Midway 's WW II History

                                                More  Midway History

During WW II there were 29 BPY sea planes able to carry a 4000 pound bomb load stationed at Midway. These planes, able to fly only 100 miles per hour, were very slow. Before the days of advanced radar it was decided to load these planes with 4000 pounds of fuel instead of bombs and use them as reconnaissance planes. This way they could fly 2700 miles in 27 hours. Generally they flew a 7 mile radius around the atoll. Since Japanese carriers needed to be within 100 miles of their target this strategy gave the US early warning and advantage of any attack

In March 1942,the Halsey-Doolittle raid bombed Tokyo, which made the Japanese determined to wipe out US carriers. The Battle of Midway took place June 4-6, 1942. Most of the battle took place 100 miles from Midway, but the atoll was bombed again. Both the rebuilt hospital and hanger were again hit. The half of the hanger destroyed was never rebuilt and the hospital for the duration of the war was underground.

The US sank four Japanese air craft carriers plus numerous other ships. Shore artillery hit and damaged two Japanese ships and several aircraft at the atoll. The Battle of Midway lasted three days with the Japanese outnumbering  US forces  4 to 1.  The first Japanese naval defeat in 300 years   was the pivotal turning point of the war in the Pacific. From that point on the Japanese were on the defensive instead of the offensive.

One gun remains

The US lost 307 men, but the Japanese lost 3500 men. We lost the carrier Hornet but the enemy lost a total of 28 ships and 108 planes. Of the 112 American planes sent into battle 40 were lost. 26 ancient WW I planes left Midway, flew over low flying Japanese planes with a good success rate. However, only ten of those planes returned to the island and only two of those were ever able to fly again.

The US had broken the Japanese code and were pretty sure ‘AF’ meant Midway. We sent a false message about a broken water system. When an intercepted Japanese message stated to bring water, the US suspicions were confirmed. Thus the US knew when the Battle of Midway would take place and were off their estimate by only five miles and five minutes!

During the Korean War Midway played an important role as a defensive outpost in the Distant Early Warning (DEW) System, and was a port of call and air traffic center during the Vietnam war.

It was hard to imagine the 1200 acre island supporting 3500 people for three decades!

On Eastern Island we saw what was once a Boy Scout camp/retreat that now has returned to its natural state. On Sand Island the enlisted barracks have been torn down. Only the Bravo and Charlie BOQs remain. Termites ate and destroyed both the chapel and the Cannon school. The Officer in Charge house remains and the Senior Officer housing now houses island staff. By its very nature a golf course is not very bird friendly so is now gone. Most of the operational structures remain.

Memorial to the Gooney Bird

In 1969 President Nixon met secretly with Vietnam’s President Thieu here in the original Officer-in- Charge house. In 1978 the air station became a Naval Air Facility and dependents started to leave.  In 1985 a Pan Am 747 China Clipper II visited Midway to commemorate the 50^th anniversary of the first China Clipper flight.

 There are 43 designated historical sites/buildings on Midway. Visitors need to remember that Midway is a refuge and not a resort. A resort puts the needs of its people first and a refuge puts the needs of wildlife first and the needs of people second.

That’s the history of Midway in a nutshell. More about the island and our experience there another day.

SOME MIDWAY ISLAND HISTORY

Three  Great Weeks on Midway Island 

      
           I went to Midway island to help on a couple of research projects and to be a travel companion with a friend. Much to my surprise it turned out to be a fantastic three weeks.   Several foreign nationals have lived on Midway for years. The Thais keep the water system running and the Sri Lankans are the mechanics and carpenters.

            Midway Atoll is 1250 miles northwest of Honolulu, just north of the Tropic of Cancer and east of the International Dateline. The atoll is part of the Hawaiian archipelago but is not part of the state. It consists of three low coral and sand islands with a total land mass of 1600 acres. In 1988 the atoll was designated Midway Atoll National Wildlife Refuge and is now managed by the U S Fish and Wildlife Service.

