NOVA SCOTIA'S ARCADIAN COAST

                                           Picturesque country

North America’s tallest church steeple

St. Mary"s Church

At St. Mary’s Church on Nova Scotia’s Arcadian coast a local docent said, “This church is thought to have the tallest wooden church spire in North America. Built in 1903-05, the gray shingled church cost $54,000 to build; a recent re-shingle job cost $250,000! Forty ton of rock at the base of the 185-foot tall steeple helps to stabilize it from swaying when strong winds blow in over St. Mary’s Bay. The original steeple was 212 feet high, but a 1914 fire destroyed the top 27 or so feet and has never been replaced. Acadians are known for building awe-inspiring church spires, and this church is no exception.”

The columns inside the airy and bright church are plaster covered tree trunks and most unique.

No one really knows where the altar was intended to go because some well intentioned soul, nearly a century ago, simply took it off the dock, went through customs while a customs agent looked the other way, and delivered the altar to the church. The organ in the church was originally ordered for the university, but when it arrived it was too big for the intended space, so St. Mary’s and St. Anne’s simply switched organs. The church paid the university one dollar for the 990 pipe organ.

The University of Sainte-Anne is located next door to St. Mary’s. Nova Scotia’s only French-language university was founded in 1891 by French priests, and today is the center of Acadian culture in the province. St. Anne’s is a small college having only 300 students. Nova Scotia has more universities per capita than any other Canadian province.

Digby

            A little farther north on the west coast is the small village of Digby, home to the world’s largest scallop fleet. In 1783 Admiral Robert Digby led a group of loyalists, by sea from the states, to settle here.

Fishing is the major industry in this small seaside village of 2300 residents, and scallops are the symbol of St. James. By the way scallops live in the ocean, and clams live in tidal basins. The area of the Bay of Fundy has extreme tides and at low tide all the fishing boats sit on the bottom of the bay until the tide returns to float them again. The record tide is 52 feet! More water pours into the bay than empties from all the rivers in the world combined. It is amazing to watch the tide come in.

The town’s shipbuilding heritage is evident in the Trinity Anglican Church. Built in 1878 it is thought to be the only church in Canada built entirely by shipwrights. Their unique handiwork is shown in the laminated arches, braces and hand-wrought ironwork so common in ships built over a century ago.

GHENT'S SITES

                                       A Lovely Ancient City

Ghent is an old city in Belgium, not the fellow who holds a door open for you. It is a lovely ancient city with much to see so I shall endeavor to tell you some of the highlights.

Cloth Hall Tower

The Cloth Hall (Lakenhalle) is a gorgeous 14^th century building. All cloth made within a mile of the boundaries of the town had to be brought to the cloth hall. Here, the textile was inspected and measured by three inspectors. The construction of the hall started in 1425 and by 1441, only 7 of the 11 planned bays had been completed.  Since the cloth trade was past its peak, it was useless to finish the building, so all work stopped, but the incomplete cloth hall served other purposes. Since 1613, the municipal fencing-school and the militia guild of Saint-Michael were installed on the first and second floor. From 1742 to 1902, the crypt served as the town jail. The remaining 4 bays were not added until 1903. Old 14^th and 15^th century textile warehouses line many of the canals.

The 91-metre-high belfry of Ghent is one of three medieval towers that overlook the old city center. Through the centuries, it has served not only as a bell tower to announce the time, but also as a fortified watchtower to announce various warnings to the town. The other two towers belong to Bavo Cathedral and St Nicholas Church.

Construction of the belfry tower began in 1313 and continued intermittently through wars, plagues and political turmoil and finally was completed in 1380. Near the end of this period the gilded dragon, brought from Bruges, assumed its place atop the tower. The uppermost parts of the building have been

rebuilt several times, in part to accommodate the growing number of bells. The primary bell in the tower, Roland, was the one used by citizens to warn of an enemy approaching or a battle won. Roland has become almost a person to the people of Belgium. He is a patriot, a hero, and a leader in all rebellion against unrighteous authority. After conquering Belgium, Charles V ordered the removal of Roland. Henry Wadsworth Longfellow referred to Roland in one of his poems.

A small annex dating from 1741, called the Mammelokker, served as the entrance and guard's quarters of the city jail that occupied part of the old cloth hall from 1742 to 1902. The name refers to the sculpture of Roman Charity poised high above the front doorway. It depicts the Roman legend of a prisoner, Cimon, who was sentenced to death by starvation, but survived thanks to his daughter Pero, a wet nurse who secretly breastfed him during her visits. Ultimately he gained his freedom

A Ghent city view

Saint Bavo Cathedral is the seat of the diocese of Ghent. The building is based upon the Chapel of St. John the Baptist. The primarily wooden structure was consecrated in 942. Traces of this original structure are evident in the cathedral's crypt. The chapel was expanded in Romanesque-style in 1038. Some traces of this phase are also evident in the crypt.  During the 14th - 16th centuries, Gothic-style expansion projects were added to the structure. A new choir, radiating chapels, expansions of the transepts, a Chapterhouse, nave aisles and a single tower western section were all added during this period, and construction was considered complete in 1569.

            In 1539, during the rebellion against Charles V, the old Abbey of St. Bavo was dissolved. Its abbot and monks became canons in a Chapter attached to what became the Church of Saint Bavo. In 1559, the church became a cathedral.

The cathedral is noted for its altarpiece, formally known as: The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb. This work is considered Van Eyck's masterpiece and one of the most important works of the early Northern Renaissance, as well as one of the greatest artistic masterpieces in Belgium. Several of the paintings were sold and went to Germany. Germans stole other panels. The Versailles Treaty required Germany to return the pilfered panels as well as the ones that had been sold.

The cathedral is huge. Lovely stain glass windows, many pieces of statuary and art as well as lots of fresh flowers made for a very pleasing experience. We stopped for some time to listen to a fellow playing the harp.

When done in the church we went across the street to see part of the ancient city wall which is below street level and now houses a small store. The wall parts were in good condition and well built.

The Town Hall in Gent is called Stadhuis in Flemish and Hotel de Ville in French. It is one of the most breath taking buildings in Ghent. A portion of the building has an ornate Gothic design while another portion, on Botermarkt Square, is built in  Renaissance style.

Ghent is a lovely city and demands a good amount of time to visit. It is very walkable. It would be worth hiring a good docent to learn much of the city’s history.