Tuesday, April 13, 2010

THE CURIOUS KILT

All About Kilts
I, for one, love the kilt and thoroughly enjoyed a visit to a kilt maker in Inverness, Scotland where I learned that over 3000 tartans are divided into three groups: clan tartans, army tartans, and city tartans. Today there are also tartans that can be worn by anyone. Often businesses design their own tartan. The advent of color TV made dress tartans very popular. Ancient tartans are very dark because of the lack and availability of dyes. All tartans are plaids, but not all plaids are tartans. A tartan has the same pattern of colors and strips, no matter from what direction it is viewed.

Originally tartan referred specifically to a mantle of cloth draped over the back and shoulder. Kilts can be traced back to 1471. Clans developed special dying and weaving techniques with colors and patterns. The craft of dying with various plants and bark was raised to an art form and was a source of pride to the clan. Tartans came into fashion during Queen Victoria’s time when Albert wore a kilt and made all things Scottish popular.

Originally the kilt was called a faelmor (sounds like filimore) and was simply a blanket of unwashed wool. Wrapped around the waist it formed a covering. With part of it tossed over the shoulder a pouch-purse could be formed in the front chest, and wrapped a different way it formed a knapsack in back for carrying articles. At night the faelmor substituted for a blanket.

A kilt uses eight yards of fabric and is specially measured and handmade. Kilts have 27-29 pleats in the back. After pleating, the fabric is cut away about four inches down from the top to allow for a facing and to reduce the bulk around the waist. The kilt just covers the knee. The straps and buckle are the last things attached before pressing. It takes 8-10 hours to make a kilt and 3-5 years of training before a kilt maker is left on her own.

There are strict rules for wearing a kilt; however, there are no rules for how women can wear a tartan.

The purse-like sporran is worn in the front of the kilt. The number and kind of tassels on the sporran identifies the regiment.

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