TORTUGUERO NATIONAL PARK

                                          Turtles Are The Attraction

            It was not until my third trip to Costa Rica that I got to Tortuguero National Park, located in a remote area on Costa Rica’s eastern Atlantic coast. The park, covering 47,000 acres, was established in 1970, although regulation to protect the turtles and control visitors started in 1963 when turtles were nearly extinct. Trade in turtles has gone on since 1541. Tortugas, in Spanish, means giant sea turtle. Turtles are the main attraction in the park.

Of the eight species of marine turtles, six nest in Costa Rica and four species nest in the park. The green turtle is the most common. Hawksbill turtles are also found in the park. The Loggerhead is the rarest, and the giant Leatherback is the most spectacular and largest of all the species. It can grow up to six feet and weigh 1000 pounds. 

Raffia palms line the jungle canals and lagoons that lie behind beaches. These canals are the main highway, as no vehicles or paved roads exist in the park. Boats, skiffs, dugout canoes ply the canals and transport goods and people. Such water crafts are often referred to as pangas. Many say the lush tropical jungle is similar to the Amazon.

Tortuguero is home to spider, capuchin and howler monkeys as well as the great green macaw, green iguana, toucan, three-toed sloth, and the endangered manatee. The area receives 200-inches of rain a year and is the rainiest part of the country, resulting in a healthy mosquito population. We were very lucky as far as both rain and bugs were concerned. Although we were prepared with long sleeves and long pants we had no need for them and we never did use any of the bug juice! It was VERY humid and smothering hot though.

The rain forest protects 350 species of birds, 110 specie reptiles, 57 species amphibians as well as butterflies, jaguars, anteaters, and peccaries. The lowland rain-forest is a true tropical jungle.

While in the park we took three additional boat rides for nature watching. Our guide checked in with the park rangers each time before we went exploring various canals. The palm canal (Cano Palma) totally fascinated me. Palms contain a lot of tannin, and with many dead leaves on the bottom, the water appears very black and was mirror calm. The reflections were so incredible that it was hard to determine what was real and what was reflection. When we did turn up the speed, the boat’s wake was a marked bronze color instead of white.

It was common to see monkeys playing in the trees and sometimes teasing us as we walked along the paths. Iguanas and small lizards were seen often so it was wise to watch where you stepped. Our cabins were individual, enclosed and you could see nothing but lush foliage when looking out the screened open-shuttered ‘windows’. Ceiling fans were helpful at night as there was no air conditioning.  Being a naturalist I thoroughly enjoyed our stay in the park as did the rest of my family. Rain forests are neat areas, and having stayed in several, I’ll take one every chance I get.

BATH, ENGLAND AND ITS ABBEY

                         A Lovely City Full of History

The city of Bath, England sits in a valley at the bottom edge of the Cotswold’s. This city of 100,000 exists because of water where 270,000 gallons of water bubbles up each day from the bowels of the earth. They are England’s only hot springs. The springs are 10,000 feet deep, and surface in three places with a temperature of 46 degrees centigrade.

Legend tells the story about a Celtic chief who had leprosy and was forced to leave his people for their own safety. During his travels he happened upon the hot springs. After bathing in them for some period of time he was cured and eventually returned to his people. He had a difficult time convincing his people who he really was, but when he did he moved his people to the springs which they called ‘sul’ and which they worshipped.

The Romans put Bath on the map in the first century when they drained the swamp and built a temple to the goddess Minerva.  They built a sophisticated network of  baths making full use of the mineral springs and called the area Aquae Sulis. They  occupied the area for 360  years  but in 410 suddenly abandoned the area. Over the years water again overcame the area.

In the 12^th century present day Bath was built over the unknown Roman ruins. The Roman ruins were not discovered until the 1800s. The old Roman lead lined pool is 5’ deep and still water tight! The original Roman drains are still used to drain the excess water and carry it to the River Avon.

            By the 18^th century architect, John Wood, united the present city making use of the local yellow stone.  The debonair and flamboyant Beau (Richard) Nash threw extravagant parties, and Bath was the hottest social scene in the country.

