TAQUILE ISLAND, PERU

           Interesting Island and Culture

Taquile is a fascinating real island as opposed to the floating islands seen in Lake Titicaca. The island,  about 3 ½ miles long, has several hills with Inca terracing and small ruins at the top. The scenery was beautiful with the deep earthy hills contrasting with the intense blue of the lake .  Add the backdrop of the mountains and the result was breathtaking!

The people speak Quechua rather than Aymara. The people have a strong sense of identity, rarely marrying non-Taquile people. There are no roads on the island, thus no vehicles, not even bicycles, and for some reason, no dogs. Electricity came to the island in 1990, but it is not available everywhere. The islanders own all the boats for transport, therefore keeping tight control on tourism levels.

The trail up to the main square was a long, winding, rocky path half-way around the island. It took about an hour to navigate the path up.    Women wear many layered skirts and intricately embroidered blouses. The men wear tightly woven woolen caps, and are often seen walking around the island knitting. Red hats signal the man is single, a red and white one that he is married. The women weave the elegant waistcoats the men wear. Under the waistcoat  a rough spun white shirt  is worn  all of which tops thick calf-length black pants. These people continue to live the cooperative lifestyle of their ancestors.

            It seems as if one is never idle. The men knit, the women all were hand-spinning yarn from wool carried on the hip in a cloth sack. Each seemed to have a different color wool, so it must be dyed raw, before spinning. It was a fascinating sight to observe.

          We had lunch on the island, and it was a pleasant surprise to find the Inca Cola well chilled. The vegetable soup was hearty and good. The rest of the meal was so so. There were 3-4 restaurants on the square, a small shop selling candy, film, and TP, and a craft shop selling knit goods.

Getting back to the bottom of the island and the boat was a trek down 550 steps. I didn’t count them, but I believe there were as many as we were told!

It was a long 3-hour ride back to Puno by boat. The lake was quite rough with a lot of white caps, apparently usual for that time day. When we did arrive back at the dock, we all got in a waiting mini-bus for a ride to the central square. At that point we knew our way to the hotel.

A CUBAN HERO

Che Guevara Memorial

Because of a schedule change and being in the neighborhood we visited the Che Guevara Mausoleum at Revolution Plaza. The memorial site is large and spans both sides of the road.  Stone bleacher/ steps lead to the top of the mausoleum.. At the top is a bigger than life bronze statue of Che holding his rifle. Armed guards surrounded the statue as if Che might suddenly come alive. Across the street is all plaza. I suppose one could say Che is looking down upon and protecting the plaza.

This was the only time we encountered armed guards who were argumentative. They argued with our guide and the gest of the conversation was that NO cameras were allowed inside, and no leaving them in your pocket! So we loaded her down with all our cameras to walk back to the bus with them.

Then there was some question about our entering the mausoleum, but eventually that was solved. The inside of the mausoleum was beautiful with granite walls, beautiful wood ceiling, and stone floor. Che’s body, discovered in Bolivia, was returned and entombed here in 1997.

Other rebels who died in Che’s army during the last stand are also buried there. It was very quiet inside. Leaving the tomb one flowed out onto an attractive foyer where our one ugly American started complaining loudly. The guide informed her we were to remain quiet. The museum was not open.

It was an interesting visit and the only time in two weeks that we ran into any opposition or saw obvious armed guards.

BRATISLAVA, SLOVAKIA

       A Delightful City   

Driving to Bratislava from Vienna we drove through a medieval town and through its narrow old gate and part of the ancient city wall. It is said that Bratislava is a small city with a big heart.     

Bratislava is the largest city in Slovakia, serves as the country’s capital. and is the seat of Government of the Slovak Republic. It is situated in the center of Europe in the southwestern part of Slovakia, once part of Czechoslovakia. The town spreads like a fan on both banks of the Danube River at the foot of the Low Carpathians, where we saw many vineyards as we rode along. This is great wine country. In this  city of young people you can feel the excitement of their energy.