            The Service has strict guidelines which include a required briefing when you learn all visitors are to stay on paved walkways/ roads and designated trails, and some areas are strictly off limits. The air facility operationally closed in 1993. In 1996 President Clinton gave US Fish and Wildlife jurisdiction of Midway. At the time of my visit, Oceanic Society Expeditions was the exclusive tour operator for Midway working closely with USFWS to realize goals of protecting and preserving fish, wildlife, and historic resources. Several research projects have been conducted at the atoll.

The BOQ our hotel for three weeks

            Not long after my visit (just before the turn of the century) Midway was shut down to tourist because of damage to the ecosystem. Now visitation is possible on a very limited basis through a handful of eco- friendly tour companies.

            All infrastructure is on Sand Island which is 1.8 miles long and 1.2 miles at its widest point.  Besides housing, there is a gym, weight room, basketball court, billiards, bowling, tennis courts, library, carpenter shop, transportation shop, and other necessary maintenance buildings, and a new modern medical facility.

            Eastern Island has no structures left except the overgrown runway. Accessible only by boat (we used a WWII era landing craft) to visit.  Visitation to that island is limited to small guided groups.. Spit Island is tiny, has no significant history and is strictly a bird refuge. The few vehicles on Sand Island are for work and maintenance only. We did have golf cart transport available to us for classes, but generally we walked or rode a bike. This was not a hardship!

            A fun tidbit: The last Easter and New Years services/celebrations in the world occur on Midway. If one crossed the International Date Line, 140 miles away, he could attend the first celebrations, then fly back to Midway and attend the last ones.

The tallest point on the island is the 165 foot water tower. All fresh water is obtained by catchment, stored in three huge tanks, sent through two treatment systems, and then pumped through a system to all faucets.  In the era of 3000 residents on Midway water had to be barged in. Today water is not a problem; there is plenty and water pressure is good.

            Midway was the first off-shore island to be annexed by the US in 1867 under the Guano Act. Since there are no bird rookeries on Midway the collection of guano would have been a tedious, nearly impossible task. However, history would prove this to be a most strategic move.          

In January 1903, in response to complaints of Japanese squatters and poachers, President Teddy Roosevelt placed the atoll under the control of the Navy. That spring the Commercial Pacific Cable Company arrived on the island. After the Navy removed the squatters and poachers they appointed the Cable Company  the island custodians. On July 4, 1903, from this station, President Teddy Roosevelt sent the first around-the-world cable which took nine minutes to complete.

            Pan Am set up a base for its Clipper Seaplane Service on Sand Island in 1935. Midway was a regular fuel stop for Pan Am’s Trans-Pacific route which included Honolulu, Wake Island, Guam, and Manila. This operation, including a hotel and restaurant was short lived—only 1935-1941. The US Naval Air Station Midway was commissioned in August 1941.

Many people do not realize that on December 7, 1941 in addition to the bombing of Pearl Harbor, Midway was also shelled. The hospital was demolished as well as half of the hanger. One fuel tank was hit and smoldered for days, but it served as a beacon for returning US pilots. The communication center took a shell wounding the operator and  temporarily knocking out the whole system.  Lt. George Cannon sustained a crushed pelvis but refused to leave his duty station until communications were restored. Then he was bodily removed by his men, but he later died, having bled to death. He was the first Medal of Honor recipient of World War II.

There is much more to tell about this fantastic visit, but this enough for today.

AND STING RAYS TOO

                                                Swimming With Sting Rays

            When I first mentioned swimming with the sting rays in the Bahamas, my granddaughter wrinkled up her nose---until she saw the slick colored brochure in the hotel travel office. She questioned, “Wasn’t it a sting ray that killed Steve Irwin?”

            The agent responded, “Oh that was such a terrible freak accident. But as you can read here for safety all these rays have had their stinging barb removed.”

