Memorable MAYAN RUINS

                                            Mayan Ruins

     In Belize It took almost three hours to travel 18-20 miles through the jungle to the Mayan Ruins of Caracol.  Although the road was like wet clay the young driver avoided getting stuck. Because an early rainy season had arrived the archeologists had left the site two weeks early.

     Caracol is the most extensive known Mayan ruins in Belize. A five square mile  clearing in the thick jungle comprises a Classic Period complex that includes pyramids and an astronomical observatory. The most visually striking structure was Caana, sky palace, a temple towering 136 feet above the plaza floor. The central plaza was linked by causeways to a number of other ruins.

     While only a small portion of these ruins had been excavated at that time, it took over three hours to tour the site on a hot humid day. Archeological finds here are expected to result in a much better understanding of the Mayan social structure and may help determine what led to the dissolution of the civilization.

     The very steep steps led up  to the sky house, but the view from the top was worth the climb. It was a great temptation to sit on my butt and bounce down the steps---but I refrained and used sort of a bounce  step to return to ground level. The capital of the Mayan civilization for many years, it is estimated that 180,000 people lived here. The society hit its cultural zenith between 500-600 AD.

     The Mayans arrived from the north and east in about the third century AD. They constructed towering pyramids, engineered needle-straight highways and very accurate astronomical friezes.

     They flourished for five centuries and then mysteriously disappeared---all five hundred years before Columbus! 

     A 1993 National Geographic documentary of the ancient Mayan civilization was filmed at Caracol.

     This was my first, but by no means last journey through the jungle or to visit Mayan ruins.

I think the first of anything is usually the most memorable and easily recalled  one.

BELIZE

                 Get Away from the Main City
 

  Cruise ships have made people aware of Belize, but when I went there for the first time two decades ago people’s response was, “You’re going where?” 

When I responded, “Belize, the old British  Honduras,” then I'd get recognition.

    Belize is a small ruggedly beautiful country in Central America. The Caribbean surrounds it on the east.  Guatemala borders on the south and most of the west, and Mexico borders the northwest. Nearly one third of the country’s 200,000 inhabitants live in Belize City which is located on the northern third of the east coast.

   The country’s multi-racial diversity include: Creole of African descent; Mestizo are Spanish-Mayan; Caribs, also called Garifuna; with smaller groups of East Indian, Landino, and Spanish. Mayan Indians make up 8% of the population.

   Half of the country’s 9000 square miles is surrounded by water with numerous cays and three atolls dotting the coastline. The northern part of the country is flat rising gradually to a coastal plain running the length of the country. About one half of the mainland’s 8600 square miles (rest are atoll) is used for agriculture. To the south and west the terrain rises dramatically to 3000’ above sea level into the Mayan Mountains. This terrain is rugged with rivers running from the mountains through the plains onward to the sea. White water rapids and 1000’ waterfalls are interspersed in the rivers.

   Rain forest, Savannah, jungle, forest, and mangrove swamps all add to the land diversity. Seventy percent of the country is covered with forest. Much of the jungle is under government protection. Bladen Nature Reserve covers 92,000 acres in the Mayan Mountains. Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary is 102,000 acres.

    To the East lies the second largest reef in the world and the largest barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere. The reef comprises 175 off shore cays and three atolls. Mexico has one atoll and together these four atolls are the only atolls in North America.

   The flora, fauna, and birds are as varied as the scenery. The only jaguar preserve in the world is in Belize.

The climate is sub-tropical with a high in summer of 95 with a winter low of 70s. The official language is English and all instruction in school is in English. Spanish, a strong second, is taught in the lower grades to further bilingualism. Creole is also widely spoken.

   The country’s tallest building is in the Mayan ruins at Caracol not in Belize City nor the capitol of Belmopan. The largest city, Belize City, like New Orleans, lies three feet below sea level.

In 1961 England made it clear that Belize could become independent at any time but fearful of being overrun by its neighbors Belize maintained British ties until 1963 when a new constitution provided self-government.     
   A declaration of independence was declared in 1981.

My first trip to Belize was for a research project and our home was 32 miles off shore on Turneffe atoll. This largest of the country’s three atolls, contains 4000 acres of jungle. The mosquitoes were so thick and troublesome that we turned around after a very short jaunt into the jungle. However, our resort was bug free, had a generator to produce all its electricity and reverse osmosis machinery to produce a clean water supply.