Austria borders Slovakia on the west, Vienna is only 35 miles away. Hungary borders on the south and the Hungarian border is only 16 K distant. Crossroads of ancient trading routes, it has been home to Celts, Romans, and Slavs. The reign of Maria Theresa is regarded as the golden era in the city’s history. She was crowned in St. Martin’s cathedral, when the city was known as Pressburg, as were10 other kings and 8 royal partners.  Pressburg was the capital of the Kingdom of Hungry for over 300 years. Actually the country was part of Hungary 900 years. In 1919 after World War I, the city was renamed Bratislava and made capital of the province of Slovakia.

During the time the city was called Pressburg or Pozsony, it was one of the most important cities in the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Today Bratislava, one of Europe's youngest capitals, is the most-rapidly growing urban region in Europe. The rich mix of cultures and nations not only left their mark in the language, but also in the customs, cuisine and lifestyle. People lived together in peace and harmony. Just like the Viennese, the people enjoy promenading through the streets of the city center taking time for coffee in one of the many cafés. That part of the city, combining elegance and charm, is called Korzo. There is a saying that a true Pressburgian speaks four languages,: Slovak, German, Hungarian, and Mishmash,  a combination of two or more languages in the same sentence.

Bratislava is in a triangle of three capital cities. Vienna is a merely 35 miles away, Prague 380 miles, and Budapest only 120 miles. Bratislava is the gateway to Slovakia both practically and symbolically. Due to its position on the border between  mild and warm climatic zones, it ranks among the warmest spots in Slovakia. The city of music has a population of 450, 000.

The main square in Old Town is the historic heart of the city. The old city is packed with museums and palaces. The town gate is 14^th century and the clock is 16^th century. There is an old cannon ball still in the wall of the town hall and there are several others around the city. The fountain in the main square dates to 1570. Old palaces house museums or libraries for the three universities that 70,000 student attend.

Many beautiful monuments survive in the old town yelling its past under Hungarian rule, and Bratislava's numerous museums are surprisingly rich. Franz Liszt visited Bratislava 15 times, and the opera productions of the Slovak National Theater rival any in Europe. Bratislava isn't as popular  a tourist destination as Budapest and Prague---yet! Cruise ships are beginning to make stops.

The square castle-fortress, perched high on the hill overlooking the Danube, dominating the city skyline, was a favorite residence of the Hapsburg Queen, Maria Theresa. It was built as a frontier post of the Roman Empire from the 1st to the 5th century. Since the 9th century it has been rebuilt several times, most recently between 1953 and 1962. After moving the court to Vienna, the castle became a general seminary, i.e. an educational institution for outstanding scholars. Later the castle was used by the army. An 1811 fire destroyed the castle-fortress and reconstruction did not take place until the 1960s. It now houses the Slovak National Museum, Historical Museum and Music Museum. It also contains the reception rooms of the president and parliament of the Slovak Republic.  President Bush and Russia’s Vladimir Putin met in Bratislava in February 2005.

            The 11th-century Gothic cathedral was restored in the second half of the 19th century.  The ruins of the former royal palace of Hungary overlook the city from a hill. The Franciscan church dates to the 13th-century as does the town hall edifice, The University of Bratislava was founded in 1919.      

I noticed some changes on my second visit three years later. The one kiosk in the square had increased to about 25, plus more kiosks were on another street. Souvenir items are now readily available when before they were just about non-existent. The very clean city is free of litter and graffiti. making it easy to view  the wonderful architecture.

A major industrial center, Bratislava is known for building VW cars and historically the manufacture of furniture, chemicals, tobacco products, musical instruments, woolen goods, and leather products. Kia and the high tech industry are also active here. Today the city is experiencing another boom. The city welcomes tourists, business people, and investors who are attracted to the blooming city and its lively atmosphere.

           

FUN WITH LANGUAGE

Helpful to Know

I’m  fascinated with England’s language. It’s the same language I speak, but across the pond understanding can be confusing as well as humorous at times. Eating can be an interesting adventure and perhaps even a surprise. Let me spin a little tale for you.

In a restaurant you may wonder if you want a jacket potato (baked potato) and faggots (meatballs). How did a steamed suet pudding become spotted dick? The biscuits you ordered turn out to be sweet cookies. But no matter, you’ll have a little  jelly with them which turns out to be jello. So you order jam and settle for the jelly. The waiter has just returned from holiday (vacation) and asks if you want any afters (dessert).

