MITLA and YAGUL

                 Different Archaeological Sites

       Another day we hired a cab to go to Mitla. A couple from Massachusetts, also staying at the B& B joined us. At the end of the day it had cost us twelve dollars each to have a private driver.

    We entered the site through an opening in an unusual cactus fence.       Mitla meaning place of the dead is an ancient Zapotec village that dominated the area in the 1300s. Located on a high plateau it provides a wonderful view of the surrounding valley. As we entered the site we latched on to an English speaking guide, but it was evident that he had a group, not just a random bunch of people. I spotted the gal I thought was the leader, and since another guide was nowhere in sight,  quietly spoke to her  asking if we could tag along,  and pay her guide when finished. That worked out well for all of us.

      The Mitla ruins are very different from the much larger Monte Alban. We wandered through many rooms of the ruins admiring the intricate geometric designs on the walls known as greca {Greek-like} frets. Some were in very good condition and it took 100,000 stones to create them. Instead of being carved, each is an individual stone. Amazing! It is believed that these designs and techniques are from a Mixtec influence. Mitla hit its apex about 1350 with a population of about 10,000, and remained occupied and in use for generations after the Spanish conquest.

     Several very steep narrow steps lead up to a room containing six large monolithic columns that once supported a roof. On each side of the palace of columns is a long room with restored lashed bamboo roofs. The greca frets were in particularly good condition here.

A tomb was open for inspection but to enter one practically had to crawl as the opening was but 40-45 inches high.

       In 1592 the Spanish built a church which today continues to serve the present town of San Pablo Villa de Mitla. Builders used the original temple stones from Mitla to build the church. A large crystal chandelier hung on a rope thrown over a beam of the bell tower. We left the church just as some sort of service was starting.

       On the way back to Oaxaca we asked the driver to stop at Yagul, Zapotec meaning old tree. These ruins were different from either of the others. Only six miles from Mitla and sharing similar architectural details, the size and complexity of its buildings suggest it was an independent city/state. Archaeological evidence indicates that Yagul was occupied for about 1000 years until around 1100-1200 AD.

      The Palace of Six Patios has three identical complexes of two patios each. In each patio, rooms surround a central courtyard. The northerly patio of each complex was more private and probably a residence where the other more open rooms may have served administrative needs. It was almost like a maze to walk among the rooms and a couple of times we did have to backtrack.

      A large ball field is included in the site. It was a clear day and the views of the valley were great. However, it was very hot and we all decided we did not need to climb to the top for a view that probably was not much better but perhaps more panoramic.