MAUTHAUSEN

             My First Concentration Camp Visit 

Mauthausen is a WW II concentration camp; perhaps not as well known as some others, but still 159,000 people died there. Russia lost 32,000, Poland 30,000, and several other countries fewer numbers including 34 Americans.

This was my first of eventually four concentration camps that I’ve visited.

            Prisoners of War were transferred from Dachau, a German concentration camp, to build this camp. The site was chosen because of a nearby quarry. 186 steps led to and from the quarry. Every day 2000  people worked in the quarry. It’s hard to imagine how hard it must have been to carry heavy rocks from the quarry up all those steps all day long.

            A docent  told us, “Mauthausen was the first and largest concentration camp built in Austria. The name means Mother Camp.”

            This particular camp held both male and female prisoners as well as children. It also held social, political, criminal, and Jewish POWs. Each prisoner wore a colored triangle on his uniform. Red designated political prisoner, green social, black criminal, and all Jews had to wear a yellow Star of David below the triangle. Everyone also had a number tattooed on his arm.

            The Secret Service (SS) was in charge of this camp. The barracks had no heat to protect the prisoners from the cold winters.

            A guide continued, “All executions were carried out under the supervision of an SS doctor. Some were hanged, some injected, and many were gassed. The prisoners were told they were going to take a shower, and when the approximately 10 X 10 foot shower room was full of people the gas, instead of water,  was turned on in the overhead pipes.”

            It was a sobering experience to stand in that gas chamber. It gave me goose bumps and brought tears to many of our eyes.

            Next to the gas chamber was a room where gold fillings were extracted from teeth and skin was removed to be used in making lampshades. That very thought makes me shutter even today.

All the countries that lost people in this camp have erected a memorial in their honor. The memorials are all different, each powerful.

            There is a museum  inside one of the barracks where many pen and ink sketches  tell of the horrors which took place here. It took all of my willpower to look at them.

            Many visitors were present that day, many of them young people. Everyone was very quiet and subdued. The stillness was dramatic. It is good that the young, who were not living at that time, learn and not allow history to repeat itself.

The view of the countryside from the camp revealed the area to be a hilly, quiet, serene farming area.       The next day as we biked through the village, the beautiful countryside was overshadowed by the images of the previous day. Those images are etched in my memory forever.

WITLESS BAY ECOLOGICAL PRESERVE

                                  Puffins on a Cold Day

It was a cold windy day in Newfoundland when we set sail for the Reserve. I was grateful my jacket had an attached hood!

Three islands make up the reserve where the largest sanctuary of Atlantic puffins is located. Approaching Green Island the good natured fellow on the mike warned, “If you look up, keep your mouth shut as the birds fly overhead. There are thousands of birds here and they do not discriminate when it comes to expelling that little white stuff!”

            He continued to describe, “Puffins are small birds, only about eight inches long, and most people are surprised by their size. They have orange feet and  beak that has   gray .triangle  that is bordered with  a white stripe.  Their white breast is topped with a black coat. They are good swimmers and divers. Some people think they are penguins, but they are in no way related. They can hold a dozen fish in their beak when feeding their young.”

            Puffins live in burrows and that tends to kill tree and other roots. All the guano doesn’t help either. They mate for life and both parents sit on the egg and take care of the chick. The chicks are taught to toilet close to the burrow entrance, keeping their living quarters clean. The parents abandon the chick after 40 days. A week later the chick wanders out of the burrow and fledges in the moonlight under the cover of night. Their wings beat 300 times a minute to keep them in the air. An adult puffin returns to the same burrow year after year to lay one egg.

            The island is barren several meters above the water, but green after that with a few straggly trees on the top that provide nesting areas for storm petrels.

            The narrator continued, “Murrens nest on the ledges of Green Island and all over barren Gull Island. Murrens have no nest; they just lay their eggs on the edge. The eggs are sort of triangular shaped so they don’t roll around like oval ones do. The birds also cement the egg to the rock with guano. They live in huge tight-packed colonies on coastal cliffs and on other off-shore islands.”  The sky was covered with these little birds as we approached Gull Island.

