ATIU,COOK ISLANDS

                        Atiu, A Cook Island Paradise

           Atiu is 130 miles northeast of Rarotonga. Early afternoon we loaded zodiacs to surf through the breakwater’s narrow opening to the beach where we were greeted by conch blowing and drum beating warriors. The whole island turned out to greet us, and friendly gals gave each of us a fresh flower lei. The fragrant plumeria lei is my favorite.

 We were ushered to their open-air recreation building where we were given a feast of delicious fresh island fruit served on palm fond woven plates. The friendly islanders put on a very good dance demonstration for us.

Then we loaded les truck for a ride around the island. Our transportation was literally a pickup truck with benches placed in the truck’s bed. This is the only means of transportation on the island. The island’s many narrow roads sometimes were nothing more than tire-tracks. The vegetation was lush and thick. Atiu’s high central plateau at 233 feet is a contrast to its neighboring flat islands. The island is surrounded by low swamps and a 66-foot high raised coral reef.  Dense forest grow on the west coast and low growing bird nest ferns provide a thick green cover. The cliffs of Makatea contain extensive limestone caves.

 Atiu’s 900 residents live in five villages, in clustered groups inland, different from Tahitians who live around the perimeter of their islands. In 1777 when Capt. Cook discovered this volcanic island he named it Island Enuamanu meaning land of birds. Coffee, taro, pineapple, papaya, and oranges are grown for export to New Zealand.

            While sipping  fresh coffee at the  small Atui Coffee Company we were told. “There are two types of coffee beans grown in the world: robusta and arabica. Robusta beans are dried in their shells absorbing caffeine and acid in the process. Because this would be too bitter to drink plain, these beans are combined with arabica beans which are dried without their shells. Arabica beans are only grown in a few places, Atiu, Kenya, and Costa Rica among them. The beans are separated by size before roasting to produce even roasting. The size of the bean does not determine flavor; they are all the same. The longer the bean is roasted the less caffeine and acid, as it is lost in the roasting process. That is why dark roasted coffee has less caffeine. From January to June the cherries are handpicked and within six hours the cherries are pulped to expose the bean. Atiu coffee is 100% sun dried.”

            In the center of the island we stopped where many years ago someone paced off the island north to south and east and west and determined this to be the center of the island. More recently surveyors repeated the process with modern instruments and found the original marker off by only two meters!

A docent accompanied us to several ancient sites saying, “These ancient temples are called maraes.  In times past the High Chiefs would gather here to decide if they would or would not go to war. There are three tribes on the island now, each ruled by its own chief. Leadership is passed on to the oldest son.”

            We stopped at Atiu’s only hotel. Tourism is in its infancy here so its four cabins were apparently adequate to accommodate the island’s 600 annual visitors. The owner, an Englishman, met my wife in New Zealand more than 25 years ago. She is Tahitian and after a holiday on Atiu in 1979 they decided to move here, arriving on the first plane. He built the quaint and comfortable bungalows using native woods.

            Our final stop on the island was at the small beach where Capt. Cook landed. The lovely island would be great for a relaxing vacation, but I’m afraid a bit too small for me not to suffer a little island fever.

FLANDERS FIELD, BELGIUM

                                 Flanders Field 
This seems like an appropriate time for this post in memory of all our veterans.

            Flanders Field is located in the medieval County of Flanders, which spans southern Belgium and north-west France.

            We were met on arrival by the American manager of the cemetery who told us, “The agency that maintains 24 cemeteries is called the American Battles Monument Commission and is an independent agency falling under the executive branch. General Pershing was the first executor of the organization.”

            While in the warm building he continued, “The crosses are made of Italian white marble. There are two Jewish Unknown Soldier markers in the cemetery. Nine days after Lindberg’s solo flight, he flew over the cemetery and dropped a bouquet of red poppies. The occupants of this cemetery were the first and last to act under foreign command—Belgium. There are no women buried here.” The first Memorial Day was in 1924.

            Of course during WW I no women served in the armed forces.          A crew of four maintains the cemetery. All the stones are washed first thing each week day with water and a soft brush. When a family member visits, the stone is dampened and engravings filled with Normandy sand. This gives a golden glow to the engravings and makes them stand out in photographs.

Battlefield

            The German military used poison gas for the first time on the Western Front which saw the beginning of ‘trench warfare’ that characterized this global war. The Battle of Passchendaele (third battle) ended when British, Canadian, Australian and New Zealand forces recaptured the Passchendaele ridge, east of the city but at tremendous loss. During three months of fighting

over 750,000 men lost their lives.     The American Cemetery and Memorial is the only American World War I cemetery in Belgium and is the smallest American cemetery in Europe. There are 368 American servicemen who died in Belgium buried or commemorated  here. The cemetery occupies a six acre site, and as with all Allied war cemeteries, the land was provided in perpetuity by the Belgian government.

The headstones are aligned in four symmetrical areas around the white stone chapel that stands in the center of the cemetery. The altar inside the chapel is made of black and white Grand Antique marble with draped flags on each side. A crusader's sword outlined in gold is above the altar. The chapel furniture is carved oak, stained black with white veining to harmonize with the altar. The side walls of the chapel are inscribed with the names of 43 missing American servicemen who have no known graves. The small chapel has a gorgeous ceiling.

Masses of graceful trees and shrubbery frame the burial area and screen it from passing traffic. At the ends of the paths leading to three corners of the cemetery are circular retreats, with benches and urns.         

During WW I, Canadian physician, Lt. Colonel John McCrae, is believed to have written this famous poem in May 1915 after witnessing the death the day before of his 22-year-old friend, Lieutenant Alexis Helmer.  The poppies referred to grew in profusion in Flanders in the disturbed earth of battlefields and cemeteries and thus became a symbol of Memorial Day, November 11, when WW I ended on the 11^th  day of the 11^th month at 11 AM.

            In Flanders fields the poppies blow
             Between the crosses, row on row,
             That mark our place; and in the sky
             The larks, still bravely singing, fly
             Scarce heard amid the guns below.

            We are the Dead. Short days ago
            We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
               Loved and were loved, and now we lie,
             In Flanders fields.

            Take up our quarrel with the foe:
            To you from failing hands we throw
             The torch; be yours to hold it high.
               If ye break faith with us who die
            We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
                          In Flanders fields

Needless to say this was a somber but memorable visit. The American manager was kind, helpful and answered all of our questions.