HISTORIC CITY

  STE MERE EGLISE

In Ste. Mere Eglise, France we walked a couple blocks of the small city down to city hall. In France the city halls are called hotel de what-ever.  Traveling around the country each one we saw had lovely flower boxes hanging from the windows and the colorful blooms added to each building. Besides the flags flying in front, this city hall also had the number 0 marker that marked the beginning of Liberty Way. This is where the road started and mile markers are all along the way to the road’s end in Bastogne, Belgium. The unique marker has a crown of 48 stars representing the 48 states at that time. (Alaska and Hawaii were still territories) The torch emerging from the sea is modeled on the torch of the Statue of Liberty. Thousands of troops and equipment traveled this road.

            The Airborne Museum at Ste. Mere Eglise is shaped like a parachute. Ste. Mere Eglise was at the heart of the American 82^nd Airborne Division’s operations on D-day in WW II. Located just off the main square, the museum is comprised of two main buildings. Paratroopers landed in trees, gardens and in yards. There are many funny stories about individual landings. Their mission was to take and hold the city. It was the first French city to be liberated. The occupying Germans were overwhelmed by the sheer number of Allied troops.

            I stepped inside a WW II glider and was amazed at how big it was. The 512 gliders carried jeeps, supplies and men to the front. The glider didn’t look all that sturdy, but they did the job.

            Before leaving the city we visited the church where the parachute of one soldier, John Steele, got hung up on the steeple. He tried to free his ropes but dropped his knife. German soldiers shot at him so he played dead for a couple hours before being cut down, but he survived.

PANDA SANCTUARY

Lovable pandas

A giant panda sanctuary, located in their native habitat, lies about an hour outside the city of Chengdu, China, in Sichuan Province. We learned that the sanctuary has the largest number of pandas anywhere in the world, and is trying to restore panda populations.     The Research Base started operations in 1990 and opened to the public in 1995. Hunting, habitat encroachment, disappearing bamboo habitat, solitary lifestyles, very few fertile days, and natural disasters  all contributed to the panda becoming endangered in 1949. There are only 1000 pandas living in the wild. The panda’s only predator is man and insects that sting and inflict pain.

A docent told us, “Panda means bamboo eater. Presently 40 pandas reside here. A breeding area will eventually allow   the pandas to roam and hopefully procreate. The present area covers 36 hectares, and the projected breeding area will reach 230 hectares. The pandas feed in the morning between 8-10:00 AM, so that is the best time to visit. Otherwise their predominant pastime is sleeping. Pandas are by nature solitary animals and are reluctant to mate. Today pandas are rare in the wild where their life span averages 15 years compared to 30 years in captivity. In captivity artificial insemination is most often used in the effort to increase the panda population, and births in captivity are increasing. A female panda is fertile only 2-3 days a year!”

Work and research on test tube embryos has taken place in recent years. Noise outside the maternity wards of the nature reserves is kept to a minimum as noise apparently increases the frequency of miscarriage. Speaking is even kept to a whisper.

The docent continued, “Pandas mate at 4-5 years. Mama carries her baby 4-6 months. In the wild birthing takes place in caves, so in the research centers cave-like areas have been carved out of large tree stumps. A hairless, blind, baby panda, about the size of a rat, weighs only three ounces at birth. If the baby survives the first few days it has a good chance of maturing. Female pandas often reject their babies and in the wild is the biggest cause of infant mortality.  In captivity when mom rejects her offspring there are doctor/researchers to hand feed and care for the baby, resulting in a high survival rate. When the female does become a mom, usually after her second birth, she is a gentle attentive mother constantly cuddling and licking her infant.  Weaned at 7 months the babies are introduced to the bamboo forests, then slowly into the wild. In the sanctuary the pandas are fed bread, milk powder and apples in addition to bamboo. At one time pandas ate meat, but as the climate changed they adapted.

“At ten days old the extra digit on the front paws is evident. This extra digit allows the animal to grasp and manage its bamboo diet. By six weeks the baby can see and has accumulated fur the coloring of the panda. While nursing,, mothers can become aggressive. In spite of the panda's cuddly appearance, it has long sharp claws and strong teeth. Because an all bamboo diet is not the most nourishing, a panda in the wild spends 16 hours a day feeding, eating up to 40 pounds of bamboo a day, to obtain adequate nourishment. It is a very adaptable animal.”

Although quite near sighted the panda has an acute sense of smell and hearing. Pandas do not hibernate because the bamboo diet does not provide enough fuel for hibernation.

The sanctuary not  only is large but also beautiful. It is well laid out with paved walkways. We saw pandas at all ages. They were eating and the babies just hammed it up for our cameras. Moats kept them safe and helped remove the human urge to pet the darling creatures. It was fun to watch pandas climb a tree. They hug the tree and inch up caterpillar-style a bit at a time. They look like a big furry ball hugging a tree. They come down the same way.