            A large colony of kittiwakes also lives in the reserve. The smallest of the gull family, they appear to ski on the water. They are often referred to as ticklers as a pair of them fly so close together it seems as if they are tickling each other.

            Three kinds of whales migrate through the area. The captain was determined to find whales for us. We saw several blows. He said, “Whale watching is 90 percent patience and 10 percent luck. This morning the whales are diving very deep and blowing only about every half hour or so. They can stay submerged 35-40 minutes.”

            Toward the end of our cruise a momma and her calf played near the bow of the boat. The narrator commented, “Humpback whales are very social. Their average length is 35-40 feet, and the rule of thumb is they weigh 1000 pounds for each foot of length, so these whales weigh 35,000-40,000 pounds. They make quite a splash!

            “Fin whales, the second largest whale, are also found in the area. Their head is the size of a VW bug! We haven’t seen any yet this year. Grey whales migrate through these waters. They move fast and straight and care nothing about socializing.”

It was worth the breezy, rather rough ride to see all the birds in their natural habitat and it was a thrill to watch momma whale and her calf play off our bow!

TRAIL TO MACHU PICCHU

                                   Briefing and Trail Mantra

           In Peru we had an in country guide but also had special guides and porters for the four-day hike into Machu Picchu. One evening before the beginning of the trek we had an extensive briefing. We were told what to expect and how things would go. He just neglected to tell us how many very steep steps we would be navigating. It wasn’t all that far---give or take a good 25 miles but it was very rugged. During the briefing I was a little puzzled why the guide kept repeating as he looked directly at me, “We will all make it.”

            We were the only Americans on the trip and my son at 45 was the old man! The three Brit men, three Irish gals, two Englishmen and Canadian gal all were in their mid to late 20s.

            Later in the week I would learn that the porters and guides generally quit the rugged trek by age 40 as their hips and knees give out. I was just shy of 70! We also learned that very few Americans make the trek because we generally are not in good enough shape. After the fact I can say I’m glad I did it but would never do it again and if I’d had a really good handle of what it would involve I would think long and hard about undertaking the strenuous adventure. I had my son with me  and I truly would not have made it if he had not been at my side all the time. I was just exhausted, but my son irritated an old Little League knee injury which I did not learn about until we returned to Cusco where he spent a day or so sucking ibuprofen while lying in bed icing his injury.

            At the end of the first day I secretly entertained the thought that if I could have hired a helicopter to take me out I would have done it. However, I enjoyed the magnificent scenery. The flowers were gorgeous and all the birds, especially hummingbirds, were a delight. The many gurgling streams was music to my ears. The trail was dry which was fortunate as it would be very hazardous if it had been wet. The path was rocky, and for some reason I expected a rather good hard-pack path. Dream on! The three summits were a challenge and there was one day I literally hugged the inside of the trail next to the mountain wall as the drop was straight down thousands of feet into thick lushness where no one would ever find you.

            My son and I were always the last ones  off the trail which really didn’t bother me. Someone has to be last, right? Hey, at least I made it through that day! All the time I felt like the little engine that could. I can, I can, I think I can. Just one step in front of the other. And finally I DID. 

WINNIPEG, MANITOBA, CANADA

Winnipeg and Oak Marsh Interpretative Center

Winnipeg, meaning meeting of muddy waters, is very flat. The Assiniboini River runs into the Red River there. The east side of the river was settled by the French, the west side by the English.  Two large, distinct areas remain today. In the French Quarter, the signs are in French first, English second. One half of Manitoba’s population lives in Winnipeg.

Alberta, Manitoba, and Saskatchewan are Canada’s three Prairie Provinces. Manitoba, also known as the keystone province, is the easternmost province, and is nearly in the geographic center of the country. Manitoba is derived from an Indian word meaning Great Spirit and in 1870 was the fifth province to join the union.

The province is divided into three sections, north to south.  In the north is the sub arctic, in the center is the Canadian shield or boreal forest, and in the south are the low lands or grasslands.

