Showing posts with label Kuna Indians. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kuna Indians. Show all posts

Sunday, February 3, 2013

KUNA INDIANS of PANAMA



Kuna Culture
            The Kuna live in large extended family groups in thatched huts with dirt floors. They sleep in hammocks and hang their clothes from the rafters of their huts. They are a well organized people who are commercially aggressive, but not pesky.
            When a boy marries he moves in with the girl and her family. The woman owns the house, property, and wealth which makes it desirable for the hard working men to maintain it. They transit daily via cayuca (small boat) to tend their crops. Men weave large utilitarian baskets.  Women do not go into the jungle or work in the fields; they are strictly domestic and dominate their men.           
            The Kuna are physically small. Women usually stand shy of 5 foot.  Men dress European style in shorts or long pants and tee shirts. The women always wear a blouse decorated front and back with a mola. They also wear either a short or long sarong. Their short hair is always covered with a red and gold head scarf. Multi strands of seed necklaces are worn around their neck as well as rows of beads on their arms and legs. Women also wear a gold band through their nose.
            The women are creative and artistic. They spend many hours doing very fine needlework on the reverse cut appliqué called mola. Mola means cloth. The molas are colorful, unique and are used as clothing decoration, accessories, as well as wall hangings. Coconut is a large barter crop which pays for the material and thread from either China or Columbia. They use fine quality goods to make their molas.
            All cooking is done in a separate cook house and is done in large quantities in 5 gallon pots over large fires. Fires are generally made of seven-foot long mangrove logs in the shape of wheel spokes. Mangrove is the wood of choice because it is smokeless. Rice, rum, and sugar are also imported. The men fish and fish is a stable in their diet. Fresh fruit is plentiful, especially bananas, papaya, and coconut. Fresh water comes from the rivers.
            The immediate Kuna family unit is small, usually two or three children. The infant mortality rate is high, but if a child survives the first couple years of life he has a good chance of  living to be 70.  Eye problems are common at a fairly young age. It also was interesting to learn that the Kuna have a 1:25 chance of being albino compared to a 1:28,000 for whites. Society accepts the different—homosexual, albino, or whatever. If a male, he most often will work with the women.
Kuna cemeteries are on the mainland and always near a river. The dead are buried in their hammock, with all their personal possessions. The funeral is the day after death but no later  than the second day.
Kuna use a witch doctor and pay him if they are satisfied with his treatment. They practice monogamy; in fact adultery is a felony. The Sahila is the leader and has authority over the community. The national government provides schooling through junior high. The Kuna have adapted but continue to keep their beliefs, myths, legends and traditions.
The Kuna do a complicated dance which really is a sport and in which they have regular competitions. The language is Spanish as well as a local dialect.
Because these people are commercial it is customary to pay a dollar to take their picture. General pictures of the village are ok, but if you take a picture of individuals or of  children you must pay.

Wednesday, January 30, 2013

SAN BLAS ISLANDS


                  Relaxing in the San Blas Islands of Panama

The morning after we had transited the Panama Canal I walked out on deck with a cup of coffee and saw incredibly beautiful small islands everywhere.
I was to learn that San Blas is one of Panama’s provinces and is also an archipelago of 365 small islands that are home to the Kuna (also spelled Cuna) Indians. Only a few of the larger islands are inhabited. The small islands have lovely sand beaches and a few palm trees for shade.
A gently arched barrier reef extends 110 miles to the Colombian border on the south. The reef is one of the oldest in the world and is the focus of a study by Smithsonian scientists. Try to visualize the reef as a rainbow with three colors. The outside is blue, ten miles wide with 250 uninhabited islands with coconut palms and deserted white sand beaches. This is what I had seen. There is no tillable land on these islands as they are all sand. There is no fresh water, but it is said that the fishing is great as is the swimming and snorkeling.
In the center of the rainbow is a yellow strip, only a mile wide with a cluster of slightly larger islands that are inhabited by large families/clans of Kuna Indians. This area is population dense with 50,000 Kuna Indians living in 50 villages.
The inside 3-5 -mile -wide strip is green and represents the jungle. The Kuna men tend fields here with a slash and burn agricultural style. However, they clear only small areas, 3-5 acres, at a time and are not involved in commercial farming, have no animals, do not irrigate, and use no pesticides or chain saws. Their farming is strictly survival and when they move the jungle takes over their fields again.
That afternoon the captain ran the ship up on the sandy beach at Acuatupu and tossed a line around a coconut tree. Tupu means island.  Our small ship had a very shallow draft and its unique design allowed us to leave the ship via a ladder in the bow. The water was warm and we all stayed in it for some time. The snorkeling wasn’t worth putting a mask on for. The island was small and it was easy to walk around it. We chose to do so in shallow water rather than on the sand. There was not a speck of litter.
The next day we made another bow landing at Quin Quin in the morning. The crew put the glass bottom boat in the water so we snorkeled dry. The coral was numerous and the water fairly shallow so better viewed from the boat than trying to swim over it and not touch it.
That afternoon we ran the boat up on the beach again, at Wayshalatupu. We spent all afternoon in the clear warm water. Late in the afternoon the crew brought buckets of pina coladas onto the beach and we had a regular beach party. It was a wonderful fun restful day.      
We remained here all night. The next morning the captain delayed getting under way until 10:00 AM so we could swim after breakfast. When we did get underway he laid off a reef at Tupu Tupu for the diehards to snorkel the reef.
Late that afternoon we stopped at Carti Village on a bigger island. The market place had hundreds of little stands and there were reverse appliqué molas everywhere in all designs and colors.
I hated to leave the peaceful San Blas Islands, but all good things do eventually come to an end. The Kuna culture is an interesting one and will be the next post.