BRUGES, BELGIUM

                                   Wonderful Ancient City 

Bruges is located in the old heart of Europe, between the triangle of London, Paris, and Amsterdam. Just for confusion’s sake Bruges is also spelled Brugge, although the computer likes the former spelling, the latter spelling is Flemish. Belgium is one of Europe's great secrets. Almost lost between Germany and France in the middle of Europe, tiny Belgium is easily overlooked. The city is pronounced a couple of different ways. BROO-ghah, is how the Flemish, who live in this part of Belgium, pronounce their town. The French half of the country, and English speakers, call it Bruges broozh. However you pronounce it, the name comes from the Viking word for "wharf." In other words---it's been a trading center for a long time.

            Our hotel couldn’t have been better located as we were only a 2-3 minute walk from The Burg, the heart of the city. Although a small country, Belgium has one of the highest population densities in Europe. An efficient rail and road network allows large numbers of people to move around the country each day. Bruges, with Renoir canals, graceful bridges, fairy-tale turrets overhead, fanciful gilded architecture, vivid time-tunnel art, cobbled streets and stay-awhile cafés, I believe is one of the best cities in Belgium. It is truly picturesque, quaint and lovely with a non-hurried more leisurely pace.

The  church bells ring every fifteen minutes and at times the bell ringer plays a concert. We were in the area for one such hour-long concert on a Sunday. Nice! After a while you just don’t give the bells a second thought.

Originally a ninth-century fortress was built to protect the Flemish coast from marauding Vikings. Bruges today retains its reputation as one of the best-preserved Old World cities on the continent. Its museums hold some of the oldest and finest collections found anywhere. Its narrow, winding, cobbled streets meander through the city along-side a centuries-old canal system. With nearly every street lined with historic buildings, the best way to see this one-time capitol of Western Flanders is on foot. And walk we did for days, always going in a different direction!

Archeologists have found evidence that Bruges was the site of a Roman fortress, or at least an outpost.  Defensive mounds can be seen around the city boundaries. Old maps show a wall surrounding the city and some of the eight gates remain. An ancient powder tower that was part of the Middle Ages defensive system is still in place. In the 12^th century, Bruges was the economic capital of Europe, and the 14^th century was the Golden Age for the city.

In the 15th century, while England and France were slogging it out in a 100 years-long war, Bruges was at peace and the favored residence of the powerful and sophisticated Dukes of Burgundy. Commerce and the arts boomed. The trade center was due to a thriving wool and textile trade. Wealthy textile merchants built beautiful homes. The city, known for its fine lace work, has a long lace history dating back to the 15^th century.

By the 16th century, the city’s harbor silted up, and trade moved to the port of Antwerp thus collapsing the economy and ending Bruges' Golden Age. The town slumbered for generations and then, in the 20th century, tourists discovered its charms.

The very first day we learned that a Boys’ Choir was performing at the English Church that evening. Having missed the Vienna Boys’ Choir every time I’ve been in Vienna I was anxious to attend this concert. We left a briefing session just as the stupid questions started and  headed directly to the nearby church which we had scouted out earlier in the day. Warwickshire County Choristers was made up of 120 boys, ages 8-14. The director had a good sense of humor and the boys seemed to be having a fun time. They were touring, so we were lucky to be in the right place at the right time. What a bonus!