Do you want crisps (potato chips) or chips (fries) with your refreshment. Be careful because if you drink too much you might get sloshed, paralyic, bevvied, popped up, rattled, or even pissed as a newt!  Maybe for breakfast you’ll have some bangers (sausage)

When all is said and done you leave your serviette (napkin) on the table and are glad you aren’t washing up (doing dishes) because you are quite knackered (exhausted) and since you’ve been traveling all night it’s been donkey’s ears (ages) since you’ve slept.

            The next day you choose a coach for your travels where you see many lorries (trucks) on the motorway (freeway). Every so often as you ride along you see petrol ( gas) stations. When the coach reaches the round-a-bout (traffic circle) it goes anti-clockwise (counter clockwise) and gives way (yields) to other traffic. The trunk of a vehicle is the boot and the hood is the bonnet. The off side of a vehicle is the driver side and the near side is the opposite side, which is the side closest to the curb. Remember the English drive on the left side of the road.

            You get off the coach to muck around (browse) in the chemist shop (pharmacy). You may be looking for sticking plaster (adhesive tape) or elastoplast (bandaids). Later you stop at the iron monger’s shop (hardware store) and look for a torch (flashlight). You might even ask where you can find a shooting stick (cane). Wandering over to the stationary area you look for rubbers (erasers), scribbling blocks (scratch pads) and you might even spot a cute souvenir money box (bank) for the grandkids.

In the pharmacy there are children with dummies (pacifiers) in their mouth and you hope their nappies (diapers) are dry. Older children are fussing for iced lollies (popsicles) and candy floss (cotton candy). And every mother of little ones knows eventually she’ll have to spend a penny for a trip to the loo (bathroom).

When I bought my first theater ticket I was asked, “Balcony or stalls?”

I was confused me as I was going to the theater, not the barn. I guess the look on my face said it all and the gal explained, “Stalls are the main part of the theater.”

I could continue on for a long time, but I think this is enough for one day. Hope this produced a smile from you.

LONDON

          A Wonderful City

London is a popular travel destination and with the recent royal wedding, coverage of the city has been extensive. A quote from my diary on my first visit to the city seems to say it all: London is one of the most exciting, historic, traditional, vibrant and artistic cities in the world. Centuries of  history, timeless traditions, and culture with its familiar landmarks draws one to London. Once the capitol of a world empire, London has harmony, elegance, and royal magnificence. There are exciting visions around every corner.

The popular tourist spots have been so well covered that I’m going to bypass them and concentrate on a few lesser well know items. Language terms can be a little mystifying at first. Elevators are lifts and tend to be small. The subway is called the tube or underground. Be prepared to climb lots and lots of stairs. Getting off the tube you’re always reminded by a recorded voice to mind the gap (watch your step, there’s a gap between the train and platform.) Most stations have 3-4 entrances/exits so to avoid walking around the block pay attention to which exit you want . A circus is a traffic circle and there are many in the city. Remember the English drive on the left so be careful crossing the street. Often crosswalk signs warn one to look right. A flashlight is a torch, and a washcloth, which you will not find in your hotel room, is called a flannel.

Public transportation is very good making it  easy to get around the city. It is also a very walkable city, especially in areas where many tourist attractions are located.

The once well known drab, tasteless English food is from a bygone era. Today there are over 6000 restaurants in London representing every ethnic food you can imagine. This is not a city to use a McDonald's or Pizza Hut as a reference point or meeting place, as there is one on every corner! One can eat in elegant and expensive restaurants, in pubs, single bistros, fast food establishments or picnic in the park with carryout or take away. The pub has long been the center of the community, and it is an important social institution known for its humor, warmth, and good food. It is a good place to have lunch. There are over 5000 pubs in London.

The English are not coffee drinkers and if you are a real coffee drinker you’ll probably be disappointed unless you are a Starbucks fan and partake there. Although tea is the drink of Britain it is not drunk with or after a meal. Tea time is generally 11AM and 4PM.  Tea is also a crisis drink; any time one has a problem it is talked about over tea. Tea drinking is pretty much the center of the family. The English consume 345 million pounds of tea annually! They like their tea strong and it must be brewed. Tea bags and/or lemon are both frowned upon.