   Our group was split in half. We worked the project alternate mornings and afternoons and snorkeled on the other half of the day. The marshes and lagoons are just full of diverse marine life where 46 species of hard coral grow plus many varieties of soft corals and sponges. We snorkeled a different location each day. It was the best snorkeling I’ve ever done—and that includes two trips to  the Great Barrier Reef where I’m sure we were taken to the most popular tourist areas.

  At BlackBird Cay on the atoll I thought I had found paradise. The lush remote island paradise was surrounded by clear turquoise water. The warm Belizean sun bathed deserted sandy beaches. The serenity of the unspoiled natural beauty was awesome. Our thatched roof cabanas were   complete with bath, and a little veranda complete with chairs and hammock. The cool ocean breezes cooled all the buildings through large screened windows that had a drop down shutter for rainy or stormy days. Without the cool sea breezes it would have been very hot. The South Seas atmosphere was great fun for our couple week stay that was truly a wonderful vacation—working or not.

     It’s a shame that cruise ship passengers are in port only long enough to see Belize City which is like any other large Central or South American City. Do I need to say more!

LOOKING FOR DOLPHINS

Bottlenose Dolphins

            Each day in Belize we went looking for dolphin in different locations. Our team was lucky as we found these beautiful creatures every day!  We used a 23-foot boat with a 75 horse power outboard engine and took turns documenting various data.

            When we spotted dolphins we counted the number of animals and the composition of the pod as well as their behavior. We followed them as long as possible noting the beginning and ending times of the sighting. Dolphins are identified by their dorsal fin. In the evening we had a chance to help identify various dolphins---not an easy task!

Because there are no year-round residents at Turneffe Atoll the human impact on the ecosystem and dolphin is minimal. The government owns a few small fishing camps on the atoll which are leased to licensed fishermen who fish mostly for lobster, conch, snapper, grouper, and barracuda. Gill netting and purse-seining are illegal in Belize, so all fishing is small scale.

The mangroves serve as nurseries for baby fish and invertebrates. They are a nutrient source for the sea grass beds which trap sediments from the mangroves. Clear water is essential for the health of the reef. Corals need light to grow and the reef is home to a multitude of fish.

Bottlenose dolphins inhabit temperate and tropical waters throughout the world. There appear to be two ecotypes: an off shore and a coastal form. They can be identified by skull and teeth structure and by blood characteristics.

            Coastal bottlenose dolphins vary in group size ranging from one individual to 30 animals. These animals stay within a limited home range although they may migrate hundreds of miles. The home range of coastal populations may overlap. The offshore ecotype can be observed in larger groups. Atlantic bottlenose dolphins are generally 6-9 feet long and weigh between 136-272 kilograms. They receive their name from their bottle-shaped beak. Their body resembles a torpedo. The coloration ranges from gray to almost black. In warmer climates they exhibit a pink belly when engaged in rigorous activity as a way of releasing heat.

Males reach sexual maturity between 10-12 years; females at 5-12 years. Gestation is 11-12 months and calves nurse 12-18 months.  Females give birth to a single calf. Long term studies show that their lifespan can be 40-50 years. Age is determined by growth layers in a dolphin’s tooth. (Similar to counting the rings on a tree) Bottlenose dolphins are active predators that feed on a wide variety of fish and invertebrates.  In many areas they have adapted their feeding habits to coincide with human activities. They are often seen feeding behind fishing boats and shrimp trawlers. At Turneffe the main activity is lobster and conch fishing.

Bottlenose dolphins are often seen bow riding and body surfing and this may be a means of reducing energy expenditure by allowing the wave motion to carry them forward. However, they also will surf on a wave that takes them in the opposite direction of movement and may suggest that this is a form of play behavior.

Dolphins are highly social and are usually seen in schools.  It has been suggested that learning within the social unit is important and that school behavior is a major component of the animal’s daily activity regime.

Dolphins are mammals and must breath to survive. Unlike most mammals they have no hair but an insulating layer of fat to maintain a constant body temperature of 97-99 degrees. The porpoise is a close relative of the dolphin, but has a blunt snout and a stockier build, not quite as sleek 

This was my first research trip and whetted my appetite to do several other such projects. It was a  fun, learning and active vacation!

CARACOL MAYAN RUINS

                                      Would We Make It?

Because of the arrival of an early rainy season in Belize that year, it was questionable if we would be able to make our journey to Caracol the next day.

In the morning we learned the trip was a thumbs up! The road, and I use the term very loosely, through the jungle was a very slippery clay  one. We did our share of slipping and sliding but stayed on the ‘road’ as there was nowhere else to go. No gutters to fall into! After three hours on our 18-20 mile journey we spotted ruins in a clearing.