Feeding the rays

A couple of days later we took the local jitney (small bus) down town. After enjoying a delightful lunch on the waterfront restaurant, we wandered over to the catamaran docked behind the straw market which would take us to Blackbeard Island.

It was about a half hour ride on a gorgeous warm sunny day. Sandals Resorts own half of this island, but the other half is the ray sanctuary. This lagoon contained some flat rocks and when you stepped off you suddenly sank another 6-8 inches.

            There were about 30 rays and some of them were huge. They swam all around often brushing my legs. Rays generally are gentle creatures. When it came time to feed and hold them, I told my granddaughter, “I’m going to get out of the water and go up on the deck to take pictures. I do not trust my footing in the water with a camera.”

            For the feeding those in the water formed two rows so the rays had a path to swim through. Those who wanted to feed were given several pieces of squid.

            My granddaughter exclaimed, “Grandma, they just sucked the squid out of my hand. It was such fun!”

            Afterward a few people wanted to hold an animal. Some were more successful than others, and my granddaughter was one of those who managed to grasp one but it was really big to lift far out of the water.

            Bordering  the sanctuary is a gorgeous powdery white sandy beach  for swimming. It was a delightful afternoon.

SWIMMING WITH DOLPHINS

                   
                A Fun Swim

One of the reasons my granddaughter chose a trip to The Bahamas  for her graduation present was because she wanted to swim with dolphins in the wild. After arrival I made sure that swim was booked for the next day.

It was a 25 minute boat ride to a private island dolphin sanctuary. On arrival a safety and dolphin briefing was mandatory with the emphasis on safety. The sanctuary maintains a pod of 28 animals, and later on the floating dock the trainers told us how they train them. We swam with two females which they said are easier to train. A life jacket was mandatory for everyone getting in the water. Mine was a bit too big and although the straps were tight it wanted to float up around my ears.

In the water we were instructed to form a straight line about 20-feet away from the dock. As the  dolphins swam by  we could stroke and pet them being careful to stay away from their heads.

            After that we worked in pairs. We all received a dolphin kiss. For a hug we were instructed to open our arms wide and let the dolphin come to us. Once the dolphin put his dorsal fins around us we could gently hug her back.

            At one point the dolphin brought each of us food which we took and submerged to prevent the persistent sea gulls from snatching  on a quick dive. Then the dolphins returned to the trainers and on command returned to us to be  fed. It was remarkable how gentle they were.

            To dance we gently tapped the water with our hands which was their signal. The dolphins approached, stood on their flukes so we could take her dorsal fins and dance.

Being pushed by the dolphins

            For the ride we were instructed to float on our stomachs and flex our feet downward. The dolphins approached, nosed up to our feet and swam like crazy across the lagoon to a white flag mounted on the far rocks. They swim so fast that one is propelled out of the water from thighs up. Even though my glasses were strapped to my head, I decided this was a bit more activity than I wanted to indulge in, so I let the young one take a second turn.

            What a fun afternoon! We were both a bit disappointed that we couldn’t freely swim around the lagoon with the dolphins. The crystal clear turquoise water was warm. This experience was a bit different than when I swam with Peta, a wild dolphin in Belize.

            The afternoon was pricy which as a tourist one expects, but I did object to having over an hour to shop in the small gift shop as there was nothing else to do.There were only eight of us swimming with the dolphins so we were not in the water as long as we would have been if there had been 20 of us. We could have better used that hour back in Nassau.

FINNISH TRIVIA

Delightful People, Delightful Country

Neutral during WW II, Finland resisted two Russian attacks and emerged from physical devastation with strong economic and military policies.

            Once a dirt poor country many Finns migrated to northern Minnesota.  Between 1809 and 1917 Finland began to industrialize and most of Helsinki’s great buildings were built during that time. 

Since the end of WW II Finland has become a modern country with successful timber, paper and telecommunications industries.

When the Soviet Union collapsed, about 20 percent of Finland’s trade disappeared.

Finland had been ruled by both Sweden and Russia before its independence in 1917.

