REYKJAVIK SITES

                                              Lots to See

The church

 The famed Hallgrimskirkja Church  Completed in 1986, the church is designed to look like a mountain of lava and is the city’s most unusual structure. Named for a poet, its 246-foot tower affords a panoramic view of the city. Outside the church is a statue of Leif Eriksson presented by the US in 1930.  Many think the Lutheran church interior is stark, but I rather think it is elegant in its simplicity. The all white interior makes it very light inside. The plaza surrounding the church is paved with 9-inch charcoal and grey tiles that are laid to form several crosses in the design. The parish built the church taking 40 years to complete. Architect Samulson designed the church plus many other buildings in the city. In 1920 he was the first to graduate from architectural school. The church is the tallest building in the city, but I understand an office building is in the process of being built that will be slightly higher.

      The ten-story Perlan, Pearl Building, 1990, is where geothermically heated water and power is supplied to the city.  The building sits on six huge storage tanks. On the fourth deck of the building is an observation platform that offers wonderful views of the city. A revolving restaurant is on the top floor and a café below that.

       Old town is fascinating with much of the city’s past as well as where green parks and museums are located. The city was the site of the Reagan-Gorbachev summit in 1996.     Government offices are housed in a white building that was originally the 18th century jail. It is one of the oldest buildings in the city. A statue of the first prime minister in 1904 is on the right of the building and a statue on the left is of Christian IX. However, the oldest house in town, dating back to 1752, was Sheriff Magnusson’s weaving shed. Destroyed by fire in 1764, it was immediately rebuilt on the same site and now houses a pub.

      The City Hall, Radhus, was controversial when it was built. Located on the north end of the lake, its front pillars and part of the building are actually in the lake. It is an unusual building. The lake, Tjornin, is in the city center and is more of a pond than a lake.

      Reykjavik is relatively small and very walkable. There are sights outside the city and we took the time to travel to see the magnificent Gulfass, golden waterfall. The picturesque two-tier waterfall often showcases a rainbow shining through the mist and spray. The wind was blowing and we got a pretty good shower of spray. At one time a hydroelectric plant was proposed, but there was such a citizen uproar that the government bought the land to preserve the waterfall. West of Gulfass is the Strokkur Geyser, “the churn”, which spouts a 60-100 foot jet about once every five minutes. The geyser performed for us a couple of times as we walked by.

      The drive around the Golden Circle was a lovely ride into the countryside on a beautiful sunny day. The beautiful historic site of Thingvellir lies 30 miles from Reykjavik. It is the site of the world’s  oldest existing parliament. Starting in 930 AD the parliament met annually to enact laws and govern the island. One law in 1000 AD introduced Christianity.  The lake in the area, 84 meters long and 114 meters deep, is the largest in the country. Shalholt was the historic site of Bishops for 740 years. An early school dates to 1056.

 

A Friendly Greeting

     Since 1902 natural thermal heat from springs in the center of town has heated greenhouses at Hveragerdi, Greenhouse Village. Artificial light and hot water prolongs the growing season for flowers and produce. A thin layer of soil covers boiling water underneath. Many residents make regular treks here for fresh produce long after the normal growing season is over. It was an interesting visit to a unique facility. The southern low plateau is an agricultural area.

Visit posts 4-6-11 Reykjavik, Botanical Garden9-4-11, Blue Lagoon7-17-10, Famous hot dog12-31-10

ICELAND

                                        An Interesting Country

       Iceland, an island of almost 40,000 square miles and about the size of Ohio is a land of massive glaciers and mountains, rumbling volcanoes, lava fields, bubbling mud holes, geysers, powerful waterfalls, desolate highlands, fertile river valleys, and abundant bird life, but only 300,000 people. It is a geology, biology and history class without a textbook. Glaciers and snowfields cover only 13% of the land mass and only 7% of the land is fertile. Iceland's highest peak, Hvannadalshnukur, towers 6,500 feet. The coastline is dotted with more than one hundred fjords, and green, fertile valleys extend from them. Iceland also has more than 10,000 waterfalls and countless hot springs. 

One of many waterfalls

      Iceland is a hot spot of geothermal activity. Thirty post-glacial volcanoes have erupted in the past two centuries, and natural hot water supplies much of the population with cheap, pollution-free heating. Rivers are harnessed to provide inexpensive hydroelectric power. The Gulf Stream moderates south and west coast temperatures, but rain is common when warm and cold weather systems meet.

      Fishing is the nation's greatest resource. About 66% of the workforce is employed in the service industry. Icelanders enjoy one of the highest standards of living in the world. Icelanders still speak the language of the Vikings (Old Norse).

