ENGLISH NATIONAL PARKS

                                     Grasmere and the Parks
     England’s National Park history is much shorter than ours, and there are marked differences of how its parks are run compared to the U.S. National Park System.   The National Park and Access to Countryside Act of 1949 was the beginning of England’s eleven National Parks. The major portion of funding comes from the central government with the remainder of the monies coming from local rates, car parks, and fees for guided walks etc.

    The main functions of the National Parks are to preserve and enhance the area’s natural beauty, to promote enjoyment of the area, and to look after the needs of the local people. England’s National Parks are all living landscapes as people live and work in the parks. The government does not own the parks. England’s parks are privately owned and landowners vary from small homes and farms to major landowners who control thousands of acres. Many of the major landowners can trace their history back many

generations. The local population has need for employment, housing, health, education etc. which need to be considered by both the park authorities and visitors. Before the establishment of the National Parks it was up to the voluntary sector to protect areas of outstanding beauty. The National Trust, established in 1895, is still active and going strong owning property throughout England and Wales. In National Parks the Trust works in fairly close cooperation with the Park Authority. However being a charity it is dependent on member subscriptions, entry fees to properties and rents from numerous farms and cottages.

   The Lake District’s 880 square miles makes it England’s largest National Park and the second so designated,  1951; the first park was the Peak District.  The 880 square miles makes a rough circle 35 miles in diameter and 40,000 people live within the park boundaries. William Wordsworth and Beatrix Potter as well as other poets and authors popularized the area in the mid 18^th century.

     Today there are many pressures on the National Parks. One of the most urgent and biggest problems is the impact of tourism. The area needs tourist income, but how to control the impact of many people using and enjoying the landscape. Then there is the need for tourist facilities, and control of building and type of structures also impact the growth. The need of the residents is always ever present. Modern farming methods and commercial forestry are also needs. Erosion is a constant problem, often caused by people straying off paths destroying vegetation.

      Repair of paths is a constant manpower as well as a  financial problem.     Leveling walkways, providing disabled access, identifying drainage problems, replanting and protecting such from sheep and deer are just some of the problems facing the area. It might be said that the area has been loved to death. Trying to find a quiet balance is a challenge.

     I’ve hiked and enjoyed several of the country’s parks and have always been respectful of them as they are a treasure.

       England’s Lake District is picturesque with many low mountains, abundant trees and flora. Sheep are seen everywhere and we were to learn a lot about them as well as transit many of their pastures. England has about twenty breeds of sheep, and the most common are the Herdwick, Blackface, and Swaledale.

     Romans came here 2000 years ago and the Vikings 1000 years ago. The old Roman road is 2480-feet high and one can still walk the path the Romans used to pull carts. Fell is a Viking word meaning mountain.

Good hiking boots needed

     In Grasmere we stayed in a sprawling Edwardian hotel located on a small lake. Grasmere is a city as well as a lake and this is where it can be confusing to a stranger. Mere, water, tarn all designate a lake so to say Lake Grasmere is redundant. Tarn is from a Viking word meaning tear. There are 247 bodies of water ranging from small to fairly large in the Lake District.

     Buildings and homes in the area are of either native blue or green slate with slate roofs. Building codes are strict. It is illegal to import stone or to use any non native stone. Historic preservation dictates that if a building is torn down it must be replaced the same size and in the same spot.                       Windermere is a large lake, 10 ½ X 1 mile, and 276 feet deep. It’s fast flowing water changes the surface water every three days. Three steamboats sail on the lake. There are only three lakes in the district that allow motors, two have 10 mph speed limits and Windermere is the only lake with unlimited motor rules. However, because of erosion and pollution a study of that was underway.

ST MICHAEL'S MOUNT

                                 Center Piece in the Bay

One of Cornwall’s most famous natural landmarks is St. Michael’s Mount. It sits 200’ above the bay on the highest point of the granite and slate island rising out of the water. Built over the site of a Benedictine chapel, it has been a church, fortress, and private residence.  It was one huffing hike over a very rough cobblestone path to the top, but the views were spectacular, the castle was lovely, and it certainly was worth the climb.

I was the first to make it to the top, passing a couple who had touted all trip what terrific hikers they were. I was surprised to see them stop every few steps to get their breath. I have found that the people who do the most talking are often full of hot air.

      One can walk the causeway, built in 1425, only at very low tide, otherwise it’s a pound fare for the ‘ferry’ ride. The 12 passenger ferry was little more than an open row boat with an outboard motor. Eight boats run continuously.  At the top of one of the pair of stairs at the island loading piers is a gold footprint marked VC in commemoration of Queen Victoria’s visit in 1846. I wonder if she made the climb to the top?