            Although thought of as a Scandinavian country, Finland is really more Nordic. Finland is a republic. One third of the country is above the Arctic Circle.

In 1906 Finnish women were the first European women to be given the vote, and now women make up 40 percent of the parliament.

The Finnish language, related to Estonian and Hungarian, is a difficult one.

            Finland is well known for the Nokia phone and the familiar orange handled Friskers scissors and tools.

Street signs are in both Finnish and Swedish.

People were once paid in onions, potatoes, or vodka. The society was drinking itself to death, so since the 18^th century all liquor has been sold in state stores.

Lakka is a cloudberry liquor schnapps that I found quite good.

Finns are quiet stoic people, and are suspicions of small talk.

They like licorice that comes in many flavors, but they are not chocolate candy eaters.

They also prefer to suck or chew snuff to smoking cigarettes.

Helsinki is the smallest city to ever host the Olympics.  The films Gorky Park and Dr. Zhivago were filmed there.   

A Helsinki shipyard made ice breakers in the 1980s. In the 1990s it made cruise ships, many for Carnival Lines. The dry-dock is as wide as the Panama Canal.

            Helsinki is very pedestrian friendly, but the drivers are not!
            I liked Helsinki a lot and had a great visit there.

FIRST REAL DAY ON THE BIKE

A NEW ADVENTURE

             I thought   biking from Munich to Vienna  would be so much fun that I could hardly wait for that first European bike trip. I was 63 at the time, and it had been a few years since I’d been on a bike. In addition I had never done any serious biking. My children thought I had absolutely lost it, but nothing could dampen my enthusiasm.

            Before leaving the U.S.I bought the required bike helmet and I was ready to go! I had been to South America a couple of times and to Africa but this was to be only my second trip to Europe.

I was fitted to bike #10, learned the traffic differences, and learned the rules of biking. After the day of bike trials and a short ten-mile trip and back I was ready for the first 43-mile day that lay ahead.

The Germans call the Danube Donau, and it really isn’t blue like the famous music. The river is muddy with a pretty swift current. The river has many locks as 25% of the country’s electricity is generated from the river. It had been a very rainy year so several ferry landings were flooded and the bike path in many areas was under water necessitating us to use the road.

Cloudy skies and often rain followed us the entire two weeks. There were days we were in and out of rain gear several times.  The scenery was spectacular and the villages and cites quaint and picturesque. As flooding forced us to use the narrow roads we were told how important it was to keep a good distance between bikers. Vehicles could pass one or two bikers at a time but a string of 23 bikers made it difficult for  drivers. I had visions of being very muddy from car-splash, but drivers were very considerate and my visions never became reality!  Then again everyone there rides a bike and we Americans were easy to spot as we were the only ones wearing helmets.

            I was always the last person in, but that didn’t bother me. I stopped whenever I wanted to take pictures, all of which show the cloudy skies. The only problem of being last was the lack of a break. But like the Energizer bunny, I just kept peddling and was having the time of my life. By noon of that first day I felt like I had a knife between my shoulder blades. I never could figure out why, but my best guess is that my handlebars were too far away so I hunched over them. The problem continued to plague me and only lessened a little, when I made a conscious effort to drop my shoulders After 43 miles and all day in the saddle I really felt it. I thought I was going to die.

I learned a lot about biking gear. A couple of experienced gals shared lots of information. I left home with NO biking gear or wardrobe. I was really an innocent babe in the woods, but I soon remedied that situation.

            This turned out to be the first of three European bike trips, and I wouldn’t trade that first great trip for anything in the world. I had a fantastic time, learned a lot about biking,  the country and its people and had a  marvelous knowledgeable guide.

A REMARKABLE MAN

BADDECK and BELL

Baddeck, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia is a community of only 1100, but it   is one of the largest villages on Bras d’Or Lake (locally pronounced bra door). Several small low-rise hotels are inconspicuously nestled among the awe-inspiring scenery. The lake is large and from certain vantage points one can catch a glimpse of Alexander Graham Bell’s beloved home, Beinn Bhreagh.