      Irish monks first arrived in Iceland in 700 AD, but regarded it as a hermitage. Iceland was not settled until Norwegians arrived in 874-930 when political strife on the Scandinavian mainland forced many to head westward. The people are quite Scandinavian, their mainly Norwegian Viking ancestors brought along some Irish slaves over 1100 years ago who quickly blended into the population, and many Icelanders actually celebrate St. Patrick’s Day!  There are no Eskimos in Iceland.

      In 1281, after 200 years of peace, violent feuds and raids by private armies led to the end of control by Norway. In 1397 a union of Norway, Sweden and Denmark brought Iceland under Danish rule. Disputes between church and state in 1550 resulted in the Danes seizing church property and imposing Lutheranism on the population.

      In the 16^th century natural disasters of volcanic eruptions, four severe winters and crop failures resulted in 9000 people dying from starvation. In the 1800s nationalism grew, and free trade returned in 1855.

      The country has no army. During WWII concern about Germany led the British to protect Iceland. In 1941 the United States replaced the British. In 1874 a constitution was drafted, and the Republic of Iceland finally became a reality in 1944.

      Iceland is home to ten million Atlantic Puffins, and is the largest breeding ground for the beloved bird, a graceful swimmer and diver. The only native animal in Iceland is the wolf. There are no frogs nor turtles. Now mice, rabbit, mink introduced in 1931, and horses are included. The horse is small, strong, resilient and was used for farm work and transport. The 70-80,000 horses are docile and easy to handle. The only native trees are the birch and willow.  Glacial rivers are milky.  Sagas are Viking stories from the 12-13^th centuries that are hand written.

      My visit was in July and it was warm enough for all of us to wear shorts the entire time. It was a most interesting visit to a pedestrian friendly walkable city and an intriguing environment..

WINNIPEG NEARBY SITES

                                        Two Interesting Sites
        Oak Hammock Marsh Interpretive Center is located about 40 miles outside of Winnipeg. Thirty-six square kilometers, of the Marsh’s 9000 acres, are under wildlife management.
  Our docent informed us, “Originally St. Andrews Bog covered 450 square kilometers, but by 1960 the bog was nearly dry. In the 70s and 80s the Federal and Provincial governments, along with Ducks Unlimited, reclaimed the bog, and changed its name to Oak Hammock.”

Once there was a hamlet between two oak groves where people often hung hammocks between the trees, hence the name.

 The Interpretative Center opened in 1993. At the time of my visit there were 200,000 water fowl in residence. By the end of October they will have all flown south.  This center is one of the finest I’ve ever visited.

The center entertains 40,000 school children each year in a four month time-frame of April-May and September-October. The hands on activities were inviting. A TV monitor, attached to a remote camera in the marsh, provided an extensive view, way beyond that of the naked eye.     Computers had neat information for one to access. Metal rubbings, various puzzles, lovely wildlife displays, fish tanks containing marsh fish, and a water tank with sand were among the many offerings. A fair size theater was available for presentations.

 Outside, it was windy and chilly. The marsh contains marsh, meadows, tall grass prairies, lure crops, and aspen and oak bluffs. There are 25 kilometers of hiking trails and dyke walkways in the park. Since 280 species of birds migrate through the area, the marsh is one of the best bird viewing spots in North America. Also living in the marsh are 25,000 muskrats as well as many insects, reptiles, amphibians, and mammals like rabbits, deer, and beaver.

It was a very interesting and informative morning.

 For a late lunch, we arrived at Lower Fort Garry, where we were served a delicious Irish stew and bannock, an Indian bread. Lunch ended with apple crumble topped with ice cream. A perfect lunch on a rather chilly day.

Lower Fort Garry Historical Site was closed for the season on the day of our visit, but  they opened the site just for us, and it was wonderful to have the place all to ourselves with our very own docent.

During a tour of the site, the docent explained, “Lower Fort Garry, now a historic site, is the oldest stone fort in the province. The Big House was built in 1832 for Governor George Simpson, then president of the Hudson Bay Company. The entire fort is built of limestone.”

In 1670 King Charles signed a proclamation giving exclusive trading rights of a huge territory to the Hudson Bay Company.  The North West Trading Company gave the Hudson Bay Trading Company competition, and in 1821, they joined forces. In 1826, a flood destroyed Fort Garry. Lower Fort Garry was built twenty miles south of Winnipeg on the Red River in 1830. It was the headquarters for the Hudson Bay Company from 1831-37. Hunters complained about the location, so later on, Fort Garry was rebuilt in Winnipeg.

Fort Garry was rebuilt with wooden buildings that were later torn down. However, that was some time ago as the Fort Garry Hotel, on part of the original Fort property, is a lovely old Victorian structure.

