GROS MORNE NATIONAL PARK

A Huge  Park

To get to Gros Morne Nnational Park we traveled through dense pine and spruce forest for miles and miles with lots of water, lakes, streams and rivers along the way. I had wanted to visit this park for a long time but it is nor easy to get there, so I was happy to finally have found a way without having to rent a car and make the long drive to the west part of the province.

Originally the forest came to the road edge, but because moose were such a problem, the forest was cut back ten meters on each side of the highway. Driving at night is not recommended as roads are winding, do not have shoulders, are unlighted, and most often do not have outside lines and faint middle lane lines. Plentiful moose add to the driving hazard.

Gros Morne National Park, Canada’s largest National Park, was established in 1973 and given a UNESCO designation in 1987. The terrain is varied and extensive. Geologists from all over the world visit to study different geological forces. It is an area of great beauty with a rich variety of scenery, wildlife and recreational areas. The vast park encompasses western highlands, coastal lowlands, mountains, fjords, valleys, deep glacial lakes, coastal bogs, towering wave carved cliffs, waterfalls, marine inlets, sea stacks, sandy beaches, tundra-like plateaus, grasslands and the spectacular Tablelands and the wondrous Arches. Natural forces of glaciers and shifting continental plates have shaped and formed a landscape creating mountains ten times older than the Canadian Rockies. Colorful fishing villages dot the landscape. There are spectacular views from all over the park.

During our 2-3 day stay in the park area I had a chance to hike several paths along the water’s edge to view the rocky coastline. We visited Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse. The 115 ft high white, conical cast iron tower was automated in 1969. The lighthouse marking the approach to Rocky Harbor and the entrance to Bonne Bay since 1897 is maintained by the Canadian Coast Guard.

The lighthouse houses a small but nice museum. The seasonal fishing for salmon and cod by Europeans in the 1800s led to the growth of communities. The rapid changes of the 20th century have shifted lifestyles away from the sea and lessened dependence on its resources.

Broom Point juts raggedly into the Gulf of St. Lawrence like a worn version of its namesake. The marine mammals, birds and fish of the cold Gulf waters have attracted people to the area for 2300 years.

Joining us a Parks Canada guide told us, “The three Mudge brothers and their families fished from this site from 1941-1975. The family sold the property to the park and have helped to restore the buildings and return the inside of the home with its original furnishings.”

In the shed close to the water’s edge he explained the dory and demonstrated how a lobster trap works. There were no roads into this area until the 1940s, so everything had to be brought in by boat. The brothers fished for cod, lobster and salmon. The cod was cut, salted, and dried on the rocks. Every night, and when rain threatened, the cod had to be stacked in piles and then sheltered. If cod was dried on racks then the racks can be picked up and stacked, but there is no sand so the Mudge brothers just used the clean rocks for drying.

It was hard to imagine moving hundreds of pounds of fish frequently. The whole family was involved in the process. The salmon was canned on the premises and the guide demonstrated how that was done including the hand crimping of the can lids after three hours of boiling. It was another labor intensive job!

After the road arrived in 1959 people could come and pick up the fish so it could be processed elsewhere.

The wind was rather chilly so it was nice to get out of the cold wind into the small warm house when the guide invited us to enter. A fire was burning in the cast iron wood stove. The guide continued, “Ten people lived in this house every year from April to September.” The old iron beds didn’t look very comfortable but I bet they wee so tired they slept well anyway! The guide continued saying, “In the winter the brothers worked as lumberjacks.”

On a clear sunny one we took the BonTour ferry from Norris Point across Bonne Bay to Woody Point. Spots of snow were visible on the Tablelands. As we drove to the ferry I noted the small town had a hospital and three doctors.

The ferry captain said over the loud speaker, “The mountains in Gros Morne are only 7000-7500 feet tall. Gros Morne itself is only 830 meters (932 feet). Note that the mountains do not have peaks but are rounded. Only young mountains have pointed peaks.

“Bonne Bay is 750-800 feet deep and nearly that much more glacier silt sits on the bottom. Many war ships came into the bay During WW II. Ten-mile Pond is only seven miles long but is so named because it was ten miles from the trapper’s home. Pretty logical a long time ago, if you think about it. The mountains here average 40 feet of snow a year and the lower land half that much.”

Bald eagles were flying overhead. Snow crab buoys bobbed in the harbor. Apparently kayaking is a popular sport and several kayakers were paddling around in the water enjoying the nice day.

At the new Discovery Center our Park Canada guide was waiting us. The street level of the center has a museum with informative displays. The upper deck had a wonderful terrace for whale watching. The guide took us on a loop trail where we started out on what was an old partially paved narrow road. The six foot wide road soon narrowed and then turned into a Parks Canada foot path. Stopping often she pointed out and identified some small plant. The last plant was the pitcher plant that eats bugs. It was a pretty plant and one I’d love to try to grow. At the barren Tablelands she explained how they came to be, adding, “The Tablelands plateau has some of the oldest rocks in the world, a real geological rarity.” It was a most enjoyable visit with delightful sunny weather.