One of Beddeck’s most famous residents, Bell built his 37-room, 11-fireplace home in 1892-93 on 450 wooded hillside acres   overlooking the lake, whose name means arms of gold.  Bell spent his last 37 years at Beinn Bhreagh and died there at age 75, in 1922, from complications of diabetes.

A visit to the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site, built on 25 beautifully landscaped acres on the eastern end of the village, revealed much I did not know about this famous inventor, teacher, and  humanitarian.

Known for the invention of the telephone, I had  no idea he was  involved in so many other endeavors. His mother was partially deaf and his wife was totally deaf.  It is said that his mind explored the world, but that his heart was with the deaf. His lifelong ambition was to help people communicate with each other regardless of barriers. He was a teacher of the deaf in Boston, and he met and mentored Helen Keller. Born in Scotland in 1847, he was to travel the globe during his lifetime. I couldn’t help but reflect on how arduous that would have been in his day!

At age 15 Alexander was sent to his grandfather in England for a ‘proper education’. Two brothers died of TB when Alexander was 23. He loved children and at night when he couldn’t sleep he would get up and write children’s stories.

            Bell applied for the phone patent in 1876 and spent 20 years defending it. He married Mabel Hubbard in 1877. Just before her marriage,  Bells  father told Mabel, “He is hot headed but warm hearted, sentimental, dreamy, and self absorbed but sincere and unselfish. Ambitious to a fault he is apt to let enthusiasm run away with judgement. With love you should have no trouble harmonizing. I’ve told you all of his faults and the catalog is wonderfully short.”  She was wealthy in her own right, but Bell gave her all the stock in the phone company.

He was quite involved in the airplane and conferred in 1903 with the Wright Brothers. In 1908 Bell managed to put a man in the air on a kite, and two years later got his first plane, June Bug, in the air. That same year, 1908, his second plane, Silver Dart, flew 790 meters. It was Bell’s wife, Mabel, who financed his aviation endeavors. She died in Washington, D. C. just five months after her husband of 45 years had died.

Bell also had his hand in the creation of the hydrofoil and iron lung among many other things. He was a remarkable man with a most creative mind.

Baddeck is a quiet quaint little village in a gorgeous setting. The museum is very well done and certainly worth a visit, but allow plenty of time to learn many things about this remarkable man.

NO RELIEF FROM THE HEAT

RUDESHEIM, GERMANY

While on a European river boat we arrived at Rudesheim mid-afternoon and were told it was 104 degrees in town. We knew it was hot, as it was the year that so many people died in France from the heat!  It was very unseasonal weather and I was so glad I packed a couple pair of shorts as  I ended up  living in them.

It didn’t take long to complete a walking tour of the small town. An enormous 35-foot high stone statue of Germania, the female symbol of the unification of the German Empire in 1871, towers 1000 feet above the town of Rudesheim, but it was just too hot to make the steep hike up to it.

After the walking tour, seeking a cooler place, we visited the music instrument museum. It was much different than expected but interesting. The thick walls of the old building kept it relatively cool  inside. There were many player pianos, carnival organs, and gramophones on display.

            There was no air conditioning anywhere in town. Other than the usual souvenir shops there were few shops. My traveling buddy was looking pretty hot so we found a sidewalk café to sit awhile to enjoy a chilled soda, I dreamed of ice and something really cold, but Europeans simply do not understand cold.

We were eating in town that evening. After a brief discussion we decided to spend the afternoon in town and meet at the restaurant on the cobbled wine alley Drosselgasse at the designated time. A couple of dozen people made the same decision. The restaurant was very hot with no cross ventilation. Ceiling fans would have been nice, but are not common. We were informed that because it was an historic building, such alterations as adding ceiling fans were prohibited.