Fort Garry was the home of the York boat, the boat that won the West. It was a heavier and larger boat than the canoe, and required 6-9 rowers. The boat was too heavy to be ported across land, so it was dragged. The river system opened up the Prairie Provinces to settlement. The steam boat eventually replaced the York boat.           

WINNIPEG, CANADA

                                     Provincial Capitol 

A population of 650,000 makes Winnipeg Canada’s seventh largest city. It is the Provincial capital of Manitoba.  In spite of being geographically isolated, Winnipeg is a center  of commerce and culture which includes a symphony, opera, ballet, theater, and local native artists. Buffalo hunting plains Indians as well as French and English settlers,  the first inhabitants.

            We learned the city has seen steady growth since the boon days, and has a diverse economy which includes manufacturing, banking, transportation, and agriculture.  Today, distinct ethnic areas are found in the city including Ukrainian, Jewish, Italian, Polish, Chinese, Mennonite, Hungarian, Portuguese, French, and English.

            In 1738 the fur trading company, NorthWest Company, established a trading post at the juncture of the Red and Assiniboini Rivers. In 1812, Lord Selkirle, a Scot, brought an agricultural settlement to the area. The city incorporated in 1873, and in 1886 the Canadian Pacific Railroad followed the European immigrants.  Winnipeg, the principal city in western Canada, is a railroad hub for livestock and grain.

Provincial Legislative

The Provincial Legislative building, built in 1920, is made of Tyndall stone, a type of local limestone. The stone is heavily fossilized and fossils can be seen everywhere giving the stone an unusual texture. A statue of Queen Victoria is in front of the legislative building.

 A huge bronze buffalo stands on each side of the grand staircase in the foyer of the building. The bison or buffalo, stands for strength and endurance and is the symbol of Manitoba. It is also on the Provincial flag.

       Golden Boy sits on top of the building’s dome. A French sculptor put a sheaf of wheat, representing agriculture, in one hand of Golden Boy, and a light, representing economic development of the future, in the hand raised above his head. The 5-ton 13 ½ feet tall statue is sheathed in gold,

The area that is now Winnipeg was under  a body of water known as Lake Argosy 10,000 years ago.

Winnipeg is the home to the city government, headed by a mayor, a rural municipal government, and the Lt. Governor, who is appointed for a five year term, and has the responsibility of handling all royal arrangements and protocol whenever any member of England’s royal family visits. He lives in a house, built in 1883, located just behind the legislative building.

Winnipeg is very flat and the name means meeting of muddy waters. The Assiniboini River runs into the Red River. The east side of the river was settled by the French, the west side by the English.  Today there still remains two large, distinct areas. In the French Quarter, the signs are  in French first, English second. One half of Manitoba’s population lives in Winnipeg.

Our guide said, “Alberta, Manitoba, and Saskatchewan are Canada’s three Prairie Provinces. Manitoba, also known as the keystone province, is the easternmost province, and is nearly in the geographic center of the country. Manitoba is derived from an Indian word meaning Great Spirit. Manitoba was the fifth province to join the union and did so in 1870.

“The province is divided into three sections, north to south.  In the north is the sub arctic, then the Canadian shield or boreal forest, and in the south are the low lands or grasslands.”

     In 1997 the Red River flooded becoming several miles wide. Today, it is a few hundred feet across the river. Lake Winnipeg and Lake Manitoba, two large lakes, are north of Winnipeg. Interlake, the area between the lakes, has a large Icelandic settlement. Winnipeg is home to both the University of Winnipeg and the University of Manitoba

The Museum of Man and Nature is one of the best museums I’ve ever visited. It was nice of them to open up just for us, since they are closed on Mondays. Providing us with a docent, to escort us through the museum, with an interesting and running commentary, was certainly a real plus. It would have been a shame to have missed this fantastic venue. Obviously our tour company knew the right people and for us provided a real bonus to the trip to this cold country.

We moved from the pre-Cambrian area, on to, and through that of modern man in the urban gallery. We stopped to construct an Indian teepee, which was a fun hands-on exercise. The docent even unlocked the gate for us to board the replica of the Nonsuch,

She  told us, “The Nonsuch was a 50 foot ketch that sailed into  Hudson Bay in 1668. She returned to England with a cargo of furs. (the beginning of the Hudson Bay Company) This full size replica was built in England, and sailed to  Hudson Bay for our tricentenary in 1970.”

 “Buffalo hunts took place only twice a year, in spring and fall. The indigenous people would build a stone chute, ending at a cliff. Then, they would chase the animals into the area. After falling off the cliff, the animals were finished off with an arrow. One well know place is called Head Smashed In Bluff!” I’d read about this before and seen a couple of movie versions of the exercise. I know the indigenous people had to eat and that this was a very effective way to harvest meat, but it seems so cruel. I’m just glad it was only done twice a year.