Bath Abbey

Monks established    the Bath Abbey in the 900s and it  is across the plaza from the Roman Baths ruins/museum. This gorgeous 16^th century Gothic abbey is over the site of a Norman cathedral, that was on the site of an ancient Saxon monastery. 
The Abbey measures 67 meters by 22 meters. The nave vaulting is 24 meters high and the height of the tower is an additional 49 meters. Why isn’t it a cathedral? The Abbey is a parish church; a cathedral is the principal church of a diocese, the area of a bishop’s authority. When visiting the Abbey do plan on giving yourself enough time and if at all possible do it with a docent who can relay a lot of history. Such docents are extremely knowledgeable and love to partake all sorts of neat information.      
 In 1499 Bishop Oliver King demolished the Norman cathedral to build the present abbey. This Anglican parish church houses one of the most beautiful fan vaulted ceilings I’ve ever seen. It is truly magnificent. The front façade of the abbey is intricate and interesting. A miter, olive tree, and crown are worked in the façade as a play on the present building’s founder, Bishop Oliver King.

         On my second trip to Bath I pretty much  knew my way around. I visited the Roman Baths again, and saw some things I had missed the first time. I spent a fair amount of time in the Abbey, as it is truly beautiful. Then I walked across the street and watched the waterfall on the River Avon before making it back up to the bridge.
           Bath boasts the only bridge left in England that is lined with shops. The Putney Bridge spans the River Avon and was a famous city landmark in the 18^th century. On one end of the bridge was a small sandwich shop. After walking down one side and back on the other side of the bridge, I stopped in the sandwich shop and bought a ham and cheese baguette for lunch.

IRISH TREASURES

                                              A Couple of Many

            Kerry County Museum explains 8000 years of Irish and County Kerry History.  Sounds, sights and smells of medieval Tralee are recreated in vivid detail. I could do without the musty smell. The recreated village was well done with wax manikins in working positions. There even was a fellow ready to dump his chamber pot out the window into the cobbled street. The whole exhibit was in muted lighting which added to the  realistic atmosphere. Talk about going back in time! This is one of the best realistic museums I’ve been it. We slowly wandered through the exhibits marveling at how realistic they were.

            Lovely gardens were across the street from the museum behind the 1243 Tralee Friary established by the Dominican  priest, John Fitzthomas. Known as the black friars because of  their black robes, they were noted for their scholarship and learning. In 1580 the city and abbey burned and by the end of the 17^th century little of the medieval town remained.

             Just outside Tralee in Blennerville stands the largest working windmill dating back to the 1800s. I asked if we could stop for a Kodak moment. Both our guide and van driver obliged---ah the advantage of a small group! The windmill is very big; however it now houses a museum and is no longer in use. 

            A fabulous day spent in Killarney started with a jaunting ride through Killarney National Park, Ireland’s largest and first national park. The drivers of the two wheeled horse and buggies called jaunting carts are called   jarveys, and ours was named Michael.

            Six of us crawled into the cart. Michael was most personable and kept up a running commentary as he drove us through the park. His horse was named Black Beauty. Michael said, “We all have two horses which we rotate. It is getting harder and  harder to find a horse that can cope with the traffic and noise. The pavement is hard on their hoofs so they are re-shod every three weeks.”

            Passing by the lower lake he continued, “This loch is five and a half miles long and two and a half  miles wide. The Middle or Muckross Lake is 300 feet deep, and the upper lake is more like a wide river. There are 32 islands in the lake; the one out there is called Monk Island because in times of conflict the monks from the abbey would escape there to hide. All the islands are bird sanctuaries. The fishing in the lakes is good.”

            Michael stopped the cart on the 1878 Wishing Bridge so we all could make a wish. He explained, “The hardest part of driving this rig is the down hills. I have to keep the break on so the cart won’t run over the horse. It’s hard on both the animal and the cart. The cattle you see grazing are called Kerry cattle. There are only three herds left and they all graze here in the national park. They are pure black and give black milk that is called Guinness.”  Funny, this guy!

            We stopped at the 1458 Friar’s Abbey to walk around the grounds and through the abbey that was destroyed in 1664. A huge yew tree grew in the center of the cloister. Restoration of the abbey was in progress. Although the park is in the center of a busy city it was quiet and peaceful within its boundaries. 

            Later in the day after touring Muckross House I chose to walk through the park instead of attending a sheep herding demonstration, as I’d seen many. Another gal decided that was a good idea and joined me. We had instructions on where and when to meet up with the van.  It was a nice day and the walk was really fun.

            Later still, my buddy and I decided to walk through the park to St. Mary’s Cathedral. The present church was built in 1842 over the site of the original 1027 church. The church served as a shelter for people for famine victims. The temperature inside was pleasant so we sat awhile to rest her knee and then headed off for a very late lunch. We made our way through town to the restaurant Sceal Eile (pronounced shay ellie). Seated next to an upstairs window providing a great view of the street below we enjoyed a good bowl of Irish stew. A great end to a wonderful full day!