After dinner we elected to walk back to the ship instead of taking the tram. As we strolled along the riverfront at 9:00 PM the temperature was a wee bit more comfortable. We found a few small stores open. Everyone was shopping for cooler clothing and a few were successful in this endeavor. Our cool cabin was a welcome relief from a very hot day.

KISS THAT STONE

  A LOT OF BLARNEY

Blarney Castle

            When in Cork County, Ireland who could resist the famous Blarney Stone located in Blarney Castle.  Its tall tower overlooks the River Lee and the surrounding wooded countryside. There are several legends regarding the stone; the most popular being that Elizabeth the First demanded the take over of the 15^th century fortress/castle and the Lord of Blarney kept putting her off. Eventually she said he was full of blarney---his word meant nothing. Another legend says the prophet Jeremiah brought the stone from the Holy Land.

            It is said that if one kisses the stone he will receive the gift of gab and eloquence. Many of us climbed the 127 narrow twisting stone steps to the top. The slow moving crowd made for an easy climb and the view at the top was magnificent on the clear sunny day. Blarney House is a Scottish baronial mansion that has been the residence of the Colthurst family since the 18^th century and was easily visible from the top of the castle.

PR release of  kissing the stone

            To kiss the stone is not all that easy for us older folk. You are warned before hand to empty your pockets and remove your glasses. I tried desperately to block out all images of people spiting on the stone,coughing or leaving gum. I wasn't too successful in this effort.One has to lie on his back, grab hand rails and bend over backwards. A fellow is present to assist and a photographer never misses an opportunity to snap a picture. This little exercise is pretty commercial and one doesn’t have a chance to tarry around the stone. However, one can linger as long as desired to enjoy the view---as long as you move away from the stone and not hamper the progress of the line waiting to kiss the stone.

            The descent back to ground level is quicker than the walk up. Walking paths wove through the lovely grounds of the castle. The paths were uncrowded and it was quiet and peaceful in the wooded areas.  I took the time to leisurely walk several paths and to admire the landscaping.  I was not looking for but came across the  Rock Close, a fantastic section of land filled with an array of trees, plants, and rocks in unusual shapes. Stones shaped like witches and rings of druidic inspired circles are surrounded with huge trees and fairy gardens. 

A friend joined me before I made my wish and walked backwards up on the 26 stone wishing steps. I even managed to do that without stumbling! The fairies did grant me my wish.

POPULAR CUBAN DRINKS

A Meal Surprise

At lunch my first day in Cuba we were served our first mojito, a well-known local drink. At that point little did we know that we would be drinking a lot of mojitos, as one was served with every meal.

We were instructed,  "A mojito starts out with the juice of a half lime, an ounce of rum, and the rest of the glass is filled with lemon-lime soda.Fresh mint is a must for making mojitos The four-prong stirrer is to crush the mint leaves/sprig to release the essence of the mint.” 

Hemingway enjoyed Mojitos. Now I know why!

One day we had lunch in Old Havana at the lovely Floridita Restaurant. The ambiance was wonderful with the gorgeous wooden walls which were real wood, not paneling. The bar at Floridita was a special haunt of Hemingway.

This day we were served a daiquiri, another drink made famous by Hemingway, but that was originally concocted way south, just a few miles east of Santiago. In 1898, shortly after the Spanish-American War, a mining engineer arrived in town to find mine workers apprehensive about drinking the water because of malaria.

Being a creative man he added a bit of rum to boiled water and then topped it off with lime juice and sugar. The concoction was soon duplicated. It didn’t take long for  the drink we know as the daiquiri to move to the ‘refined society’ in the city. The rest as they say is history, but this is where  and how the daiquiri originated.

The Floridita restaurant has been serving food at the present location since 1819. In the recently refurbished restaurant waiters hovered in tux jackets and bow ties. It all was quite delightful. It is said that Hemingway’s ghost haunts the dark mahogany bar. The novelist’s seat is preserved as a shrine while his bronze bust watches over things from where Constante Ribailgua once served frozen daiquiris to the writer.