       The castle was a defense in 1585 when the Spanish tried to invade, and for any significant disturbance since. St. Michael’s Mount was built by the same French monks who created Normandy’s Mont St. Michel.

      The organ in the present chapel is circa 1791.  The castle houses period furniture and old maps. Lovely wooden floors are throughout, and the castle is bright inside because of its rather large windows, unusual for its day.

Close up of castle

Perched atop the rock outcropping

      After viewing the castle and having interesting conversations with a couple of the docents I made my way back to the bottom. Fortunately it did not rain, because if it had that cobblestone walkway would have been very slippery. I spent a fair amount of time walking through the large gardens surrounding the base of the castle. The gardens contained many unusual plants.

     A few medieval and Victorian buildings, as well as a small gift shop, are at the base of the island. 

     In the middle of the bay it was windy and cool. Otherwise it was a clear sunny day and it was a neat adventure.

BIRD’S EYE VIEW OF CORNWALL,ENGLAND

                      Picturesque Countryside
     Cornwall is a world of its own with spectacular landscapes and stunning rugged coastline. Hedgerows climb the hills defining and dividing the rolling green pastures. No place is Cornwall is more than 20 miles from the coast and the ocean.                 

    We often passed under natural green arches over the roads where the trees and vines on each side had grown across the road and entangled with those on the opposite side. Most roads in Cornwall are narrow two-lane roads, with one lane going in each direction. Some roads are no more than a one car lane and it got real interesting sometimes when we met a vehicle going in the opposite direction. It is easy to understand that people living in this part of the country would want only a small vehicle.    

    Cornwall is the land of legendary shipwrecks, with over 3000 recorded along the rugged coastline. In Charlestown, on a rainy afternoon, we visited the Shipwreck Museum. The museum was quite well done, with video narration of several famous shipwrecks. The museum was full of shipwreck relics.

    Prince Charles has an estate in Cornwall. The eldest royal son has been the Duke of Cornwall for ages.  If produce or a product is labeled duchy, it means the tax goes to the Duke's trust. Prince Charles’ trust makes loans/grants to small business enterprises.

   Mevagissey, a quaint small fishing village, has a history of smuggling. In fact smuggling was a common enterprise years ago all along the Cornwall coast. One evening we had fish and chips in the Fountain Inn, a 15^th century pub where even today the bar, oak beams, and slate floor are the original. The meaning of history certainly comes alive!  George Bernard Shaw wrote The Doctor’s Dilemma  in 1906 while living in Mevagissey.

Hedgerow up a fell

  Driving over the narrow country lanes was a delight. The hedgerow-lined meadows became part of panoramic views as the bushes and flowers along the roads thinned. Wild flowers were in bloom everywhere. Taking one wrong turn our van driver said, “You can’t get lost in Cornwall, you just take the wrong route.” Every once in awhile we’d find a small village or a thatched roof house, but we saw no tourists, buses or fast food restaurant. Ah the pleasures of a small or private group and a van!

Penzance is a seaside community with an ocean promenade that offered a delightful view of Mount’s Bay and St. Michael’s Mount.  In the 16^th century Spanish raiders destroyed most of the town, so most buildings were 18^th century.

     St. Ives has been known as an artist colony since the 1880s. Whistler came  to paint. Daphne de Maurier and Virginia Wolfe wrote here. I visited the Barbara Hepworth sculptor garden. I had a heck of a time finding it, but eventually did after asking several people for directions. Her sculpture was very modern, and it didn’t take me long to get through the garden. The harbor exported tin, wooden barrels, and fish, and imported coal for the mining industry. I did wander the beach area, but generally walked up and down the cobbled alleyways looking in shops. It is a delightful picturesque village. The streets are only lanes and the area is very hilly. A shuttle runs from the carpark down into the village. Coaches, and there were many of them, had to park in an area high above town. We also parked the van in the carpark and took advantage of the shuttle.

Previous post include: Cornwall in a Nutshell 3/10/13, Tin Mine 1/11, Cornwall surprises 7/12, Buckfast Abbey 5/13, Minach Theater 6/10/13 and Eden project 3/21/13

LEARNING NEW THINGS ALL THE TIME

                               A Fascinating Day                             

     One of the fun things about traveling is learning new things all the time. This is especially true if you have a good guide and knowledgeable docents. One day hiking in England was full of new experiences---about old things.

    We stopped often for explanations of various and sundried things. A couple of bug eating plants, sundew and butterwort, were pointed out to us.  Years ago when there was no church in town  coffins were carried over a coffin road to the nearest cemetery. We walked over a coffin road which now was no more than a hiking path. We imagined what it would  be like carrying a coffin on our shoulders.

