GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

                                       A Fabulous Experience
    In Quito for some reason there was a very long wait to obtain our boarding passes and we were grateful our guide took care of this matter for us while we sat in the smoke filled waiting room.

     The airport had three gates opening out onto the tarmac. Escorted to the proper gate, we  noted  a blinking neon sign saying ‘Cuenca’. We were headed to the Galapagos via Guayaquil. However, everyone else in the area was headed in our direction so we stood firm. Later we found out the sign had not been changed for three years!

    We stood in line at the gate for a long time. There seemed to be a problem with the plane and there was no reserve plane in sight. A toilet seat sat in the forward doorway for a good while, then suddenly disappeared back inside the plane.

     We landed in Quayaquil (why a keel) where we retrieved our luggage, walked a couple hundred yards and boarded another plane. No one knew why!

      The open-air airport on Baltra Island  was quaint and reminded me of my first arrival at the Honolulu airport in 1955---so many years ago!  One thing different was the long hour wait to get through customs. We could pay our $80 park fee in either American dollars or Ecuadorian Sucre. Knowing the park would not accept traveler’s checks, I had exchanged money the day before at the hotel in anticipation of this expense.  You can imagine the fistful of money I had to equal $160 when 1800 Sucre equaled a dollar. I handed the stack of bills to the park ranger and asked him to count it.

     The Galapagos Islands is an archipelago of volcano islands in the Pacific Ocean distributed on either side of  Ecuador. The Galápagos Islands and their surrounding waters form an Ecuadoran Province, a national park, and a biological marine reserve. They consist of 18 major  and 3 minor islands and many rock outcroppings and inlets. We had the pleasure of visiting nine of the islands: Baltra, Bartolomé, Santa Cruz or Darwin, Espanola or Hood, Fernandina, Tower, Isebela,   Floreana, and Plaza Island. It was a fabulous experience! 

Albatross mate for life. They return to Espanola each spring, find their mate and bare their young. In December they fly off in all different directions. Babies do not return for five years at which time they return to find a mate

On Floreana interestingly enough all the flowers on the island are either white or yellow because there is only one variety of bee to do all the pollinating

Flour Beach’s sand was snow white and a contrast to the brown sandy beach we landed on. Being a turtle breeding ground prevented any swimming at that beach.

Years ago sailors would leave addressed letters in a mailbox at Post Office Bay. They also would remove any letters addressed to their destination. When they arrived in port they would stamp and mail the letters. The custom continues today.

On Santa Cruz Island we stopped at the rim of a sink hole, Sitting quietly we listened to the songs of Galapagos doves and watched vermilion flycatchers.  Later as we walked downhill we stopped at a lava tunnel which I found a little spooky.

When I walked out on deck the next morning with my first cup of coffee I suddenly stopped short, mesmerized by the sight of two red footed boobies perched on the bowsprit.

Tower Island is nick-named the Islands of Birds or Bird Island for the millions of birds that call it home. We were lucky as it was mating season for the masked boobies, blue footed boobies, and frigate birds. We spent a good deal of time watching them and their mating dances.

Visit Posts: Iguanas 10-19-11     Tower Island 1-28-12     More about Galapagos  7-17-11

                               

TARAHUMARA INDIANS

                                         Tarahumara Culture

        After our week in the Sea of Cortez and our ride on the Copper Canyon Railroad we hung out  for a couple of days in the Posada Barrancos, the area where one can best see the canyon,  .

       The Spanish originally encountered the Tarahumara Indians throughout Chihuahua upon arrival in the 1500's. The Tarahumara are shy and private, so as the Spanish moved in the Indians retreated for the nearly inaccessible canyons of the Sierra Tarahumara—which we call the Copper Canyon. As miners encroached onto their way of life they moved even deeper into the remote canyons. It is estimated that today there are over 70,000 Tarahumaras, making them Mexico's second largest native Indian group

       Living in caves, under cliffs and in small wood and stone cabins in remote areas, they live a simple life without modern technology. They call themselves Raramuri, which refers specifically to men. Women are referred to as mukí. Tarahumara was what the first Spanish called these

Narrow mountain path

Native American people. Rarámuri means "foot-runner. This is their means of transportation over network of narrow footpaths through the canyons. Running is what the Tarahumara are best known  for around the world. They can run down deer and wild turkeys. They also run birds till they tire, not letting them perch and rest.

       One morning we watched a display of their games and walked down a path into the canyon to see where one family lived. They live apart from each other, not in a compound or village like many native peoples. Religious, with a desire for privacy, they are known as a quiet and considerate people who are expert farmers. However, they do gather frequently for ceremonies, celebrations and races.  They make a fermented drink called Tesgüino from sprouted corn. It is quite a process and is made year round.     

      Corn and beans are staple diet products. Potatoes and apples also can be found. Some Tarahumara raise domesticated animals such as goats and cattle. Fish, small game and herbs, a Tarahumara specialty, round out their diet.

      Traditional clothing consists of a white cloth shirt, sometimes with colorful prints, white cloth pants or wraparounds with colorful belts or accessories. Cloth headbands are usually red. Sandals or huaraches are the footwear of choice, and are often made from old tires.

     Musical instruments consist of a three hole flute, rattles and violin. Their dances are simple.

     The women weave gorgeous water-tight baskets in all sizes. At the Barrancos we watched Tarahumara women weaving as they sat on a stone wall visiting with each other. The baskets were an absolute must buy item---getting them home on the plane was a bit of a challenge. I have fond memories of a great trip every time I look at the ones I bought.