Trinidad (1514), in the lee of the Escambray, is maintained as a living museum, as it is pretty much as the Spanish left it. It seems as though time has stood and it was a bit surreal to feel like I was in a time warp. Cuba’s crown jewel of its colonial cities reached its peak in the mid 19th century during the sugar boom.
Ballast stones from sailing ships of days gone by pave the streets. These cobbled streets are paved with a slight V in the center. Logic says this would be for drainage, but legend says the first governor had one leg longer than the other. When he walked down the middle of the street he was level and was able to walk without a limp. The cobbled, narrow, slightly hilly streets are lined with pastel painted homes with tile roofs. Fancy wrought iron rails. decorated balconies. The entire city is a national monument, which disallows any architectural changes to buildings. Situated on a low hill, the city catches the ocean breezes, and the doors of homes reflect that with postigos, small wooden louvered windows in the center of doors to allow the breezes to flow through.
We saw many mule-drawn two wheeled carts. A couple of us walked down a side street where some construction was going on, and the mule-carts were hauling sand. Vaqueros (cowboys) rode horseback in Plaza Mayor around the white iron fence that surrounded the small park in the center of the square. We even saw a fellow walking a pig on a leash. I suspect it was going to be someone’s dinner.
The soil is very red and a terra cotta pottery business is alive and well. At the museum we learned that the roof tiles were formed and rounded on the thigh of workers.
A mild climate, fertile soil, and easy access to the Caribbean favored Trinidad’s agricultural (sugar) and commercial growth. Plaza Mayor was the heart of the original settlement. It is ringed by a cathedral (1892) and four museums, once mansions of wealthy colonialists. Holy Trinity Church is the largest in the country and houses the most valuable icons. It took 200 craftsmen three years to carve the wooden altar (1812). Seven saints decorate the altar and St. Francis is 400 years old.
By the 19th century Cienfuegos with a better harbor surpassed Trinidad, which started a slow steady decline for the city. In the 1950s Bastista declared the city a jewel and tourism started to be promoted. The town was named a national monument in 1965, and in 1988 named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Cameras were not allowed inside the Museo Romantico. The foyer was filled with plants and potted palms. The museum had a gorgeous carved cedar ceiling dating to 1770. The tall walls did not go all the way to the ceiling leaving an air space between the wall top and the arches of the rooms. The upper level of the building was added in 1804. Italian marble floors were throughout. The spectacular wainscoting in the rooms was all hand painted. The detail was unbelievable. I have never seen such a stunning wrought-iron bed! I also was intrigued with the kitchen. Baccarat crystal chandeliers and Meisen porcelain were gorgeous. It was truly a treasure of exquisite antiques.
The family had 12 children and 20 slaves, so basically 34 people lived in this gorgeous house.
We were led down a cobbled alley where we stopped in a courtyard to hear some music and enjoy another local drink, which I didn't get the name of. It was served in small clay pot/cups. We lunched at Eljigve, the oldest home in Trinidad (1614). I spied a palm I’d not seen before in the lovely courtyard of a small museum. The girl I talked to said it was a ciska palm.
Trinidad, Cuba is a fascinating quaint city which was a delight to visit.
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