In 1997 the Red River flooded reaching several miles wide. When I saw it, it was a mere few hundred feet across. Lake Winnipeg and Lake Manitoba, two large lakes, are north of Winnipeg. Interlake, the area between the lakes, has a large Icelandic settlement. Winnipeg is home to both the University of Winnipeg and the University of Manitoba.

The Oak Hammock Marsh Interpretive Center, located 40 miles outside of Winnipeg covers 36 square kilometers, of which 9000 acres are under wildlife management. Originally St. Andrews Bog covered 450 square kilometers, but by 1960 the bog was nearly dry. In the 70s and 80s the Federal and Provincial governments, along with Ducks Unlimited, reclaimed the bog, and changed its name to Oak Hammock. Why Oak Hammock? Once upon a time there was a hamlet between two oak groves where people often hung hammocks between the trees, hence the name. The Interpretative Center opened in 1993. At the time of my visit there were 200,000 migrating water fowl in residence.         

The center is one of the finest I’ve ever visited.  The hands-on activities were inviting. A TV monitor, attached to a remote camera in the marsh, provided an extensive view, way beyond that of the naked eye. Computers had neat information for one to access. Metal rubbings, lovely wildlife displays, fish tanks containing marsh fish, various puzzles, and a water tank with sand were among the many offerings. A fair size theater was available for presentations.

The center entertains 40,000 school children each year in a four month time frame of April-May and September-October.

Outside, it was windy and chilly, but a docent explained, “The marsh contains marsh, meadows, tall grass prairies, lure crops, and aspen and oak bluffs. There are 25 kilometers of hiking trails and dyke walkways in the park. 25,000 muskrats live in the marsh along with many insects, reptiles, amphibians, and mammals like rabbits, deer, and beaver. Since 280 species of birds migrate through the area, the marsh is one of the best bird viewing spots in North America.”

It was a very interesting and informative morning, certainly worth the ride on a cold windy day.

DUTCH WINDMILLS

                            Romantic Windmills

   

 I’m as intrigued with windmills as I am lighthouses and during my first short stay in Amsterdam I learned a bit about the windmills that have been part of the Dutch landscape for five centuries. It was explained to us, “There were two kinds of windmills. There were those used as a source of power, also called industrial windmills since they provided power for sawmills or gristmills. Then there were watermills or drainage mills used to keep water behind levies. These mills produced polders or reclaimed land.

      “By 1274 there were many watermills driven by rivers and streams. In 1414 the earliest drainage mills were invented and by 1450 many could be found in South Holland. The invention of the camshaft and crankshaft in the 17^th century made it possible to use the wind to power the mills. Although the mills did not originate in Holland, the Dutch developed the mills and made maximum use of them.”

       First the steam engine, then the combustion engine, and finally the electric motor brought the usefulness of the mills to a quick end. By 1923 only 3000 of the 10,000 mills in Holland remained and today the 1000 surviving mills are protected living monuments.

A lot of the windmills had living quarters at ground level that a keeper lived in just like they did in lighthouses years ago before everything was automated.

Someone in our group said that he had read the parchment paper that the Declaration of Independence was written on in 1776 was believed to have come from De Schoolmeester windmill, built in 1692.

A WW buff told us that windmills have four blade positions, and that during WW II prearranged resting positions signaled messages of approaching raids to those in hiding. Fascinating!

Leaving Amsterdam we glimpsed a few operating windmills in the distant pasturelands.

No matter what their use, I think windmills are picturesque and romantic.

           

A COUPLE OF STRANGE CRITTERS

        Natures Oddities 

 In Africa wildebeest wander by the millions. We unknowingly happened to be there during the migration to the Serengeti and what a sight it was to experience. One evening while camping in the Masai Mara, a  local guide at the end of his evening lecture told us the following:

When it was time for God to create the wildebeest he was running out of parts so he gave the animal the face of a grasshopper, the chin and beard of a goat, the tail of a horse. When it came time for his brain there was only room for an insect brain and that is why the poor animal often runs sideways, stumbles and easily gets confused.