We spent a lot of time here, and did a lot of walking within the sanctuary. It was a delightful memorable morning.

The museum exhibits had English captions, which was a welcome bonus. The gift shop sold good quality merchandise.

ADVENTURE OVER A RIVER

A SWINGING BRIDGE

My first visit to Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada was a cruise stop. I saw just enough to whet my appetite to see more of this marvelous city. However, on that first trip many years ago I did walk across the Capilano Bridge.

On my week-long visit with Jan I had a couple of things I wanted to make sure she saw and the swinging bridge was one of them. Like me, she is pretty fearless, so I knew there would be no problem in getting her to walk across the bridge suspended over the river 230 feet below!

The bridge is located in the Pacific Northwest Temperate Rainforest which extends from northern California to southern Alaska. The Capilano area receives 78-97 inches of rain a year! The Western Red Cedar here grows up to 200 feet tall.

The 450-foot long foot-bridge over the Capilano River is the longest suspension bridge in the world. A Scotsman by the name of George Grant Mackey, a civil engineer, was so impressed with the beauty of the area that he built a cabin for himself and his wife. Then in 1889 with the help of local natives and a team of horses he pulled taut the first cedar plank and hemp rope bridge over the gorge.

The bridge became such an attraction that in 1903 a more secure wire bridge was built. In 1914 that bridge was replaced with another wire bridge with both cable ends firmly encased in concrete. The fourth and present bridge was built in 1956. There are 13 tons of concrete anchoring each end. During a 1962 hurricane eight large trees fell on the bridge, but remarkably resulted in no damage to the bridge!

On my first trip the wind was blowing pretty hard and blew a couple of hats off heads carrying them into the ravine below. This time the winds were a lot calmer, but the bridge still swayed pretty well with several people crossing at the same time. On this trip we took the time to enjoy the wonderful walking paths through the forest on the other side of the gorge. There are several creative colorful information signs stating fun information along the way. Several benches are located in picturesque spots for one to sit and enjoy the peace and sounds of nature.

Capilano is too far to walk from downtown, but the local bus took us right there and the friendly driver told us what his return times were so we could   either go farther up to Grouse Mountain or to return to town.

AN UNUSUAL SIGHT

A Sunken Church

            One noontime while cruising Russian waterways the loud speaker alerted us to grab out cameras and get on deck. It was a surprise to suddenly see a lovely church tower  standing in the middle of the river! What a photo op!

            As we passed over what once was Kalyazin’s market square, we learned that, “The city of Kalyazin was flooded when the Uglich hydroelectric plant was built in the 1940s. The city originally sprung up around a 15^th century monastery. By the 16^th century the monastery was one of the richest in Russia. The flooded belfry was part of St. Nicholas Cathedral, built in 1800.  At 210 feet high, it was considered one of the finest structures along the Volga. 

“Ivan the Terrible visited and donated rare manuscripts to the monastery and in the 20^th century Stalin dynamited the monastery to ruins.”

The present town of Kalyazin, with a population of about 12,000, lies around the mouth of the Zhabnya River.

By late afternoon we docked in the charming city of Uglich. More about the city another time but first about an outstanding evening we had visiting a Russian family.

An old van traveled over rather rough roads taking four of us to a housing development of Stalin-era concrete apartment buildings. Ludmilla, our hostess, rode with us. A schoolteacher, she spoke some English and was delighted to be hosting a dinner for us. We walked up two flights of stairs to her small three-room apartment. Her daughters Natasha and Nadia (25 and 27) plus her 79 year old mom, Maria, were waiting for us.

This family made us feel at home. Conversation flowed all evening as the girls spoke good English. Both the mom and grandmother were widowed. It was interesting to hear about their life. I can’t remember what we ate for dinner, but I do remember it was all good. Grandma had done a great job making the outstanding vodka, and one of the daughters had made the delicious apricot sweet buns for dessert.

It was a delightful evening with very gracious people. As we left to return to the boat the girls gave each of us a bookmark they had made using dried flowers. What a lovely gesture and wonderful end to a memorable evening!

AN OLD CITY GATE

 Ancient Gate

            When visiting old cities in Europe it is not uncommon to see and pass through ancient city gates as many have been preserved. Many times the old gates lead one into pedestrian malls/areas.

            The old city gate in Kiev, Ukraine was built 1017-24 by Prince Yaroslavl to underline his country’s power. We spent some time here as our local guide told us, “Under Yaroslavl’s rule the city increased tenfold.  Nomadic tribes never could penetrate the main gate to the city. During the 16^th and 17^th centuries the gate deteriorated and in the 18^th century it was covered with earth. In 1832 archeologists discovered the ruins and a portion of the gate was restored and protected behind an iron fence.”

