SPLIT, CROATIA

                                  Split is a City

            Split, with a population of 200,000, is Croatia’s largest city on the Adriatic Coast and the country’s second largest city. Founded in the 3^rd century, the picturesque ancient city lies between a high mountain range and the palm tree-lined waterfront pedestrian promenade. Strolling the waterfront or sitting in a café are popular pastimes. The ocean view includes sandy beaches, rocky cliffs and unspoiled islands. One of the sunniest spots in Europe, the   premier resort town has breath-taking views of beautiful blue Adriatic waters that contrast with high coastal mountains.

            The city is a living museum of classical and medieval architecture and archeology. Expanded industry, a shipyard, limestone quarry and a commercial-military port are all located on the north end of the city. An aqueduct built in the 3^rd century and repaired in the 19^th century is still in use supplying water for the entire city.

            Old town has two square-shaped sections; to the east is the Diocletian Palace and to the west lies the medieval town. The summer residence of Emperor Diocletian took ten years to build and was finished in 305. The UNESCO site was built as his retirement palace. In 600 AD, some 2000 people moved into the palace to establish the city of Split.

            One of the last buildings built by Romans, the palace is at the heart of Split’s history.  The fortress-like palace, with walls 590 feet by 705 feet, originally had 16 towers. One of the rectangle towers on the right is original. Small churches were built in several of the 16 wall towers and bell towers were added. Today 3000 people live and work within the palace walls. In the Middle Ages nobility and rich merchants built residences within the old palace walls. There are 200 buildings within the palace.

            Originally the palace south wall was at the water’s edge. Now reclaimed land provides  a wide street and a tree lined promenade, placing the palace several meters from the water.

            The Diocletian lived on the sea side of the palace with its 42 arched windows. Servants lived viewless on the inside. The front door was originally the back door, and when the water level was high it was only accessible by boat. The palace cellars, 305 AD, are Europe’s largest Roman underground structure.  Originally they held water, not liquor, and were built to level the lower first floor. Today it is a gallery for souvenir stands.

             Cathedral St. Domnus is located in the Peristyle, a square in the center of the palace.  Originally the octagon shaped structure was a mausoleum. After the fall of Rome, it was converted to a cathedral taking 300 years to complete.  Multi colored marble pillars highlight the baroque interior. The ornately carved Romanesque door dates to 1214. The cathedral remains in daily use. The church bell tower is 13^th century. The stone pulpit is unusual; the baroque altar is white marble. The   Golden Gate is the former main entrance. The entry vestibule to living quarters is impressive.  Emperors were believed to be gods, and called themselves Jovius, son of Jupiter, most powerful of all gods.

             Diocletian Palace was home to administrative prowess, but also was used for feeding pesky Christians, unwilling to worship him, to the lions. A gate in the palace wall led to a pillared courtyard where the emperor received homage of subjects. It descends into a maze of ancient underground rooms that apparently were used as a city dump until the 1970s. It also served as a discothèque at one time. The garbage of centuries ago has been cleaned out, but the place still smelled musty. It is the largest underground structure in Europe. Large stone vessels made from a single piece of stone once were used to store olive oil. Now many of them are used as flower planters.

            Marble paves Old Town’s streets. The black sphinx, one of 13, is the only complete one. The medieval town of Split took shape within the palace walls. The palace is the centerpiece of the old section of the city. The area is a virtual open-air museum with the city’s contemporary life bustling through it. The maze of narrow alleys is lined with fashionable boutiques, cafés and Roman artifacts. Red granite columns, from Egypt, can be seen everywhere.

            Just through the back gate stands a larger than life bronze statue of St. Gregory. It was removed from a small square where the huge statue overwhelmed it. Cut into three pieces it was moved and reconstructed. The huge statue showcases in the large courtyard. The tour of the Diocletian Palace took two and a half hours with a local docent. It is huge and considering its age and tools available at the time of its building, it just boggles the mind. It is an amazing feat and a big window into life in ancient times. It was a fascinating and informative visit.