In Australia the platypus is another strange being.  This semi-aquatic   mammal has a beaver tail, a duck beak and feet of an otter. They lays eggs instead of having a live birth. The body and broad, flat tail are covered with dense, brown fur that traps a layer of insulating air to keep him warm. The fur is waterproof, and the texture is like that of a mole. A carnivore, the platypus  uses its tail for storage of fat reserves.

 The male platypus has a spur on its hind foot that delivers venom capable of causing severe pain to a human. It is one of the few venomous mammals.

 Hunted for its fur until the early 20th century it is now protected. Captive breeding programs have had limited success.

TAQUILE ISLAND, PERU

           Interesting Island and Culture

Taquile is a fascinating real island as opposed to the floating islands seen in Lake Titicaca. The island,  about 3 ½ miles long, has several hills with Inca terracing and small ruins at the top. The scenery was beautiful with the deep earthy hills contrasting with the intense blue of the lake .  Add the backdrop of the mountains and the result was breathtaking!

The people speak Quechua rather than Aymara. The people have a strong sense of identity, rarely marrying non-Taquile people. There are no roads on the island, thus no vehicles, not even bicycles, and for some reason, no dogs. Electricity came to the island in 1990, but it is not available everywhere. The islanders own all the boats for transport, therefore keeping tight control on tourism levels.

The trail up to the main square was a long, winding, rocky path half-way around the island. It took about an hour to navigate the path up.    Women wear many layered skirts and intricately embroidered blouses. The men wear tightly woven woolen caps, and are often seen walking around the island knitting. Red hats signal the man is single, a red and white one that he is married. The women weave the elegant waistcoats the men wear. Under the waistcoat  a rough spun white shirt  is worn  all of which tops thick calf-length black pants. These people continue to live the cooperative lifestyle of their ancestors.

            It seems as if one is never idle. The men knit, the women all were hand-spinning yarn from wool carried on the hip in a cloth sack. Each seemed to have a different color wool, so it must be dyed raw, before spinning. It was a fascinating sight to observe.

          We had lunch on the island, and it was a pleasant surprise to find the Inca Cola well chilled. The vegetable soup was hearty and good. The rest of the meal was so so. There were 3-4 restaurants on the square, a small shop selling candy, film, and TP, and a craft shop selling knit goods.

Getting back to the bottom of the island and the boat was a trek down 550 steps. I didn’t count them, but I believe there were as many as we were told!

It was a long 3-hour ride back to Puno by boat. The lake was quite rough with a lot of white caps, apparently usual for that time day. When we did arrive back at the dock, we all got in a waiting mini-bus for a ride to the central square. At that point we knew our way to the hotel.

A CUBAN HERO

Che Guevara Memorial

Because of a schedule change and being in the neighborhood we visited the Che Guevara Mausoleum at Revolution Plaza. The memorial site is large and spans both sides of the road.  Stone bleacher/ steps lead to the top of the mausoleum.. At the top is a bigger than life bronze statue of Che holding his rifle. Armed guards surrounded the statue as if Che might suddenly come alive. Across the street is all plaza. I suppose one could say Che is looking down upon and protecting the plaza.

This was the only time we encountered armed guards who were argumentative. They argued with our guide and the gest of the conversation was that NO cameras were allowed inside, and no leaving them in your pocket! So we loaded her down with all our cameras to walk back to the bus with them.

Then there was some question about our entering the mausoleum, but eventually that was solved. The inside of the mausoleum was beautiful with granite walls, beautiful wood ceiling, and stone floor. Che’s body, discovered in Bolivia, was returned and entombed here in 1997.

Other rebels who died in Che’s army during the last stand are also buried there. It was very quiet inside. Leaving the tomb one flowed out onto an attractive foyer where our one ugly American started complaining loudly. The guide informed her we were to remain quiet. The museum was not open.

It was an interesting visit and the only time in two weeks that we ran into any opposition or saw obvious armed guards.