HIGH TEAS

                          The Empress Hotel  High Tea and Alternative

In 1908 the   chateau- style Empress Hotel was built by the Canadian and Pacific Railroad as

the most western hotel in its chain across Canada. Overlooking the harbor, it has become a symbol of Victoria and now is a National Historical Landmark of Canada.

In 1965 there was much debate about tearing down what had become a faded, dowdy hotel to make room for a more modern high-rise hotel. But because of civic concern the hotel underwent a renovation in 1965. In 1999, Canadian Pacific spun off its Canadian Pacific Hotels to the Fairmont Hotel chain.

The Empress now has three sittings for tea each afternoon. I was disappointed to see that tea is now served in the hotel lobby, often with a line of people waiting to get in. That couldn’t hold a candle to the wonderful high-tea I had in 1989 in the hotel’s Crystal Ballroom. The tux-clad waiters were attentive as they served us tiny finger sandwiches, scones with jelly and clotted crème with our tea.

Although not enthusiastic about either the setting or $60 fee I did tell my travelling buddy I was willing, but the call was hers. We decided to enjoy tea at the Point Ellice House and that was an excellent choice.

Since the Point Ellice House was on the Gorge it was a pleasant walk from our hotel. Another couple joined us. Tea was served in the old carriage house, which was built in the same spot where the burned barn had stood. We were at our table with linen tablecloth/napkins for nearly two hours. Besides finger sandwiches we also were served sweets, scones and all the tea we wanted to drink. We ate the scones in the proper manner as described in the Point Ellice brochure.

This tearoom also served as a small gift shop with some lovely things for sale. It was nice to see the absence of all the tourist junk.

Our server told us, “During the 19^th century this was an area full of lovely Victorian homes where the gentry and well to do people lived. This Italianate cottage was built in 1861, and was enlarged and landscaped between 1875-89. The O’Reillys, with four children, moved into the house in 1867. Peter O’Reilly was Irish and lived from 1828 to 1905.

“The O’Reilly family occupied the home for 106 years. Mr. O’Reilly was a government official. The family never threw anything away. They kept extensive records even including workmen who arrived to do various chores. There are over 10,000 Victorian objects in the home. The property extends several hundred feet along the Gorge.”

Mrs. O’Reilly apparently wrote a cookbook where there were three recipes for lemon curd or lemon cheesecake. Except for hot cocoa and candy or bon bons, chocolate did not exist in Victorian cooking. There was no such thing as brownies, chocolate chip cookies, or chocolate cake.

One daughter, Kathleen, was quite an accomplished artist and several of her paintings are on view in the house. She never married, as she found life at Ellice house too comfortable and happy.  She remained in the house until her death in 1945. After that the house passed to a nephew. In 1975 the Provincial Government bought the property.

After tea we toured the house. We each were given headphones, that worked wonderfully well, and a cassette recorder. The Chinese houseboy told the story of the house. Periodically he was interrupted by the English parlor maid with some tid bit of information. Occasionally an excerpt from a diary was read. It was a very creative, imaginative way to tell the story.

It was a delightful way to spend the afternoon and to end our visit to Victoria.