ENGLISH NATIONAL PARKS

                                     Grasmere and the Parks
     England’s National Park history is much shorter than ours, and there are marked differences of how its parks are run compared to the U.S. National Park System.   The National Park and Access to Countryside Act of 1949 was the beginning of England’s eleven National Parks. The major portion of funding comes from the central government with the remainder of the monies coming from local rates, car parks, and fees for guided walks etc.

    The main functions of the National Parks are to preserve and enhance the area’s natural beauty, to promote enjoyment of the area, and to look after the needs of the local people. England’s National Parks are all living landscapes as people live and work in the parks. The government does not own the parks. England’s parks are privately owned and landowners vary from small homes and farms to major landowners who control thousands of acres. Many of the major landowners can trace their history back many

generations. The local population has need for employment, housing, health, education etc. which need to be considered by both the park authorities and visitors. Before the establishment of the National Parks it was up to the voluntary sector to protect areas of outstanding beauty. The National Trust, established in 1895, is still active and going strong owning property throughout England and Wales. In National Parks the Trust works in fairly close cooperation with the Park Authority. However being a charity it is dependent on member subscriptions, entry fees to properties and rents from numerous farms and cottages.

   The Lake District’s 880 square miles makes it England’s largest National Park and the second so designated,  1951; the first park was the Peak District.  The 880 square miles makes a rough circle 35 miles in diameter and 40,000 people live within the park boundaries. William Wordsworth and Beatrix Potter as well as other poets and authors popularized the area in the mid 18^th century.

     Today there are many pressures on the National Parks. One of the most urgent and biggest problems is the impact of tourism. The area needs tourist income, but how to control the impact of many people using and enjoying the landscape. Then there is the need for tourist facilities, and control of building and type of structures also impact the growth. The need of the residents is always ever present. Modern farming methods and commercial forestry are also needs. Erosion is a constant problem, often caused by people straying off paths destroying vegetation.

      Repair of paths is a constant manpower as well as a  financial problem.     Leveling walkways, providing disabled access, identifying drainage problems, replanting and protecting such from sheep and deer are just some of the problems facing the area. It might be said that the area has been loved to death. Trying to find a quiet balance is a challenge.

     I’ve hiked and enjoyed several of the country’s parks and have always been respectful of them as they are a treasure.

       England’s Lake District is picturesque with many low mountains, abundant trees and flora. Sheep are seen everywhere and we were to learn a lot about them as well as transit many of their pastures. England has about twenty breeds of sheep, and the most common are the Herdwick, Blackface, and Swaledale.

     Romans came here 2000 years ago and the Vikings 1000 years ago. The old Roman road is 2480-feet high and one can still walk the path the Romans used to pull carts. Fell is a Viking word meaning mountain.

Good hiking boots needed

     In Grasmere we stayed in a sprawling Edwardian hotel located on a small lake. Grasmere is a city as well as a lake and this is where it can be confusing to a stranger. Mere, water, tarn all designate a lake so to say Lake Grasmere is redundant. Tarn is from a Viking word meaning tear. There are 247 bodies of water ranging from small to fairly large in the Lake District.

     Buildings and homes in the area are of either native blue or green slate with slate roofs. Building codes are strict. It is illegal to import stone or to use any non native stone. Historic preservation dictates that if a building is torn down it must be replaced the same size and in the same spot.                       Windermere is a large lake, 10 ½ X 1 mile, and 276 feet deep. It’s fast flowing water changes the surface water every three days. Three steamboats sail on the lake. There are only three lakes in the district that allow motors, two have 10 mph speed limits and Windermere is the only lake with unlimited motor rules. However, because of erosion and pollution a study of that was underway.

PLITVICE NATIONAL PARK

                                              One Lovely Park

I chose the trip I did to Croatia because Plitvice Lakes (PLEA-veet-seh) were on the agenda. Also known as the Land of Falling Lakes, the 16 turquoise cascading lakes separated by limestone dams and countless waterfalls are located in Croatia’s first national park and one of Europe’s last old-growth forests. The 114-square-mile park, established as a national forest in 1949, became a UNESCO site in 1979. There is no town nearby, but 700,000 people visit the park each year, however few are Americans. The park has two entrances.

            Running parallel to the Dalmatian Coast the natural landscape of karst formations is located in the   limestone Denaridge Mountains.  Travertine traces can be seen in some of the streams. The area is famous for its numerous waterfalls and green, emerald, and turquoise waters. Clear water, flowing from the mountains, brings calcium carbonate with it which interacts with plants, algae, and moss to create the beauty and ever-changing landscape that is in constant motion. Minerals coat vegetation on the lake bottoms that reflects sunlight creating a blue color. Eventually vegetation thickens, and travertine barriers form and waterfalls emerge. It is one of Europe’s most spectacular natural wonders.