    We detoured onto a pit stead where it was explained that a pit stead (flat area) is needed for charcoal burning and it was often elevated like the one we were standing on. A large pole (motte peg) was placed upright in the center of a circle. Coppice wood cut in 4-5 foot lengths was placed spoke fashion around the motte peg and piled 8-10 feet high. Then the whole pile was covered with bracken (fern like plant), leaving a small vent at the bottom.  Dirt was placed on top of the bracken. The motte peg was removed and the hole left filled with hot coals. Then the coals were covered so the whole thing was airtight. If air got in, the result was ash instead of charcoal. It was left to burn 2-3 days. The charcoal was cooled with water, sacked, and placed on a packhorse to be carried out. By 1913 the charcoal industry gave way to coke.  (Neither the drink nor the drug, but a type of coal)

    Coppice wood is woodland that is cut every 15 years.

    Oak bark was soaked to produce tannin that was used  in the leather industry, and is the foundation of the expression I’ll tan your hide.

    We walked into one huge cave left from quarrying.

Afterward we walked over the 400 year old Slaters pack horse bridge. There are many of these old bridges around England. These stone bridges were very narrow and beautifully arched over becks (small

Slater's bridge w/ stone wall in background

streams). Many of the arched bridges and the old pack horse bridges are still standing in good condition 3-400 years later. Arched lumber was laid over the stream and anchored.  A key stone was placed on the center top, then rocks were laid to the edges. When the wood was removed the rocks locked themselves in place. The pack horse bridges we passed over were very narrow requiring single file so it is hard to imagine a horse dragging a cart (2 wheels vs. 4 on a wagon) passing over them. These bridges are so sturdy I wonder if they could even be torn down.  

    To get to this bridge we had to climb over an old stile built into the wall. The ancient stile used cantilevered  stones as steps, a one foot wide hole at the top of the wall provided a pivot point before stepping down the other side on more cantilevered stones. Maneuvering the first time was a bit of a challenge, but once we got the hang of it, it was easy.

     Later walking along a narrow lane (alley really) we spotted wild raspberries growing. We all stopped and I, for one, had a ball picking and eating. It had been a fun, interesting and educational day!

WILLIAM WORDSWORTH

                                      A Poet Laureate 

     While in England’s Lake District we learned about several English authors who once lived in the area. It was a very warm, very humid day when we took off to learn more about William Wordsworth.

     Rydal Mount sits on a hilltop among 4 ½ acres, so it was a hike up a pretty steep cobblestone street. As one can imagine the view was quite beautiful. We learned William Wordsworth lived in several homes before moving to Rydal Mount in 1813 at the age of 43,. He did not own this home because a Mr. Fleming would not sell. However, it was his home for 37 years and his rent of only 35 pounds a year never changed.

    Few people realize Wordsworth was quite a landscape gardener and actually landscaped many homes in the area, and the grounds at Rydal Mount have remained pretty much as he designed them. The landscaping blended beautifully with the natural landscape of the surrounding fells. The original two story house, built in 1574, was added on to in 1750. Having lost two children at their previous home, Wordsworth and his wife, Mary Hutchinson, were ready for a change of scenery when   they    moved to this lovely property. Three other children age 10, 9, and 3 also moved with them. In 1969 a great granddaughter was able to purchase Rydal Mount, and it now remains a family home with members of the family staying there periodically.

     Wordsworth was very close to his sister, Dorothy. She lived with his family for many years.  In those days single women remained with the family until they married and did not live alone. 

    William Wordsworth died at Rydal Mount in 1850.

    After touring the home and spending some time among the lovely landscaping we headed down hill to Dove Cottage. Again we picked up a local docent who told us, “In 1799 Wordsworth lived at Dove Cottage and this is where he brought his bride in 1802. They remained here until 1808 when the family and many visitors simply outgrew the house.”

     Dove Cottage, built in 1600, was originally a pub. The paneling was very dark—to hide the smoke and alcohol stains. Wordsworth preferred a simple lifestyle. She pointed out that he used a calling card basket on the entry table instead of the traditional silver tray.

The floors of large slate blocks showed the wear of centuries of walking. The rooms of the cottage were very small. In the kitchen we were shown candle molds and told, “Houses used to be taxed on the number of windows they contained with seven windows being tax free. You can imagine that most rooms were pretty dark. Candles were made by melting either sheep or pig fat. Sometimes the candles were dipped, but that was a very slow, time consuming process, so more often molds were used where five candles could be made at one time by simply pouring the melted fat into the mold. It was a common practice to run a reed through a candle horizontally and then light both ends of the reed. This gave off the light of three candles and that is how the expression burning your candle at both ends originated.”  I love fun expression and origins---England is full of them.

At age 73 Wordsworth was appointed poet laureate to Queen Victoria. For this honor he received 60 guineas a year and a case of wine at Christmas.

Owned by the Wordsworth Trust, Dove Cottage has been preserved and is open to the public.