NUREMBERG, GERMANY

                            An Interesting City

We arrived in Nuremberg on a Sunday, and in Germany Sunday is a family day, no question about it.  The shops were closed. However a local city guide showed us the important sites.

The medieval foundation was built on Roman ruins. Nuremberg means stony hill and the first settlement was built on a hill. The first documents in 1050 mentioned when a slave was freed. That was unusual as most documents then referred to trade or war. The medieval trade route was lost when a sea route developed, and the city became part of Bavaria under Napoleon.

Nuremberg is the second largest city in Bavaria and capitol of Franconia. The 16^th century zigzag fortification walls were designed by an Italian architect. By the 19^th century the entire city was still behind the city walls. In January 1945, 525 British Lancaster bombers bombed the city, so much of the city’s medieval splendor was lost in the ashes of WW II. Dresden is the only city that received more war devastation.

 For years the city’s name conjured up a recollection of the infamous Nuremberg war trials. That is now soft-pedaled as the city has many other things to offer. However, our first stop was the Party Rally Grounds of the Nazi Third Reich 

The 11 square kilometer grounds were built between 1933-38 for the Nazi conventions held each September. The convention center resembles the Roman Coliseum, which is no coincidence. Built between 1935-42 it is 40 meters high, but was never finished to its intended 60 meters. Besides being built to impress, it also was built to seat 50,000 people. Hitler intended the granite-fronted building to be a monument forever. Located next to a lake, the center’s reflection gives the impression it’s even larger. At the time these grounds were built unemployment in Germany was 33%, and it gave many people a job.

The field was meant to accommodate 100,000 spectators and 70,000 participants. A huge golden swastika was removed from the lecture area by the allies. Pillars were also removed, possibly because they also had swastika imprints on them. The whole Nazi movement was a combination of fascination and violence. The SS barracks were occupied by American soldiers and new refugees from 1945-92.

Nuremberg was a rich important city because it was an important trade route, and it was close to the Emperor who held his first diet (imperial meetings) here. Today the city has a full democratic council. Nuremberg, an industrial town, is known for its toys, and many other handcrafts with excellent workmanship.

As we traveled the city I noted a marked contrast as the architecture changed from modern boxy construction to old medieval buildings. It was almost like a curtain had been dropped in some areas.

The Imperial Castle (Kaiserburg) was the residence of German kings and emperors. We walked up a cobbled incline to the entrance where we stopped while our guide explained, “An enemy had to climb this ascending wooden bridge that made it hard to run, but if he was successful, he immediately ran into a stone wall here. The ascending walk inside made it easy for the inhabitants to roll a burning fireball down on to the enemy, and if that failed there were holes in the ceiling where hot oil could be poured on the trespassers below. But as far as we know none of these things were ever put to use.”

The tower dates to the 11^th century. The inner court contained a deep well, which was guarded. The moat was dry. At the end of the courtyard was a Roman chapel with only one seat---for the emperor.    

  We ended our city tour at Marketsquare that houses the 60-foot high, 1370s stone pyramid fountain where thirty figures are arranged in four tiers. The ironsmith who made the wrought iron fence surrounding the fountain had an apprentice who fell in love with a nobleman’s daughter. Naturally the dad objected to the match. One evening the apprentice disappeared never to be heard from again, but he left a golden journeyman’s ring on the fence. It is said that if one turns the ring it will bring good luck. Because the ring had to be replaced frequently it now is no longer gold.

The churches were all having services so we could only view the facades. The center of the square was covered with several hundred green rabbits—a modern art exhibit.  It was different but at the same time kind of quaint.

This trip to Europe was made during the big heat wave that blanketed the continent. It was hot, hot, hot so we were happy to make it back to the boat to enjoy the air conditioning!

LOOKING FOR DOLPHINS

Bottlenose Dolphins

            Each day in Belize we went looking for dolphin in different locations. Our team was lucky as we found these beautiful creatures every day!  We used a 23-foot boat with a 75 horse power outboard engine and took turns documenting various data.

            When we spotted dolphins we counted the number of animals and the composition of the pod as well as their behavior. We followed them as long as possible noting the beginning and ending times of the sighting. Dolphins are identified by their dorsal fin. In the evening we had a chance to help identify various dolphins---not an easy task!

Because there are no year-round residents at Turneffe Atoll the human impact on the ecosystem and dolphin is minimal. The government owns a few small fishing camps on the atoll which are leased to licensed fishermen who fish mostly for lobster, conch, snapper, grouper, and barracuda. Gill netting and purse-seining are illegal in Belize, so all fishing is small scale.

The mangroves serve as nurseries for baby fish and invertebrates. They are a nutrient source for the sea grass beds which trap sediments from the mangroves. Clear water is essential for the health of the reef. Corals need light to grow and the reef is home to a multitude of fish.

Bottlenose dolphins inhabit temperate and tropical waters throughout the world. There appear to be two ecotypes: an off shore and a coastal form. They can be identified by skull and teeth structure and by blood characteristics.

            Coastal bottlenose dolphins vary in group size ranging from one individual to 30 animals. These animals stay within a limited home range although they may migrate hundreds of miles. The home range of coastal populations may overlap. The offshore ecotype can be observed in larger groups. Atlantic bottlenose dolphins are generally 6-9 feet long and weigh between 136-272 kilograms. They receive their name from their bottle-shaped beak. Their body resembles a torpedo. The coloration ranges from gray to almost black. In warmer climates they exhibit a pink belly when engaged in rigorous activity as a way of releasing heat.

Males reach sexual maturity between 10-12 years; females at 5-12 years. Gestation is 11-12 months and calves nurse 12-18 months.  Females give birth to a single calf. Long term studies show that their lifespan can be 40-50 years. Age is determined by growth layers in a dolphin’s tooth. (Similar to counting the rings on a tree) Bottlenose dolphins are active predators that feed on a wide variety of fish and invertebrates.  In many areas they have adapted their feeding habits to coincide with human activities. They are often seen feeding behind fishing boats and shrimp trawlers. At Turneffe the main activity is lobster and conch fishing.

Bottlenose dolphins are often seen bow riding and body surfing and this may be a means of reducing energy expenditure by allowing the wave motion to carry them forward. However, they also will surf on a wave that takes them in the opposite direction of movement and may suggest that this is a form of play behavior.

Dolphins are highly social and are usually seen in schools.  It has been suggested that learning within the social unit is important and that school behavior is a major component of the animal’s daily activity regime.

Dolphins are mammals and must breath to survive. Unlike most mammals they have no hair but an insulating layer of fat to maintain a constant body temperature of 97-99 degrees. The porpoise is a close relative of the dolphin, but has a blunt snout and a stockier build, not quite as sleek 

This was my first research trip and whetted my appetite to do several other such projects. It was a  fun, learning and active vacation!