            Nestled between Mount Mala Kapela and Mount Pljesevica the upper and lower lakes have a height difference of 440-feet. The lakes are tranquil in summer, but waterfalls continue to flow during cold, harsh winters filled with ice and snow. The longest waterfall, located in the lower lakes, is 250-feet high. The mountain flow of water determines whether one experiences a light mist or thundering deluge. Lake Kozjak is the largest lake.

            The magical landscape includes forests, lakes, streams, rivers, and miles of pleasant walks in the National Park. Trees cling to cliffs. In the ancient European forest and trees stay where they fall. 

            Abundant beech trees provide nuts for wildlife.  The plentiful wildlife includes brown bear, European owl, mice, squirrel-like dormice, grey heron, otter, wild cats, European pond turtle, wolf, boar, woodpeckers, turkey grouse, black stork, red squirrel, badgers and 160 species of birds.

            The recent war’s first casualty was a park policeman.  Serbs occupied the park until 1995, but fortunately there was little damage to the area other than the killing of much of the larger wildlife.

            Hotel Jezero, a large modern hotel with 229 rooms, is located at the park entrance. Surrounded by lush forest, the region’s tranquil waters are at your doorstep.

            It was a long transfer day from Dubrovnik to Plitvice.  Late afternoon we went for a walk in the woods descending many of the 239 steps to the lake. I could hear waterfalls but couldn’t quite get to them. The weather had cooled considerably. The beautiful area is very peaceful.

            The next morning we woke to a lovely day. Our guide told us, “I was here five times last year and it rained every time.”  We were lucky!

            We walked around the incredibly beautiful lower four lakes.  There are waterfalls around every corner, all sizes, all heights.  The water not only rolled over the edge but also flowed thru several holes in the rock so a fall might have 7-8 falls flowing under the water falling over the top. I have never seen such falls. They were unbelievable.

            The water was not as cold as I expected. The pathways were well packed and smooth. In many places we walked over elevated wooded walkways. I walked slowly as this was a prime destination for me and I wanted to absorb the scenery and beauty as long as possible.

            In one lake  fish swarmed in large schools along the edge in several places. The waster was crystal clear everywhere. The colors of the lakes varied from green to turquoise. The sound of running water was wonderful.

            The 12 upper lakes are less scenic and are visited much less often. The walks in the park are limited to the areas around the lakes, even though the park extends much farther. There are still war remnants left in the rural areas and it is not safe to walk them without extreme caution.

            We were visiting on a Saturday but ran into virtually no other people. We did meet a couple of young American girls who had been studying in Italy and were now headed home. Ah youth!

             The area is often referred to as the Devil’s Garden or Land of the Wolf which translates into lifka.

            Plitvice ranks high on my list as one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever visited. I didn’t want to leave, but eventually we came to the end at one of the largest lakes and reluctantly left. 

GRIZEDALE NATIONAL FOREST

A UNIQUE HIKE

            In England we did many great hikes, one that stands out in my mind was through the sculpture of the Grizedale National Forest. Enroute we were told, “In the 10^th century peaceful Vikings came to this area. Many married the villagers. Monks from 1150-1539 dominated this area. In 1539 Henry VIII destroyed the monastery and sold the property to landowners.”

Scotch pine is the only native coniferous tree in the area and the English oak the only native deciduous tree.  In the 17^th century the larch tree was introduced for its aroma and medicinal uses.

Our guide continued, “In 1936 one could purchase parcels of 1500-2000 acres. During World War II women tended the farms when the men went off to war. The Forest Commission was formed after the war ended. Soon after, lodgepole pines were planted on the high area.

“In 1960 English representatives went to the United States to study the park system and brought back many ideas to England.  Grizedale was one of the first forests in England opened to the public. In the mid 1970s sculptures were allowed and encouraged. They can be made of wood, stone, or metal.  There even is a special sculpture map of the park.”

The hike started out with us climbing 500 feet straight up a rocky eroded path, but the view when one reached the top was magnificent! We viewed many sculptures hiking that day. Some were really neat, some conventional, and some pretty weird. It made the hike interesting—sort of like a treasure hunt. It was a fun afternoon.

            In England people live and farm in the parks. While hiking, during our visit, we opened many a gate to continue on our way.

During a lecture we learned that today there are many pressures on the National Parks. One of the most urgent and biggest problems is the impact of tourism. The area needs tourist income, but how to control the impact of many people using and enjoying the landscape. Then there is the need for tourist facilities and control of building and type of structures, all of which impact the growth. The need of the residents is always  present. Modern farming methods and commercial forestry are also needs.

Erosion is a constant problem, often caused by people straying off paths destroying vegetation. Repair of paths is a constant man-power and financial problem.     Leveling walk-ways, providing disabled access, identifying drainage problems, replanting and protecting such from sheep and deer are other problems facing the area. It might be said that the area has been loved to death. Trying to find a quiet balance is a challenge.