shipped to New Zealand.

            We left the ship in the zodiacs about 8AM. We maneuvered through a cut in the reef but we did not have to surf as we had at Atiu. The flower lei is a symbol of love and peace and we each were  given one.

    We walked, uphill to a large recreation hall where we sat on benches to watch a dance demonstration accompanied by a small island band. The dancers ranged in age from kindergarten age  to those in their late teens. Some of the older dancers were very good. After the dancing we were offered a cool drink before loading les truck for an island tour. These vehicles were a bit more comfortable than the ones on Atiu.

Arutanga is the main village. Religion is a large part of island life. The Congregational Church is the major religion of the Cook, Society, and Samoan Islands, and the large white church was built by English missionaries in 1821. Baskets woven from coconut leaves and finished with braided looped handles made from hibiscus fiber are a popular island craft.

            This island was lush with foliage, and the large heart-shaped elephant ear leaf of the taro plant was everywhere. Coffee, pineapple, breadfruit, papaya, mango, guava, and oranges are also grown . Cows, goats, chickens, and wild pigs grazed everywhere, but there are no dogs on the island. Fish is the main protein source of the island diet. A boat with supplies arrives once a month. Nearly everything, except fruit and vegetables, needs to be imported.

Life is ruled by the island council. Each of the seven villages has one representative to the council. All the land belongs to the people and the government must lease the land for their buildings. The total island population is 2500.

Tourism is a major source of income. The island’s two hotels and seven guest houses are able to accommodate the island’s 1000  annual visitors. Tourism is in its infancy and the yet unspoiled island paradise is what Hawaii was in the 40s and 50s before its tourism explosion.

There are some public cemeteries, but there is no law prohibiting one from burying relatives in their yard and many do. Yard graves and memorials were a fairly common sight.

There are four primary schools on the island but for higher education one must go to Rarotonga.

Small boats took many of us out to the sand bars to snorkel the reef. The numerous fish could be seen with the naked eye as the water was so clear. Venturing into the deep holes revealed an underwater spectacle. I swam among the fish until I got chilled and then reluctantly got out of the water to warm up again in the tropical sun.

I was really taken with Aitutaki and certainly could spend a wonderful peaceful restful vacation there.