Sunday, August 23, 2015

St JOHN, NEW BRUNSWICK

                      Not to be confused with St Johns, New Foundland

     St John, on the southern coast of New Brunswick, is the largest city in the province as well as Canada’s oldest incorporated city.  Located at the mouth of the St. John River, covering an area of 121 square miles, the city has a population of about 75,000. Once called the Loyalist City, it is most often referred to today as Fundy City.
      The topography surrounding St John is hilly; a result of the influence of two coastal mountain ranges--the St. Croix Highlands and the Caledonia Highlands--which run along the Bay of Fundy. Frequent granite outcroppings rise from the rocky soil. Flying into the city I could see the forest below  opened up with numerous ponds, lakes, streams and rivers. Loch Lomond, a large lake, is part of the water shed for the city.
     The year-round, ice-free harbor was probably first entered in 1524 by Gomez, a Spaniard, and named Rio De La Buelta. Earlier still, Basque, Breton and Norman fisherman are believed to have made voyages to the Bay of Fundy in the early 1500s. History records show that French explorers Sieur de Monts and Samuel de Champlain arrived at the mouth of what is now the St. John River on June 24, 1604, feast day of St. John the Baptist.---hence the name.
     Portland Point, near where H.M.C.S. Brunswicker is located, is an important historic landmark, and is where the first permanent French settlement in that part of Acadia, now New Brunswick, was made. The city was fortified by Charles La Tour who was Lieutenant Governor 1631-1635 and who engaged in trade with the natives.
     Thousands of Irish immigrants were quarantined on Partridge Island during the time of Ireland’s Great Famine. Many died while sailing in crowded unsanitary cargo vessels. Hundreds more died on the overcrowded island with inadequate shelter, medical care, sanitation, and drinking water.  
     Those hardy enough to make it ashore faced continued poverty, prejudice, and great challenges in finding gainful employment in the Loyalist City, thus an Irish community was established in St John during the late 19th century. Over the years immigrants with the means traveled further abroad seeking better opportunities in the west or south in the United States.
     After the 1877 fire that reduced much of the city to ashes, the Irish laborers played no small role in rebuilding the destroyed city, this time with brick and stone.
      King‘s Square, laid out with the bandstand in the center, has six radiating paths leading from it to the bordering streets. The copper roof and filigree metal framework of the King
Edward VII Memorial Bandstand, constructed in 1908, was a gift from the City Coronet Band. It quickly became a favorite location for musical interludes in King’s Square. This beloved Saint John landmark was restored in 2013.
     Nearby the Loyalist Burial Ground lies in the center of a leafy, peaceful, park-like area with lovely gardens.  Established in 1783, many Americans loyal to the British crown are also buried here. After the cemetery closed in 1848 it slowly fell into disrepair. In 1995 the Irving enterprise restored the cemetery and its park. A sweet bronze beaver fountain, sitting in the middle of a small pond, was added during restoration. . Beaver, a symbol of Canada, is found on both the money and flag.
     The Old City Market is where locals go to buy fresh produce, meat and fish. The outer perimeter houses the meat, fish and food stalls. Craftsmen inhabit the center of the market and between these two are the fresh produce stalls. The market still accommodates bench merchants—those who do not show on a daily basis.
     The original graceful, but heavy wrought iron, gates still open and close the market each day. A year after opening, the market managed to survive the great fire, although surrounded by flames. It also survived urban renewal and remains the heart of the city.
     Walking the Trinity Royal Heritage Conservation Area, the city’s historic district, so designated in 1982, gives one a real feel for the city. Here you’ll find Victorian brick buildings built after the fire of 1877 housing shops, restaurants, pubs, art galleries, other businesses, as well as private homes.
     Walk along the Waterfront  to see the harbor activity. Look back for the skyline. The   Coast Guard station is right in the middle of the activity. The Chamber of Commerce is just up from the waterfront.It houses sculptures and a unique library on the second level. A small park with a big ole bronze moose is across the street.
      There is much to see and do in St. John. A quick Google search will give you a rundown of hotels in the city.

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