At one end of the small park surrounding the gate stands a bronze statue of a little cat.  His ears and tail are shiny from the many rubbings they have received---a sign of good luck. Years ago the little cat smelled smoke and scratched the security people to warn its owners of a fire. The cat acted in time for everyone to make it to safety. But in all the confusion the little cat was forgotten and died of smoke inhalation. A hero cat!

NORWAY’S VIKING MUSEUM

                   VIKING MUSEUM

In Oslo, we visited the Viking Museum which is located on the Bygdey (sounds like big day) Peninsula. It is part of the Museum of Cultural History of the University of Oslo. Three 9^th century ships  are surrounded by artifacts from days of plunder. The Tune Ship was found and excavated in 1867, Gokstad Ship was excavated in the summer of 1880, and the Oseberg Ship was found and excavated in1904.

Made of oak, the ships were buried in blue clay which preserved them well. The boats were used as tombs for the nobility. Things needed for their journey to the ‘other world’ including jewelry, furniture, and food were buried with the bodies, as well as unique treasures such as wagons, horses and especially textiles which are seldom preserved from the Viking era. The three ships, found in the Oslo fjord, are the best preserved Viking ships known.

The ships were stored in various locations, and in 1913 Professor Gabriel Gustafson, who had led the excavation of the Oseberg Ship, proposed the building of a Viking Ship Museum at Bygdøy. The artifacts and archeological finds are also displayed in the museum. The museum is not large, but is well done and the contents are awesome.

A CHARMING ISLAND

TABOGA

One day in Panama around noon the ship arrived at the island of Taboga.  After lunch we went ashore, but because there was no beach, we unloaded the skiffs at a floating dock. Let me explain: although I refer to a ship, when a vessel carries only 100 passengers or less, in my mind it is a boat; thus was the case on this Panama trip.

In the morning we had learned that in 1523 Taboga was an Inca compound. Taboga is only twelve miles from Panama City and on that clear day we easily saw the city skyline in the distance.

Taboga has two roads. The high road  leads to the oldest church  on the Pacific coast. The low road leads to the only hotel where one can sit on the veranda and enjoy a cold drink while enjoying a spectacular view of the ocean.  Each road was little wider than a sidewalk.One never has to worry about a traffic jam on the island as there are only a couple of small open trucks which are used to transport goods from the floating dock to wherever.

The island is hilly. Most of the houses are painted  soft pastel colors and nearly all have a view of the ocean.  About 700 people live on the island. We talked to a local American artist who was enraptured with her island paradise and its lifestyle. She felt it was a perfect place to raise her young daughter. She told us, “Gauguin swam and painted here. In 1995 a memorial plaque was placed in front of the ruins of his home. You can see it just down the road, there.”

Taboga is known as the Isle of Flowers. They were plentiful and beautiful---everywhere. The island  has become a middle class resort area reached only by ferry where people can enjoy peace and quiet at a slowed-down pace  removed from the city.

Kelly and I found a lovely little park near the hotel where we sat for quite a spell just relaxing and enjoying the view. After awhile she told me, “I read that JFK was stationed here during WW II.”

This peaceful day was our last on the Pacific side of the canal as the next day we were booked for transit  through the canal.

ANCIENT DWELLINGS

RING FORTS AND BEEHIVE HUTS

One advantage of traveling alone or in a small group is that you can detour off the beaten track, drive over narrow roads and  get to places tour buses cannot. There is no putting up with, “We’ll be here 10 minutes,” or “It’s time to go now.”

One day in Ireland we detoured off onto mountain roads. After traveling awhile on a narrow dirt road we came to Cahergal stone fort. This 1000 year old ring fort was in excellent condition. These forts are also referred to as fairy forts, and there are some 40,000 of them in Ireland. Most of them are overgrown, but 200 have been excavated and now are designated national monuments. Today it is illegal to destroy them.

People lived in the round stone walled forts and grazed cattle outside during the day. At night the cattle were brought inside. The forts were common in the 5-6^th centuries but go back as far as the Celts. Many people believed fairies lived in the forts.

On another day we were on a narrow two-lane paved road that passed right by some beehive huts. Of course we stopped to visit. The huts were made of stone in the shape of a beehive and also date back to the 5-6^th centuries. They were in remarkably good condition and amazingly large inside.

Sometimes life is amazing and it’s awesome to see and learn about such ancient things.

9-11 MEMORIAL

RINGFINNAN

On a gorgeous sunny day while in Ireland we decided to hike into town after our visit to a historic site. The smooth path was well kept and generally down hill into a small fishing village. We found the designated pub for lunch. I noted that cod cakes were on the dinner menu, but it was lunch time.

