Sunday, November 10, 2013

FLANDERS FIELD, BELGIUM


                                 Flanders Field 
This seems like an appropriate time for this post in memory of all our veterans.

            Flanders Field is located in the medieval County of Flanders, which spans southern Belgium and north-west France.
            We were met on arrival by the American manager of the cemetery who told us, “The agency that maintains 24 cemeteries is called the American Battles Monument Commission and is an independent agency falling under the executive branch. General Pershing was the first executor of the organization.”
            While in the warm building he continued, “The crosses are made of Italian white marble. There are two Jewish Unknown Soldier markers in the cemetery. Nine days after Lindberg’s solo flight, he flew over the cemetery and dropped a bouquet of red poppies. The occupants of this cemetery were the first and last to act under foreign command—Belgium. There are no women buried here.” The first Memorial Day was in 1924.
            Of course during WW I no women served in the armed forces.          A crew of four maintains the cemetery. All the stones are washed first thing each week day with water and a soft brush. When a family member visits, the stone is dampened and engravings filled with Normandy sand. This gives a golden glow to the engravings and makes them stand out in photographs.

Battlefield
            The German military used poison gas for the first time on the Western Front which saw the beginning of ‘trench warfare’ that characterized this global war. The Battle of Passchendaele (third battle) ended when British, Canadian, Australian and New Zealand forces recaptured the Passchendaele ridge, east of the city but at tremendous loss. During three months of fighting
over 750,000 men lost their lives.     The American Cemetery and Memorial is the only American World War I cemetery in Belgium and is the smallest American cemetery in Europe. There are 368 American servicemen who died in Belgium buried or commemorated  here. The cemetery occupies a six acre site, and as with all Allied war cemeteries, the land was provided in perpetuity by the Belgian government.
The headstones are aligned in four symmetrical areas around the white stone chapel that stands in the center of the cemetery. The altar inside the chapel is made of black and white Grand Antique marble with draped flags on each side. A crusader's sword outlined in gold is above the altar. The chapel furniture is carved oak, stained black with white veining to harmonize with the altar. The side walls of the chapel are inscribed with the names of 43 missing American servicemen who have no known graves. The small chapel has a gorgeous ceiling.
Masses of graceful trees and shrubbery frame the burial area and screen it from passing traffic. At the ends of the paths leading to three corners of the cemetery are circular retreats, with benches and urns.         
During WW I, Canadian physician, Lt. Colonel John McCrae, is believed to have written this famous poem in May 1915 after witnessing the death the day before of his 22-year-old friend, Lieutenant Alexis Helmer.  The poppies referred to grew in profusion in Flanders in the disturbed earth of battlefields and cemeteries and thus became a symbol of Memorial Day, November 11, when WW I ended on the 11th  day of the 11th month at 11 AM.

            In Flanders fields the poppies blow
             Between the crosses, row on row,
             That mark our place; and in the sky
             The larks, still bravely singing, fly
             Scarce heard amid the guns below.

            We are the Dead. Short days ago
            We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
               Loved and were loved, and now we lie,
             In Flanders fields.

            Take up our quarrel with the foe:
            To you from failing hands we throw
             The torch; be yours to hold it high.
               If ye break faith with us who die
            We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
                          In Flanders fields

Needless to say this was a somber but memorable visit. The American manager was kind, helpful and answered all of our questions. 



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