Caracol is the most extensive known Mayan ceremonial center in Belize. A five square mile clearing in the thick jungle comprises a classic period complex that includes pyramids and an astronomical observatory. The most visually striking structure is Caana (sky palace) a temple towering 136 feet above the plaza floor.  We were told it is the tallest man-made structure in Belize and it measures 100 X 120 meters. The Central plaza is linked by causeways to a number of outer ruins. Archeological finds here are expected to result in a much better understanding of the Mayan social structure and may help determine what led to the dissolution of the civilization.           

            Only a small portion of these ruins have been excavated and the tour still took over three hours. Our local guide was young but very knowledgeable.

Of course I had to climb the sky house and although it wasn’t all that far the steps were very steep. On the trip down some chose to nearly crawl down backwards. I just sort of bounced down, first on one foot and then on the other. I’m an equal hip/knee kind of gal!

In 1993National Geographic showed a film of the ancient Mayan civilization which was filmed at these ruins.  Caracol is seven square miles and when fully excavated will be one of the, if not largest,  discovered Mayan ruins. It is estimated that 180,000 people lived here and it was the capitol of the Mayan civilization for many years. It reached its cultural zenith between 500-600AD. In 1992 a tomb was uncovered and the body of a woman found wore the largest jade mask ever found. She also had a ‘fan’ above her head.

The Mayans who arrived from the north and east in about the third century AD constructed towering pyramids, engineered needle-straight highways, and designed very accurate astronomical friezes. They flourished for five centuries and then mysteriously disappeared. It is presumed that there are some Mayan ruins in the wilderness still undetected. All this happened centuries before Columbus discovered America.

It was very hot and still in the ruins and we all consumed large amounts of water. On the return trip to the lodge, the driver detoured to the Frio No where we went swimming in the cool pools. Some of us even bounced down a waterfall or two. It was great fun and a delightful cooling way to end an interesting day.

LOVELY MOUNTAIN ACCOMMODATION

                                                Inland Belize

           After our dolphin project on the Belize atoll I decided to stay over  on the mainland to see some Mayan ruins. We traveled about 20 miles on paved road through the rural countryside. Although the road was paved it had no dividing lines, and there was very little traffic after the first five miles.

            Then we turned onto a dirt road for about another 20 miles. Our four wheel van progressed slowly dodging ruts and holes in the road. It was also a gentle climb to about 2000 feet. In the valley we passed huge citrus farms. The pine trees were tall and straight, slightly smaller than a telephone pole.

During the ride the driver told us, “The Mountain Pine Ridge here  in the southwestern part of Belize has some of the most diverse scenery in the country. These stately pines cover 300 square miles of steep hillsides in the foothills of the Mayan Mountains. Along the edges of the pine ridge are limestone caves, white water rivers, hardwood forest, and sharp escarpments with sweeping views. The climate is slightly cooler than the rest of Belize. Birds are plentiful, butterflies are particularly numerous, and there are many varieties of unusual bromeliads and other epiphytes. Much of the wilderness is in virgin condition, just as it probably was 2000 years ago when the Mayans left their footpaths.”

We were headed to Blancanceaux Lodge which happened to be owned by Frank Cuppola. The beautiful tropical landscaping was a surprise. We stayed in a lovely thatched roof cabana with a nice screened veranda that afforded us a spectacular view of a waterfall in the Privassion River beyond. All the electricity for the lodge was generated from a small facility on the river.

I spent the afternoon hiking around the area and enjoying the lovely landscaping. It was a quiet, peaceful afternoon.

The rainy season normally starts the end of May but that year the archaeologists left the area in mid-May, two weeks earlier than usual. This was not a good sign! 

 That night I fell asleep listening to the running water of the river behind our cabana not knowing if we would make it to the ruins in the morning. Would the weather let us attempt the trip? (Yes , we woke to a thumbs up, but more about that later.)

SWIM WITH DOLPHIN

SNORKELING HIGHLIGHTS and PETA

            If you read about my prescription mask months ago, you may recall that I’m claustrophobic so I do not scuba.

            In Belize we worked on the dolphin project part of each day and were told, “The snorkeling is great here in the lagoon. There are 46 species of hard coral growing in Belize plus many varieties of soft corals and sponges. We will snorkel around so you can see different places. The marshes and lagoons are just full of diverse marine life.”

