DELIGHTFUL AUSTRIA

GREIN, AUSTRIA

Approaching Grein we biked over part of the old horse path where decades ago horses trod pulling barges up and down the river. That was a first.

Grein is a picturesque little village providing wonderful Kodak moments.

          Our 700-year old hotel had been in the same family since 1912 and was furnished with antiques. The hotel was small but completely modernized. Across the street from the hotel was a bike shop and I didn’t waste any time getting there to buy a sheepskin seat cover for my bike. I hoped it would provide some relief. Unbelievably this had seemed like a pretty easy 40-mile day. Maybe it was the strudel.

          The village of Grein, established in 1147, presently had a population of 3000. The town hall, built in 1563, is still in use. Over a century ago the townspeople elected to move the cemetery out of town, as they wanted a more traditional church plaza.

            At this point the Danube is narrow with many rock outcroppings. In years past it was not uncommon for ships to run aground here and of course there is a legend about a beautiful mermaid sitting on the rocks distracting the ship’s crew. (I’ve heard a similar story several times in different places, but---) By the 12^th and 13^th centuries shipping had increased so much that piloting of ships became a booming business. In addition to the rock outcroppings large swells and dangerous whirlpools added to the danger. In 1489 the piloting business was taken over by two brothers who were friends with Fredric II. Fredric gave the village permission to incorporate in 1491.In 1847 the first steamboat started a new era of shipping.

          In the 1950s the stone outcroppings in the S curve of the river were blown up to provide safer shipping. Locks and an electrical generating plant were built in 1958.

            Immediately after breakfast the next morning we took a walking field trip to the castle high on the hill; the view of the river and countryside from the top was spectacular. The castle is still occupied by the prince who owns it. In 1489, 500 volunteers who were indebted to the king spent five years building the castle. The present prince likes to bowl so he had a special building erected to house a bowling alley and entertainment room. If one did not know the history one could speculate for a long time on the purpose of such an odd shaped building.

            During WW II the city was over-run by Russians who occupied the castle. They destroyed many of the furnishings and removed even more. The castle has been only partially restored.

            In 1642 a fire destroyed 73 of the 83 homes in Grein plus the church tower. The owner of the restaurant was found responsible for the fire and had to pay all damages.

             The most recent flood, in 1991, flooded all the waterfront homes where water reached ceiling level. All had been restored. It’s a charming small Austrian village.