Wednesday, April 17, 2013

LJUBLJANA, SLOVENIA


                                      A Charming Old City

            The drive from Vienna to Ljubljana was over a good road through pretty countryside back dropped by green mountains. Wild flowers were in bloom. Many maypoles were still standing in small villages. Pumpkins grow in the fertile areas, and apparently pumpkin oil is a big product. We crossed the border into Slovenia at noon. Officials came aboard to check passports. The European Union has opened up borders and relaxed restrictions. The only passport stamp we received the whole trip was on entry into the EU in Vienna. The Slovenia stamp occurred only because our guide had to collect all our passports at a stricter control point and the female official did us a favor by stamping them.
            Only 150 miles from Venice, Italy, the Slovenian capital city of 300,000 is a lazy old town clustered around a castle topped mountain.  Although a mid-sized European city and gateway to the Julian Alps, it maintains the friendliness of a small town, while possessing all the characteristics of a metropolis. Here, where cultures of the east and west meet, the old harmonizes with the new. Ljubljana, surrounded by hills, is in a fertile glacial valley.
            The city boomed when the railroad connected Vienna and Trieste. An 1895 earthquake destroyed the city and it was rebuilt in the then popular art nouveau style. Integrating historic structures with modern designs created a unique architectural style. Cafés, restaurants, and markets line the embankment of the Ljubljana   River that flows   through the city. Large market squares sprawl along the river’s south bank.
            I fell in love with Ljubljana. It is a city of young people and you can feel the excitement and vitality of the city. Ljubljana University brings many young people to the city----a city of culture, numerous theaters, museums, galleries and one of the oldest philharmonic academies in the world. Many cultural events take place in the Slovene capital. Top quality musicals, theater and fine arts performers, as well as alternative and avant-garde performers can be discovered in 14 international festivals.
            I learned that 85-88 percent of the country’s two million people are Slovene. The country is 55 percent forested. Mushroom picking and chestnut roasting are national sports. Biking and hiking are popular past times. Karst covers 28 percent of the land accounting for the many caves. Vineyards abound and wine is a popular drink. We learned local beers and wines are everywhere with each community having its own facilities. I cannot speak for the beer, which everyone said was good, but the wines, mostly white, were excellent.
            The city goes back to the 6th century. During medieval times the country’s first settlement was in the large marsh lands that cover 53 square miles just outside of the city.  The two million year old marshlands are protected.  Now hops are grown in that area. The bitterness of the hops off sets the sweetness of the malt and is what makes beer so good. The city experienced earthquakes in 1895 and 1905.
          More about this lovely city next time.

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