THE FORBIDDEN CITY

                                     A Huge Complex  

To get to the Forbidden City from Tienanmen Square, across a busy street, we went down the subway stairs and crossed under the road coming up on the other side. A 35-foot-high wall and a 160-foot wide moat surround the 800 buildings, 9000-room maze of courtyards, palaces, apartments, and storehouses that cover 200 acres. We entered the Forbidden City though the South Gate, built in the 15^th century during the reign of Emperor Yongle. Restored in the 17^th   century, it has always been used as a rostrum to talk to the masses. There are five doors to the gate. The middle one is the highest and was reserved for the emperor. Royal persons used the left gate and guards used the one on the right. On each end is a small door. Each of the seven bridges spanning the stream had restricted use, and only the emperor was allowed to use the central bridge. This was the spot where Mao, in 1949, proclaimed the People’s Republic.

 The front gate (Qian Men), once guarded the ancient inner city from the outer suburban area. The Forbidden City is so called because it was off  limits for 500 years to everyone except the emperor and his court. Twenty-four Chinese emperors, Sons of Heaven, ruled China from the Dragon Throne. It is believed to be the best-preserved and largest cluster of ancient buildings in China.

            Outside the gates stood two large concrete columns with animals on top facing out. Just inside stood two similar columns but the animals on top were facing inward. The Hall of Harmony is the tallest and largest of the six main palace buildings. The 15^th century city within a city is one of world’s greatest architectural masterpieces. No building could be higher than that of the emperor.

Emperors prayed at the Temple of Heaven twice a year for good harvests. Within the Forbidden City was a Chinese vision of paradise on earth. It was home to both the Ming and Qing dynasties.

 A large bronze tortoise and crane, both representing long life, were positioned on each side of the courtyard. The colors red and yellow were restricted only for royal use.

Contained within the city was a breathtaking array of art. Marble dragons, bronze lions, and gilded gargoyles adorned a gigantic maze of palaces, pavilions, gardens and halls. Lions symbolize good luck and power. A series of arches stretched from the edges of Beijing to this imperial labyrinth, and everything in the Forbidden City complex, right down to the last courtyard, converged upon the Imperial Throne, reflecting a belief that the entire world radiated out from the royal seat of China and its emperor, the Son of Heaven.

Beijing officials call the Forbidden City the Palace Museum (Gugong) or the Imperial Museum. Emperor Yongle established the basic layout for the city between 1406-1420. At times as many as a million laborers worked on the complex. The emperors ruled from the palace, sometimes erratically, and often leaving much of the real power to court eunuchs.

Fires were frequent events, and the present buildings mostly are post 18^th century. Many large iron cauldrons, 308 actually, were placed around the courtyards containing water in case of  fire. The large ones were elevated on legs so in cold weather fires could be built under the cauldron to prevent the water from freezing. The smallest cauldron held 18 gallons. Some of the fires were accidental, but some were also set by the eunuchs so they could get rich off of the repairs.

The inner courtyard is made with 15 layers of brick. At one time flogging took place here. Each of the five bridges has a meaning and we crossed over on the Bridge of Intelligence. Each of the main halls face south, while lesser buildings flank the courtyard.

Philosophy and social items were  important. Math was not valued and that has left China behind in technology. People lived in the Imperial City and worked in the Forbidden City. The north gate was reserved for the empress. In 1664 Manchus stormed the palace burning it to the ground. Years later, Japanese forces looted the palace. In 1949 on the eve of the communist takeover many relics were removed and sent to Taiwan where they remain in a museum.

The gates were huge ‘drum’ doors with rows and rows of large brass knobs. Thresholds were high throughout the city, and the higher the threshold the higher rank of the official living in the house. In the Imperial City some of the thresholds had been removed so the last emperor could  ride his bike over them when he was a child.

On the building roof corners there were an odd  number of small animals plus an extra animal that was ridden and in the lead. The number of animals designated one’s importance. So someone with five figures would be more important than someone with three and less important than someone with seven.

There were no trees or flowers in the Forbidden City, as it was felt they might break the impression of solidarity. It also gave no hiding place for anyone who might want to hurt the emperor. However when leaving, we found a lovely peaceful garden outside the walls. We slowly strolled through the   garden, as it was a nice respite from the many buildings and overdone decorations in the busy inner city. It took us a full morning to view Tienanmen and the Forbidden City and I actually found it rather tiring  and maybe a bit depressing in spite of all its history.