SVENDBORG, DENMARK

                         A Lovely Small Danish  City

        Svendborg, a city of 43,000, was founded in the 11^th century by a Danish king. Much of the décor reflects its maritime history as one-half of all Danish ships were  built here. Once a major seaport, shipping today plays only a minor role, however over 300 ships are registered in Denmark. In the late 1800s, 593 people had shares in ships that sailed the world producing much wealth.

        A local guide told us, “There is almost zero tide in the southern part of Denmark, and  strangely enough, wind affects the tide most in Svendborg. We do not have the normal six hour tide; there are long spells when the wind does not create any tide for days.” An interesting phenomenon!

      Good clay in the area produced a brick-making industry in 1160. Nearly all of the buildings in the country are brick or half brick and wood, with the wood making diagonal designs which are known everywhere as uniquely Danish.

        Svendborg, like most ancient cities, was walled until 1535. A 1749 fire   convinced people that tile roofs were a better choice than the picturesque thatched ones. Thatched roofs are expensive to build and to insure, but it is a tradition many wish to maintain especially in the countryside’s small villages.

           Brothels were common when Svendborg was a major shipping harbor. They were done away with in 1902 and prostitution was declared illegal in 1907. In 1996 prostitution was again declared legal in Svendborg.

         St. Michael’s church, of Roman architecture, is one of the oldest in the country. Now below street level, the large church was beautiful in its simplicity. The pulpit dated to 1585 and the Lutheran bell to 1504. The bell tower was added in the 15^th century. St. Michael is the patron saint of sailors so ship models hang from the church ceilings ---- a common practice in Denmark churches.

        The well in the city center has been restored, but no longer used as the water is brackish. The water was once used to make local beer. The tide, when there is one, is reflected in the well. The water now is polluted with lead, cadmium, and mercury.

         We found neither A/C nor window screens. We left our windows open in the hotel at night but never had a bug problem. When eating outside sometimes we had to fight the bees for our food. They were plentiful and everywhere. They were elongated kind of skinny little devils. No one ever got stung though.

         Although the number of farms has decreased, the farms have become bigger and ¾ of the country is farmland. Wheat is a major crop. Kellogg’s is everywhere, we peddled by many many of their fields. Sugar beets and corn follow wheat as major crops. Farms, including the main house and barns are built  U shaped with a central court. Quite different from our farms.

         It is said there are twice as many pigs in Denmark as people. Danish ham is a big export item. Fishing, especially for herring, is also big. The national drink is beer. Tuborg and Carlsborg are well known. There are many local beers.

       I’ve visited Denmark several times and biked a good part of it over several islands. It is a delightful country with friendly people, and I have many fond memories.