I said to the waiter, “I grew up on cod cakes and it’s been years since I’ve enjoyed one. If it’s possible to have them at noon that would be my first choice, if not I’ll have your fish and fries.”

I was delighted when he served me the cod cakes. How nice was that!

As we loaded the van after lunch our guide told us, “I was talking to another guide during lunch and she told me about a place called Ringfinnan. I’ve never been there but I think we can find it if you want to have a go at it.”

We all agreed, “Let’s go.”

It seems that an Irish nurse was about to retire after working for years in a New York City hospital emergency room. She was working on 9/11 and knew many police and firemen. She did retire and returned to Ireland to assume some property there which her recently deceased father had left her.

The modest home sat on a small amount of acreage on a hillside overlooking a valley below. The wrought iron gate to the property was wide open. We were in for a treat. To the side of the home, at her own expense, this nurse had planted a tree for every fireman and policeman killed on 9/11. Each tree was marked with a name and his precinct or ladder number. The trees were thriving and were of several varieties. We strolled quietly among the trees that one day will be a lovely memorial park.

AIRPORT ENVCOUNTER

    A  HUGE  EMBARRASSMENT

            On my first trip to Europe years ago, long before I was smart enough to travel light, I did a fair amount of shopping. The night before we were coming home I’d carefully repacked putting all my breakables into my carry-on duffel bag along with all my dirty laundry.

            At that time I did not know leaded glass showed up as a blob in the scanner. We were leaving through London’s Heathrow Airport . Since I’d checked my major bag, I expected no problem getting through the scanner.

            HOWEVER. A very sweet middle aged man asked if the duffel was mine. When I confirmed it was he asked permission to check its contents. Without thinking I said, “Sure.” Like there could be any other response but an affirmative one.

            As he unzipped the bag I was horrified to  remember the bag’s contents.

As he pulled out one piece of clothing after another I sheepishly told him, “I’m so sorry. All my dirty laundry is in there. I’m so sorry.”

            This was in the days before gloves when I probably would have picked stuff up by the corner with two fingers and made a face each time. He was most pleasant—and professional—saying it was no problem.

            When he found the crystal bowls I’d bought for my sister he remarked, “Ah, here it is.” Then he explained to me how the lead shows as a blob, and there is no way to know what it is. Not that I looked like a bomber, but they needed to be careful.

            I’ve never forgotten that embarrassing experience, but it has not stopped me from buying something if I want it. Now if I’m stopped I just ask what they’re looking for and if I knowingly have such items I’ll give directions as to where in the carry-on it is located and what it is. This speeds things along and I’m shortly on my way.

ANIMAL TALK

A DELIGHTFUL SERENADE

Biking through  France's Bordeaux countryside was my third European bike trip.The trip started with three days biking on   narrow paved roads through a huge  pine forest.  We were frequently serenaded by frogs croaking in the drainage ditches along the side of the road. Cuckoos perched high up in the tree tops joined the serenade on many occasions. Otherwise there was little to disturb our quiet and solitude of those peaceful days.

            Sand often covered part of the road and bike paths. If one wandered off the pavement the sand bogged you down. A small mesquite-like low shrub grew along the edge of some of the paths and their nasty little thorns were the cause of most of our flat tires. At times the shadows of the sun filtering through the trees made it hard to see any dips or bumps ahead.

            It was nice to have sunshine and not rain. This part of the trip was mostly over flat terrain. But after three days it was good to add a bit of variety and challenge to the landscape. However, the frog and cuckoo serenades were a delight and are a fond memory.

ONE FAMOUS HOTDOG

A Good Dog as Well

         Many cities claim to have the hotdog. I love hotdogs and have indulged in a few in various places but never have stood in a long line to get one ----until Reykjavik, Iceland. Several of us had read in tour books about the lamb based pylsa. Billed one of the world’s great hotdogs, the book said it cost about three dollars. As far as directions it only stated the stand was on the waterfront and one could find it easily by the queue outside.

       After a day of touring and sightseeing we asked our guide-driver about the city's famous hot dog. He took us to the waterfront to the well known hot dog stand of Baejarin Beztu. The family business has operated from a small stand in the same location since 1935. There is no seating inside as the stand is no more than a kiosk. The service was quick and efficient. We sat at a picnic table as we all indulged. It was good dog! Every time we were on the waterfront we noted the queue at the stand.

The site of the Reagan-Gorbachev Reykjavik summit in 1986 is on a lot by itself near the highway where security could be easily achieved. The white building was built by the French consulate who occupied it for two years. The French sold it to the British who never occupied it because supposedly the building is haunted. Now the city owns the building and uses it for receptions.