          High Tea in the late afternoon is an event in itself. It also is a meal which can include finger sandwiches, scones, crumpets, and sweets with jams and jellies, and or clotted cream. There are a couple of rules governing the taking of high tea: take small sips, small bites, and small talk, no big or controversial subjects.

The well know fare of fish and chips is difficult to find in London today which is really a shame. On one trip we spent a fair amount of time trying to find a spot to partake this favorite meal. We asked numerous people and even stopped at an information booth for directions. Finally we found a pub in Soho and enjoyed our indulgence.

A LESSON LEARNED

                               Never Again  

      

            The first time I was in Vienna I never dreamed that I would return another three times so I just had to see Salzburg.  A friend and I booked a tour which ended being a three hour drive which meant we spent six hours on a bus. The countryside was lovely but still---. It was a multi lingual tour and by the time the guide had given the information in German, Spanish, French and then in English the site was long gone and the English version was very short. Feeling short changed the entire way only fueled my frustration. .

            In spite of an early morning start, our time in Salzburg was limited  only allowing us to see the minimal highlights. The city was founded in 696 by an archbishop who ruled for many years. The monastery, St. Peter, is the oldest one north of the Alps. The city derives its name from the salt found in the mountains. Several foot bridges cross the Sclzach River  which separates the old and new part of the city. The colorful facades along the river in the old city are picturesque. As is common in old cities, an ancient castle sits high on the hill behind the city.

            Along the river in the new city are the beautiful Mirabel Gardens. A 17^th century fire reduced the city to ashes. The archbishop loved the wide open spaces that now house the gardens. We actually got lost in the gardens when on return we thought we crossed the same bridge as we did earlier in the day. But, then again, what better place to get lost!

            Mozart was born in Salzburg in 1756 but died in Vienna in 1791. His birthplace, located just behind the pedestrian mall, is easy to find.  We enjoyed walking through his home and seeing the museum, but would have enjoyed it more if there had been some English sub-titles. Many international music festivals are held in Salzburg in the summer and during holidays.

            The shopping plaza is full of fascinating shops where wrought iron signs tell one in pictures what kind of a shop it is. McDonalds even managed to set up shop and conformed with its own wrought iron sign---no golden arches here.

            We chose one of the small restaurants for lunch. It was a cool cloudy day so we both opted for hot soup which was  really a goulash. It was delicious, but we had to put up with a surly waitress. After numerous attempts to get her attention to bring us the bill, we finally had to get up and make motions to leave. That caught her attention and we got our bill in a hurry. We would have loved to have had the time to linger over a cup of hot tea, but our time was much too limited.

            Seeing only the highlights put Salzburg on my return list. It had been a long and somewhat frustrating day. It definitely was my first and last multi-lingual tour of any kind! It was a good learning experience! 

BIKING ANNOYANCES

Wind and Flat Terrain

When biking, I never thought that I would think flat was boring. But leaving Krems, Austria that is what we encountered  and the day’s ride was really pretty bleak,  monotonous. and seemed to last forever !  I was glad it was the end of our bike trip and not the beginning—the bleakness that is.

On the way to Melk, Austria we ran into a head wind.  It was a very tough 35-mile day, because when biking into the wind you can never rest. If you stop peddling the bike comes almost to a stop. Everyone looked tired when we arrived, and I really think I prefer the rain to the wind, and I never thought I would say that either.

          When biking France’s Bordeaux country we stopped in Soulac for a picnic lunch at the beach. The wind was blowing hard enough that we had to keep everything covered to prevent sand from blowing into our food and drinks. When we left to continue on,  the tail wind was so strong that all we had to do was balance on the bike as the wind literally pushed us along! It was really strange. However, this day we did have time restraints as we needed to be in Verdan to catch the ferry across the Gironde River to Royan. We had a fair distance to cover and if this wind had been a head wind I’m certain we would have missed our ferry. We didn’t have to work very hard to clip along at a decent speed. What a nice change!