            I have to start by saying that I’m no expert but I have snorkeled in may places around the world, including the Great Barrier Reef twice, and the very best has been in Belize.

We did snorkel every day, always in a different location. Sometimes the water was pretty deep, other times over a reef it seemed shallow enough to drag your belly over it if you didn’t suck that tummy in. The snorkeling was always great. One day I hung suspended staring at a barracuda. We both just stayed still and looked each other in the eye. Eventually I backed off and swam away.

The water was warm and crystal clear. Each day I thought the snorkeling could never be as good as the day before.  But it was!

At Lighthouse Reef it was like swimming in an aquarium!  Every kind of coral must grow here. I saw all kinds I had never seen before. What a thrill to just stay suspended over the reef and watch all the activity. This is positively the best snorkeling I’ve ever done.

 This might be a good time to relate one of my favorite adventures.

Peta is a female bottlenose dolphin who lives among the atolls of Belize. She used to be called Peter until he was discovered to be a she.

            At Lighthouse Cay we all swam around for about an hour over the reef in the aquarium-like clear warm water, but although Peta is known to hang out here she was nowhere in sight.

            We were all actually back on the boat when our researcher yelled, “Peta! There she is. She came to see us after all.”

Before anyone got back in the water we were told, “Peta loves to play. Because too much splashing and kicking is a signal to her to play, move in the water slowly. She is big and she could create a dangerous situation if she gets excited. You may enter the water 3-4 at a time and swim around with her for a bit, then when those get out of the water another 3-4 can go in.”

While I was in the water Peta headed for her favorite spot—the anchor. I watched her nose around in the sand and eat her find of fish. Then she came back to the surface and swam close to give me a friendly nudge as she circled by. I swam around the boat several times with Peta within an arm’s reach, but I never tried to touch  or harass her in any way.  What a thrill!

No one knows for sure where she goes or what Peta does at night, or even if she socializes with other dolphins. She is always seen alone and she obviously likes to socialize with humans.

In fact she got between a so-so swimmer and the ladder blocking the swimmer’s exit from the water as if saying, ‘stay a bit longer and play’. When the swimmer began to panic the researcher jumped in the water to divert Peta’s attention so the swimmer could get aboard the boat.

Swimming with Peta was the highlight of an absolutely fabulous exciting day!

TURNEFF ATOLL

I Picturesque Spot in the Middle of the Sea.

I went to Belize to participate in a bottlenose dolphin research project. Arriving at Blackbird Caye on Turneffe Atoll I thought I had found paradise. The lush remote island was surrounded by clear turquoise water. The warm Belizean sun bathed deserted sandy beaches. The serenity of the unspoiled natural beauty was awesome.

My cabana, being a triple, was a bit larger than some of the others. All had thatched roofs, a complete bath, and a nice little veranda furnished with chairs and a hammock. Cool ocean breezes kept the buildings comfortable. Large screened windows had a drop down shutter for rainy or stormy days. Without the cool sea breezes it would have been very hot. It had was such a South Seas atmosphere.

Turneffe, 32 miles from Belize City, is the largest of the three atolls and contains 4000 acres of jungle. The resort has a generator to produce all its own electricity and reverse osmosis machinery to produce its water supply. All the water from the faucets is drinkable.

Clearing the jungle for the resort must have been quite a job in the beginning as there was no power for tools at the start.

All of our meals were taken in a unique dining /recreation building. At dinner it was explained, “The front part of this building is round showing an African influence and the back of the building, the kitchen area, is square, indicative of Mayan culture.”

In the center of the large room stood a multi-sided (sexton) serving table. Looking up at the ceiling, the thatched roof resembled the underside of an umbrella. The floor was made of narrow strips of different native woods and the contrast of the boards was striking.

All of our food was prepared by native cooks and included native dishes. The food was good and I had absolutely no complaints. The fresh produce was wonderful. Besides citrus we ate papayas the size of small watermelons and mangos the size of cantaloupes. Never had I seen fruit so big in those varieties and they were so sweet, juicy, and flavorful. Delicious!

One afternoon my roommate and I decided to walk into the jungle to see what we could see. We tucked in pants bottoms in socks and tales of our long sleeved shirts into our waist band. After dousing hands, face and clothing in bug juice we were off. The swarms of mosquitoes were so numerous that we didn’t get very far before deciding our curiosity could remain just that. It was a relief to get back to our cleared bug-free resort.

I enjoyed a couple of wonderful weeks on the atoll and there is a lot more to share---another day.