Pa and the
Jungle
When in the Cook Islands on Raratonga, the
largest of the islands, I learned its interior was rugged, mountainous and
covered with dense, lush green vegetation---in other words jungle! The narrow valleys and steep hills make it
difficult to populate, and it is an area few visitors venture into.
However, in spite of my age, I thought I
was fit enough and brave enough to trek into the jungle with Pa, who billed
himself as a medicine man. The 58 year old native Raratongan sported blond
dread locks and wore a tie dyed pareu wrapped around his middle resembling a
diaper. It hung to his knees and I wondered if he might have left a load in
it. Looking at him I had a moment of
pause—did I really want to do this trek?
Only one other fellow from our boat was
among the 16 of us brave souls willing to go into the jungle. Pa told us he had
hiked into the mountain over 1000 times.
He pointed out several plants and trees
used by natives for various ailments. This was my area of interest.
Passing some old plantation ruins deep in
the valley we followed a stream into the lush greenness. It was up and over
fallen trees, down on the other side, balancing on rocks in the stream to get
on the other side and then repeat the same process again, and again and again.
Although Pa was several years younger than I , he certainly was agile and none
of the young people in our group could keep up with him.
I wore long pants, long sleeves and a
hat, then doused all exposed areas with mosquito juice. The pesky mosquitos
were insistent and I was glad the repellent smelled a lot better than it did in
my youth.
A couple miles in to the jungle we arrived
at a marae. Before we could step on it Pa had to talk to his ancestors and
bless the site. Because he was a high ariki (kahuna, priest) he could do that.
A marae is an open air temple in a
clearing used for investiture of a new tribal chief. Carried by warriors onto the marae, the chief
sits on a stone at the head of the temple. A pig is brought to him and he is
required to chew off an ear and eat it; after that the celebration begins.
We all did step on the marae for a short
rest. At that point when asked if we wanted to continue that much farther to
the needle it was an unanimous
decision to turn around! We returned to the stream to an area where there was a
small but picturesque waterfall. We
settled in for lunch surrounded by dinosaur ferns. It was quiet and peaceful
with only the sound of rushing water to break the silence. Thankfully the
mosquitoes went elsewhere for lunch!
Raratonga was the last stop on my
Tahiti/Cook Islands adventure so we had disembarked from the ship to a hotel
for a couple of days. Getting back to the hotel after the jungle trek neither I
nor the fellow from the same ship could hardly walk. We both made it to the
pool to soak our sore leg muscles. The next day was a Sunday and the entire
island was closed so we hung out at the
hotel which was probably a smart move as the following day we would be coping
with airports. This gave my small group a chance to visit with each other and
to relive our fantastic trip.