SITKA, ALASKA

 A Charming Historic Town

Once the capitol of Russian America, Sitka is a charming small town at the northern end of most Inland Passage cruise destinations. It has a fascinating history and plenty to see and do, other than shopping, to fill your day. All major sites in this walkable city can be covered . Like all small cities along the Inland Passageway, Sitka exhibits magnificent scenery.

Two things I wanted my grandchildren to see were St. Michael’s, the Russian Orthodox Church, and the New Archangel Dancers, and I wanted to hike a bit in the National Forest.

Although I visited several Russian Orthodox churches in Russia I still learned a couple of things from the knowledgeable docent. He explained the three-bar Russian cross.
I had never seen or known about a riza, an exact replica of an icon done in 3-D shiny metal. Only body parts are left uncovered. The removable riza gives a glittery view of the icon while protecting it.
During the 1966 fire, people fled to the church to carry out the 16^th century icons, a 400-pound chandelier and the heavy oak entrance doors.
The U.S. Metropolitan, similar to a Catholic Cardinal, was due to arrive at noon. We made it back to the church to witness his unpretentious arrival.

The New Archangel Dancers perform authentic Russian dances at Centennial Hall. None of the female dancers is a professional nor of Russian heritage. They dance for exercise, fun and to keep Sitka’s Russian heritage alive though dance. As I admired their agility, I wished I could squat and kick at the same time!

It’s a short walk to Castle Hill and the 92 steps up to the site where Russia passed Alaska to the United States. There is nothing left of Baranof’s castle and the fort is little more than a wall, a cannon and an American flag.  Across the street, on the old Russian parade grounds, is Pioneer House, a home for the indigent to live. Once free, there now is a sliding payment scale. The home is similar to our old Soldier and Sailor Homes.

Walking the mile-long totem loop-trail in the Tongass National Forest was a delight. We studied the 28 totems and paused at the site of the 1804 Russian-Tlingit battle.

Strolling back along

Lincoln Street

—the main street—we photographed St. Peter’s by the Sea, the Russian Bishop’s house, the oldest house in Sitka, and some park statuary before stopping at a hatchery.

The Sheldon Jackson Museum was a real jewel of a find. The first concrete building in Sitka, 1895, houses Indian artifacts and history of six native Alaskan tribes. Mary Bear was on site making Christmas decorations from seal skin and elk. She showed and explained an otter head belt that is traditionally given to a girl at menses.

Each city along the Inland Passage has something different to offer, but Sitka is probably my favorite city.