After the tour of a sugar mill we walked across the street to another building containing the lab. There we were given guarapo de cana (sugar cane juice). The gal added a good dose of rum to each glass of the tan colored liquid. I expected it to be sticky and very sweet, but it was not. Actually it was quite good. Maybe it was the rum!

INTERESTING FLIGHT ARRIVALS

Expect the Unexpected.

Flying into Lhasa, Tibet is not an easy thing to do. Flights in and out of the city are often canceled because of sand storms and or wind shear. You fly through a narrow cut ---I believe a natural one—in the mountains. I’m sure the cut is wider than my perception, but it seemed as if I could have touched the mountain on either side if I’d been sitting on the wing tip.  It is best not to be looking out the window, but then again how can you not?

Flying into Cusco, Peru afforded a fantastic view of the Andes mountains below. The many Inca trails were easily visible, and they seemed to zig zag all over the mountains. From the perspective of an airplane they looked pretty flat, but I was to learn a few days later that  they were anything but! We off loaded the uneventful flight and per usual started to hustle into the terminal. All of a sudden, like a curtain had been dropped in front of us, everyone suddenly slowed to nearly a snail’s pace. One and all was gasping for every breath.

The smart terminal people obviously were used to this common altitude effect, because  as we entered the terminal building we found a small band playing lovely Peruvian music. We stood around while our breathing slowed and waited for our luggage to arrive. The music was a nice distraction!

Arrivals into South America always seem to be in the evening, which means one usually arrives in the dark. In Lima, Peru it was highly recommended that one secure a cab from inside the airport. Although a bit more expensive than securing a cab outside it was deemed safer.

Driving in Lima is like playing chicken. Honking horns was a constant, no one paid any attention to the few traffic lights or stop signs. Thank goodness the cab had good brakes and the driver quick reflexes!

On the edge of the city we drove through barrios where disheveled people, mostly men, were standing on the street corners smoking and drinking. I said a silent prayer for no accident, flat tire or mishap. It was a relief to leave the barrio,  but then we were on a two-lane winding, very dark road that seemed to be following a body of water. There were no lights or buildings. Were we on the right road? Would we be robbed or worse? Maybe left on the road in a country where we did not speak the language?

Suddenly the lights of Miraflores, a Lima suburb, appeared. The neat homes and well kept yards were a welcome site. A sigh of relief escaped my lips when I spotted our hotel. In retrospect it was probably a very pretty ride in daylight, but in total darkness it was scary indeed!

YUMMY CAKE

COFFEE AND THE SACHER TORTE

            After nearly a full day of sightseeing in Vienna, Austria we were ready for a respite  and chose the Sacher Hotel sidewalk café. We took our time and relaxed which gave me time to read the history printed in the menu.

In 1683 fleeing Turks left behind bags of coffee beans, after their failed second attempted invasion. The Viennese soldiers thought the coffee beans were fodder for the camels and were about to burn them. However, King Jim Sobieski gave the beans to one of his officers, George Franz Kohchetsky. He roasted the beans and opened the first kaffeehaus in Vienna. The coffee, which at first they called black soup, spread rapidly and as they say the rest is history.

            In 1832 the chef to the prince became ill just before high ranking guests were expected, so young Franz Sacher, the apprentice cook, had the chore of creating a proper dessert. Thus the Sacher tort was born. Today the recipe is kept in a vault and only a few know all 36 steps involved in the preparation of the chocolate-apricot dessert. The candy-like frosting is a dark chocolate. Today 360,000 Sacher torts are shipped around the world in specially made wooden boxes.

 The Hotel Sacher dates to 1876 and was established by Edward Sacher, the son of the torte creator. In 1880 Sacher married Anna. However, Sacher was in ill health and after his death in 1892 Anna took over management of the hotel for the next 40 years. The hotel became a popular gathering place for aristocracy.  The seven-story hotel underwent a massive two-year restoration 2004-2006.